Clutch Problems

[BMWNitro11]

I just bought a '95 MTX SHO. The shifting and clutch don't seem to be right. The car has 75,000 miles on it and I don't think it was beat on much because it was owned by a older single woman. The car runs stong, but i think it has some trans/clutch problems. One thing is it seems to shift harder then it really should, the hardest being 1st. Also a problem is it grinds when going into reverse. I heard that that is a problem on these and that if you go into 5th first it helps. It does help, but not much. Also at low speed or at a stop it sometimes grinds when going into 1st and 2nd (not all the time but maybe 10% of the time). The grinding when going into reverse is bothering me the most. Please let me know if you have any ideas. Clutch or trans fluid? Thanks

<small>[ March 04, 2003, 10:20 PM: Message edited by: BMWNitro11 ]</small>

 

[Speedy_91_SHO]

I think that most of the people on this forum will agree that changing the trans fluid regularly helps a lot. It also helps if you change the type of fluid used. I have learned from the forum that since our mtx's used ATF, the ATF is not made to turn the syncros and whatnot, so most people use ATF with additives, or various syncromesh oils. The forum favorites seem to be redline and GM syncromesh, yes a GM product. You should try and contact the orig owner and ask if the clutch has ever been changed, normal maitenence been performed(oil changes, trans fluid changes, 60k, etc.) Good luck and I hope the fluid helps.

 

[Trojan Man]

Congratulations on the purchase. Treat her well and she'll do the same for you.

As far as the reverse grinding goes, all MTX SHO's have a non-synchronized reverse gear. Because of this, they will ALWAYS grind. There's no getting around it. It will help if you go into 4th first and then over into reverse. Going from 5th to reverse doesn't work so good because of the lockout. Or put it into reverse before you start it up if you know you have to back out.

I will also HIGHLY recommend GM Synchromesh transmission fluid. I put it in my own car just this weekend and it helped a lot. Much smoother shifting... be prepared though, you'll need 3 quarts, and at $10 a quart, thats 30 bux.

As far as it grinding going into 1st and 2nd, this is not normal. Check and make sure your autotensioner on the clutch pedal is working correctly. It could be that the cable is somewhat loose causing your clutch not to fully disengage. With your foot, pull up on the clutch pedal as far as you can. If it is loose, it will self tighten with a loud CLICK. If this isn't the problem you'll probably be looking at a new clutch and throw out (release) bearing.

Also, ask the previous owner if the required 60k maintenence was done. If it wasn't, save yourself a big headache down the road and do it or get it done.

These cars require a lot of attention, but if you treat them well they can be very reliable, and a **** of a lot of fun to drive.

Also, check out www.shotimes.com for a wealth of info.

-Adam

 

[BMWNitro11]

It is the original clutch, I was just wondering the life of them. I am going to do 60k mile stuff this weekend (valve lash, spark plugs, and timing belt). I will try some different trans fluid too. If anybody has anything to add to what might be good to replace while i have it on the jack stands let me know. Thanks

 

[sdpatt]

From your description, your clutch is not fully releasing from the flywheel. That is what is causing the hard shifting into first and reverse. Before doing anything else, try pulling up on the clutch pedal with about 10 pounds of force to let the self-adjusting mechanism take up any slack in the cable. If this doesn't help, your throwout bearing has likely worn well into the fingers of the pressure plate. Look here for the topic where I described my efforts in words and pictures when I spent last weekend installing a new clutch and doing a little transaxle rework. Your symptoms sounded just like mine, except for the absence of the whirring noises from the damaged parts when the clutch pedal was pressed.

 

[BMWNitro11]

From what I hear the clutch jobs on these are hard. I have done just everything there is to do on a car except anything to do with a clutch and transmission. I have always been scared to do them myself, I have always left it to the shop. I have more time then money after just buying this car. I would like to do this myself. What sort of time and difficulty am I looking at? Also what has good material on "how to" or what shop manual has the best info? Thanks again for your input.

 

[jbeano]

Get a video from SHONUT on how to change the clutch. You can't go wrong following his instructions.

http://www.shonutperformance.com/

 

[haydenm315]

BMWNitro11:
I just bought a '95 MTX SHO. The shifting and clutch don't seem to be right. The car has 75,000 miles on it and I don't think it was beat on much because it was owned by a older single woman.

Older single woman eh? I'd be wary.... I haven't found a chick that regularly checks their fluids or follows oil change schedules very well. My mom and sister are both very disrespectful when it comes to fluids. One of my best friend's gf is equally irresponsible. I think it's family related though. When I was in CA, her father asked us to check the oil in the old 200k+ toyota camry. It took 4 quarts to bring it to level. Just the night before, that car picked us up from the airport and drove a 40 mile trip with no noticeable engine noise but a flicker of the oil lamp. I'm still trying to figure out why it still runs without knocks. I drilled the hole in my mtx tranny like shotimes says. My tranny fluid was quite black. Putting in some Mobil 1 synthetic ATF made things a lot better. The tranny is a little stiff when it's below freezing and the car isn't warm. When the car is warm or the day isn't super cold, shifts are as smooth as I'd like from a rod shifter.

Changing the tranny fluid is a breeze if you drill the drain hole. Just don't drill into the transmission. I was so scared sitting under my car with the drill going through the tranny. It was definately a tense moment.

 

[sdpatt]

It is much easier and just as effective draining the MTX to remove the 13mm shift interlock bolt. The only caveat is that you don't touch the shifter from its neutral position until the bolt is Teflon taped and reinstalled.

There is a magnet inside the MTX case that can trap the ferrous particles from the gearsets, but it is not able to stop the aluminum particles from circulating after drilling through the casing. There is much less risk to the transaxle to just remove the shift interlock bolt.

 

[RStalveyARFF]

sdpatt:
It is much easier and just as effective draining the MTX to remove the 13mm shift interlock bolt. The only caveat is that you don't touch the shifter from its neutral position until the bolt is Teflon taped and reinstalled.

There is a magnet inside the MTX case that can trap the ferrous particles from the gearsets, but it is not able to stop the aluminum particles from circulating after drilling through the casing. There is much less risk to the transaxle to just remove the shift interlock bolt.

Thank you Scott! I suggested this like a year and a half ago, and everyone jumped down my throat about it. But hey, if it's there, use it right?

 

[BMWNitro11]

Is GM synchromesh OK to use in cold climates? Because it is not uncommon for it to get -20 F here.

 

[Detenator]

Im a little new at this myself
And, im also having the same hard shifting problems.
i was about to ask how to change the fluid but i guess someone just answered that question.

Ok, so i remove the old fluid by removing that bolt that you guys were talking about, but how do i locate it, and how do i make sure that it is the right one? And where do i pour in the new fluid?, IM pretty sure that there is no dipstick like the automatics have.