Clutch procedure tools & time

[Zap]

After being abandoned by my help, and being ****** that my SHO has sat for so long, I've decided that I may just tackle my clutch job solo. However, I don't have many tools at my disposal (doing the other clutch I had my friend's tools), and was curious if anyone has compiled a list of tools required for doing the clutch job? I know I will at least need a metric socket set, a torque wrench, prybar, and jackstands.

Also, I'm curious what the average time has been for doing a clutch job where you actually do it, unlike what happened where Joy's car stretched out over months. I was thinking that I could possibly do the clutch over Thanksgiving break, but I don't want to leave a half-finished car at home...

Suggestions appreciated!

 

[sdpatt]

I would say that a clutch job could take an experienced mechanic approximately 8-10 hours with the proper tools and shop hardware. It could take an inexperienced, non-tool friendly individual the better part of the rest of his life. Hopefully, you should fall somewhere closer to the former case. The clutch service took me approximately 12 hours my first try after I had fabricated the engine support bracket. The transaxle service was an extra 4-6 hours on top of that. I would think that the tme would be reduced significantly on the second attempt.

Check your email for a detailed procedure to see if this is within your capability to accomplish in the allotted time. May you have a successful Thanksgiving.

<small>[ November 10, 2003, 03:21 PM: Message edited by: sdpatt ]</small>

 

[AutoSHO]

sdpatt:
I would say that a clutch job could take an experienced mechanic approximately 8-10 hours with the proper tools and shop hardware. It could take an inexperienced, non-tool friendly individual the better part of the rest of his life. Hopefully, you should fall somewhere closer to the former case. The clutch service took me approximately 12 hours my first try after I had fabricated the engine support bracket. The transaxle service was an extra 4-6 hours on top of that. I would think that the tme would be reduced significantly on the second attempt.

Check your email for a detailed procedure to see if this is within your capability to accomplish in the allotted time. May you have a successful Thanksgiving.

Scott, I'm planning to do the clutch over Thanksgiving, would you mind forwarding me that procedure? I'd appreciate it.

[email protected]

 

[Sleeper]

me too!

 

[SHOoff89]

Me three, if you don't mind.

 

[drivinhard]

I believe Josh still sells an instruction list (which includes tools/socket/wrench sizes needed) for a clutch job. These come with the clutch how to video.

www.shonutperformance.com

 

[AutoSHO]

drivinhard:
I believe Josh still sells an instruction list (which includes tools/socket/wrench sizes needed) for a clutch job. These come with the clutch how to video.

www.shonutperformance.com

Good, I ordered that too! :-D

 

[Zap]

Well... given the better than the Ford manual instructions I just received, I feel pretty confident that I should be able to accomplish the clutch job in the few days I have to do it. The only catch might be getting all of the tools, but I've done this once.. I can do it again.

Out of curiosity, would this be a good time to change my bad CID seal? From using the supports before with the engine hanging, I noticed that the CID was a bit higher up, in better reach. Then I'd have a running SHO, with a good engine, that doesn't smell like oil.. Bonus!!

 

[sdpatt]

The clutch job activities would not provide any benefit toward replacing the CID sensor.

Mails sent as requested.

 

[AutoSHO]

Thank you much Scott!

 

[Blue-By-U]

Zap, click on the SHO Nut Performance link in my sig and order the clutch replacement video. Josh drops many little hints that will make your clutch replacement easier and also suggests the parts you should replace while doing so. You'll be glad you ordered it!

 

[frosty the sho man]

Scott,

Can you email me the detailed procedure please?

[email protected]

 

[masho95]

After my last transmission removal I had the transmission out in about 3 hrs. But unfortunately I've had quite of bit of experience pulling trannies lately. As far as tools, as far as sockets go, the only ones beyond a normal metric shallow/deep set you should need is a 21mm and 15/16" deep sockets. You're going to need them to remove the nuts for the engine mounts and steering rack. Other tools not in a "normal" (big grin, because it's definitely in my set) tool set is a good engine support and an M8 or M10 bolt for attaching the chain to the rear head. I'm sure there might be a few other oddities I forgot but these came to the top of my head first. Good luck!

 

[atxxtm]

are you guys doin this on jackstands or lifts

 

[Blue-By-U]

I do all of my work on jackstands. You can perform clutch replacement procedures on jackstands, it just takes a little more time.

 

[Bizzy]

I'm in the middle of a clutch job right now, and dealing with all the rust of a northern car. it sucks. Thankfully i have the help of a friend and the use of his garage. 4 broken exhaust studs, and 2 front SF bolts rusted solid I've got 16 hours into the project and still the SF is hanging there by the 2 bolts. Hacksaw time me thinks.

On another note, get josh's video, it's really worth seeing it on the tv screen to get an idea of what you have to do. I still followed the helms to a degree but the visual input of watching the video made some things clearer to understand. Luckily the friend that is letting me use his garage had also purchased the whole video set from mark and josh.

Thankfully my Opal's tranny has been out 2 times, so it sould come out much much easier when I get to that point. But she's going to bed for the winter so that I can save for a quaife, and replace the rod and main bearings in my 3.2 that will go into her in the spring.

 

[Dave Ladely]

A pro should be able to r and r the clutch in less than 7 hours.
I highly recommend getting a better clutch/disk assembly than stock as the stock assembly is minimal; its kinda small to begin with and has a short lifespan even with judicious use.
I wound up getting a "stage II" set up, reinforced pressure plate with about 25% more pressure and a kevlar disk. Its almost like stock in use, slightly more positive, very streetable, and I expect it to last the life of the car since I am very easy on clutches, no hot rodding, no riding the clutch. I found no negatives other than increased cost, which is preferable to repeated clutch jobs. I paid about $350.00 for a SPEC set. I also bought the Fidenza aluminum flywheel, which is easier on the engine and gives the engine better response, but was another $299.00, so that would be optional in my opinion. I think ShoNut's ceramic throw out bearing would also be a very good idea, as added insurance for long life. Personally, I don't like redoing costly labor intensive projects any more often than absolutely necessary and am willing to pay a bit more initially in order to save a lot more money and hassle later.

 

[SHOoff89]

Thanks Scott for the info! You rule!