clutch question

[etc1006]

Hi all! Newbie/lurker here. I'm looking at a '91. Supposedly the clutch is bad. The man says ot has trouble going into reverse. So much that he parked it. He had it to a trans shop and they told him it needed a clutch. Other wise the car is in great sahpe for the money.
I was thinking that possibly the cable is stretched or out of adjustment. I know how the quadrants can get over time... No slipping, just reverse isn't co-operative...

Thanks, Eric

 

[sideSHO]

Does it grind whentrying to go ibto reverse?May be a little odd just reverse going and all other gears good but I dunno? shrug
IF it is just reverse grinding try going into a forward gear first then hitting reverse.About everyone here has to select a forward before reverse.
Hope this helps,and WELCOME!

 

[MOSHO92]

Agreed!

Reverse gear is not syncronized. You must either select a forward gear to stop the motion of the clutch disk, or you can wait about 5 full seconds after putting in the clutch for the disk to stop by itself.

This is not a problem that can be repaired, just a quirk with all manual SHO's. thumb

 

[Dr. Tweak]

Well you have a chance take advantage of the guy thinking the clutch is bad and get that thing cheap! There's nothing wrong with it, all SHOs do that. If you had done a search you would have found 1,364 threads on it. Just go 3rd/reverse (i find that's the fastest, but a lot of people do 2nd/reverse)

 

[sdpatt]

I suspect that the owner can tell the difference between an unsynchronized reverse gear and a worn out throwout bearing and presure plate. If, after waiting more than a few seconds or selecting 2nd gear before moving the shifter towards reverse, the grinding still occurs, the clutch is not fully disengaging. Try pulling upwards on the clutch pedal with about 10 pounds of force to adjust the clutch cable tension. If this does not make any difference, the car needs a new clutch disk, pressure plate and throwout bearing. Those are all components that are replaced during a normal "clutch job." These parts can be had for less than $300, but the labor can add up if not done personally.

 

[etc1006]

I got an e-mail from the man today. I guess it's pretty bad. He said he usually has to shut it down and then put it in reverse. I'm prolly still gonna score it, he wants it to goto a good home. I have no problem doing a clutch. Now have to wait for taxes to come back and get engine hoist, too.

Thanks, Eric

 

[etc1006]

Now onto the clutch replacement itself... I've searched and found some stuff I don't understand. Wear item kit? - From SHO Shop? Quill? Felt washer? Plastic pin? I'm not real familar with this particular clutch. I'm more of a rear wheel drive Ford nut.

-Eric

 

[Bizzy]

etc1006:
Now onto the clutch replacement itself... I've searched and found some stuff I don't understand. Wear item kit? - From SHO Shop? Quill? Felt washer? Plastic pin? I'm not real familar with this particular clutch. I'm more of a rear wheel drive Ford nut.

I think you mean SHO NUT

Wear items:
Plastic bushings - there are 2, one for each area where the shift fork goes through the transmission housing. I highly suggest changing these so you'll have a smooth pedal.

Plastic pin - More than likely the nylon pin that holds the TOB in place on the fork. I believe Josh supplies those free of charge when buying a TOB. They're .39 parts.

The quill is the metal cone that the TOB rides on. Also a very necessary item to replace every time the clutch is replaced IMO.

The felt washer goes on the shift fork and rides on top of the top plastic bushing. To avoid metal to metal contact I suppose. Most trannies I've seen come in without that part.

Also good items to get are new pinch bolts and a new rear main seal. Even if the seal is not leaking it's good to replace it as the only time you can get to it is when the tranny is down.

Edit: The problem that you describe sounds like a TOB and/or PP problem to me.

<small>[ March 24, 2004, 10:04 PM: Message edited by: Bizzy ]</small>

 

[etc1006]

Bizzy:

Edit The problem that you describe sounds like a TOB and/or PP problem to me. [/QB]

Yes, the man said the shop he had it to said prolly the PP. I found a reasonable stock clutch kit. I have to call and find out what all is with it. First gotta get the car!

