Clutch = *^%^&!@#*!@#&

[autobahnsho]

So it took me 2 days to change out the Crank Position Sensor. Finally this afternoon I'm finished, I turn the car on, nothing but magical music!

I drive around the block to make sure everything was ok before going home- it starts to shift weird (hard to get in gear) then when I push the clutch in it stays in gear..
I turn it off, park it, check the clutch self-adjust (why is there so much stuff in the way?). I couldn't see anything broken, but I wouldn't be able to tell unless it were super-obvious.
Finally I start it back up and the clutch works! Then it progressively gets harder to shift and doesn't engage again. Seems to be related to how hot the engine and/or tranny are.

So what could be the problem???????????
I was low on oil and accidentally overfilled the other day, could the seal be gone and oil is leaking onto the clutch?

I don't think I broke anything on the tranny or clutch- I was working only on the passenger side and was careful putting all the belts and crankshaft stuff back on.

I did try to start the car with the timing all messed up- didn't realize it had moved.. eek! I had to fix it and ran ok.

I haven't had ANY clutch problems on this car in the last 15 months I've owned it. It didn't go out, did it?

Thanx for any assistance.

 

[sdpatt]

Clutches don't usually just "go out." They Give lots of signals and symptoms that they are in their twilight miles. When the clutch disk wears out, the clutch will begin slipping in lighter and lighter situations. When the throwout (release) bearing (TOB) and pressure plate (PP) fingers wear out, the motion of the clutch pedal will become more coarse and higher resistence. If the clutch cannot be disengaged to allow smooth shifting, the problem is either the linkage or the TOB to PP interface.

Have you been noticing any friction, coarseness or popping when you depress the clurtch pedal? Any of these signs would indicate that the TOB and/or PP are worn and require replacement. If the motion is smooth, the problem may be with the cable.

You can check the action of the TOB by lifting the clutch pedal to release the ratchet and use a finger to rotate the quarter-round toothed section against the take up spring to put some slack in the cable. Now you can remove the cable end from the release bearing actuation lever on the transaxle. You should be able to rotate the lever easily through about 60 degrees of motion. The TOB should solidly contact the PP fingers and have very little friction as the lever is moved.

 

[autobahnsho]

Thank you, I'll try this.

I've NEVER seen any signs of Clutch failure before. (And yes I had a Datsun that had an ailing clutch and limped to the garage in 1st gear since it slipped so badly.)

I haven't done anything unusual under the steering wheel, why would the cable suddenly be messed up? Any ideas??

ps- Thanx Scott for the help on the CPS. A co-worker saw me working at the garage and said he didn't know I had "Skillz". I said that I didn't before yesterday.

 

[autobahnsho]

I was thinking more about this problem-

Why would it make a difference if the car is hot or not when the clutch doesn't work??

Sigh- I'm just hoping it's cable related.

 

[sdpatt]

Sorry, but it's more likley that it's throwout bearing or pressure plate related.

 

[autobahnsho]

Does my SHO have a hydraulic clutch?
If so, could be the fluid??

 

[shojuan]

No, the MTX SHOs use a clutch cable.

 

[AutoSHO]

I concur with Scott's assessment of the problem. If it gets progressively worse, then most likely the Throw-Out Bearing is saying goodbye. Do you get any unusual noises when the clutch is depressed?

 

[autobahnsho]

AutoSHO:
I concur with Scott's assessment of the problem. If it gets progressively worse, then most likely the Throw-Out Bearing is saying goodbye. Do you get any unusual noises when the clutch is depressed?

The only sound that's different now than before I dug into the front-side of the motor is a clicking sound that's constant with the engine speed.

Could I have messed something up in my work on the Crankshaft?? (CPS replacement)
I still don't understand why the stupid clutch was working 100% fine and then 100% broken, with no signs of wear...

I tried to mess around with it today and by pumping the clutch several times it will let me shift gears, but acts as if the clutch isn't going in all the way.

I can't figure out how I could have broken the cable or auto-adjust, but I'm checking them tomorrow w/ a guy more mechanically-inclined than myself..

 

[MO-KAN SHO]

This is a good topic.... Is there anywhere I might find decent instructions for adjusting the clutch cable? After reading this I believe my cable needs adjusted as it just doesn't shift as smoothly as it used to.

I can take a look underneath, I just thought I'd get a better idea of what I'm dealing with before I try it....

FYI... I do have a Helms manual for the car on the way, so if anything else, I'm sure it'll give me details.