-Eric

 

[revhardSHO]

FYI - the felt washer has gone obsolete from ford

you can make your own from felt chair feet. I believe the size is 27.5mm X 7.5mm. Your local hardware store should have what you need

yes, the quill sleeve should be replaced but sometimes they can be very stubborn to remove - its OKAY to reuse in that case.

 

[Bizzy]

The easiest way to remove the quill is by cutting it with some heavy duty tin snips, then taking a screw driver and prying it back until it comes loose.

Yes, they can be re-used, but if you really want to do a job 100% complete, you should replace it.

Keep us posted if you have any more questions.

 

[autobahnsho]

And instead of buying a hoist check out SDPatt's homemade (wood & screws) engine lift. He's got pictures (and specs) available on a photoisland.com account.

I would HIGHLY recommend SHONut's clutch video. I watched it twice through and it made everything make sense when I started wrenching.

Keep a bunch of sandwhich baggies and a permanent marker- when you take something apart take all the screws/ nuts and put it in a bag, labelled, so you can make sure you don't loose any.

Good luck! It's really not that hard. When you're done, anyway.... While I was still working on getting rusted exhaust studs out it was more like:

headbang madflame eek! headbang

 

[etc1006]

autobahnsho:
And instead of buying a hoist check out SDPatt's homemade (wood & screws) engine lift. He's got pictures (and specs) available on a photoisland.com account.
-Sounds pretty cool. I also saw one on SHO Nut out of pipe.

I would HIGHLY recommend SHONut's clutch video. I watched it twice through and it made everything make sense when I started wrenching.

- I definetly plan on getting that with my first paycheck.

Keep a bunch of sandwhich baggies and a permanent marker- when you take something apart take all the screws/ nuts and put it in a bag, labelled, so you can make sure you don't loose any.

-definetly gonna do that, my truck driving is a 6 on 2 off schedule. So it'll be a couple week project.

Good luck! It's really not that hard. When you're done, anyway.... While I was still working on getting rusted exhaust studs out it was more like:

headbang madflame eek! headbang

_LOL! I hear you there! There a few sections of paint missing from the side of my garage!

-Eric

<small>[ March 25, 2004, 11:56 PM: Message edited by: etc1006 ]</small>

 

[DHMag]

stock replacement clutch -> Auto-Zone-$270 no core, Lifetime Guarantee. includes NEW clutch disk, NEW pressure plate, and revised TOB (quill sleeve removal required). my quill sleeve came off with a little twisting action, like i was unscrewing a bolt. the tangs gouged the quill slightly, but Scotch-Brite took care of that.

on manual transmissions of yesteryear, 2nd gear was your only synchronized gear, thats why many of us go from 2nd to reverse (myself included).

 

[sideSHO]

DHMag
Member # 2437 posted March 26, 2004 08:53 AM
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
stock replacement clutch -> Auto-Zone-$270 no core, Lifetime Guarantee. includes NEW clutch disk, NEW pressure plate, and revised TOB (quill sleeve removal required). $270? I just looked up AZ's prices and I seen it was like $400.Is there another kit I was looking at?

 

[autobahnsho]

ON AZ.com-
Shopping -> search ->
"clutch" -> click "clutch kit"

(name) (part#) (Warranty) (price)
CUMBERLAND NU0122 LLT $259.99

BECK/ARNLEY 061-6186 3 MO $397.84


I used the Cumberland kit. Comes with a new Pressure Plate, TOB, Disc, and plastic bushings for the release fork. Disc is "Valeo". (And this search was for a 1991.)

 

[Bizzy]

Valeo was the manufacturer of the stock clutch, an awesome company. I've been hearing rumors though that they are subletting the assembly to a company in China. This worries me as the labor is cheap, but the quality tends to go down as well. frown

 

[etc1006]

Hey all! I know we went through all this a couple of months ago... I just about have all my ducks in-line to pick up this car. I remember a couple of you guys PM'ing me on pricing on a clutch. Someone found a stocker even cheaper than the one I found! Please resend I can't find the info!

Thanks, Eric

 

[etc1006]

Am I correct in thinking of the quill as a bearing retainer like on the T-5 on my Mustang? Kinda helps me to understand it better!

-Eric

 

[Bizzy]

The quill sleeve is the metal piece that the TOB rides on in the bell housing. How's the job coming along?