Clutch engagement/disengagement issues

[fricker66]

My 89 has the upgraded 9.75" clutch that was installed by the dealer in '90. We estimate that the current clutch has about 95k miles. (I failed to write down the original upgrade and Ford can't access repairs from that long ago) The issue at hand is that my clutch has a changing personality. Some weeks it will work perfectly, other times it will require extra force and double shifting to go between the gears. With each change, the engagement point of the clutch pedal changes as well. With a very low engagement, I can't shift gears without forcing the issue. I've done the manual clutch cable adjustment with no result. When the engagement is higher, I have perfect shifting.

I've read and understand that as the TOB wears out, the pressure plate no longer completely disengages from the flywheel and causes a forced shift into gear, especially 1st. However, I'm a little curious as to why my clutch is ever changing?

Either way, I'm sure it will benefit from a new clutch. Just want to make sure that I'm ready with all the needed parts as I don't have a spare car for any additional, unplanned downtime. I currently have a stock Ford clutch kit and will be ordering the wear items from SHONut along with new blocking rings for the MTX. On the flip side, if there's a simple fix that I'm not aware of, I'll be happy to postpone the clutch replacement!!!

I'm interested in hearing your thoughts!

 

[sdpatt]

Those are the telltale signs that the throwout bearing and pressure plate fingertips are quite worn and will require replacement.

 

[qiksho]

with only 98k on the tranny I wouldn't replace the blocking rings, unless you drive your car really hard...but with 80-90k on the clutch you shouldn't be too ******* it.

I was in a 92 SHO tranny that had 125k on it and the blocking rings were near perfect. They had a little wear, but a lot less than expected. I wouldn't have replaced them if I hadn't already bought the blocking rings.

 

[fricker66]

Any other thoughts on the blocking rings? If we're tearing this thing down for the clutch, I'd rather replace any of the wear items at that point. Pros/Cons? Also, any input on the SHONut ceramic TOB? Anybody have any long-term experience with one installed?

Scott I was under the impression that once the TOB/fingers wore down, it wouldn't go back to working normal. Thanks for the input.

 

[sdpatt]

The status of the blocking rings depends very much on the manner in which the transaxle was treated during shifts. If you have had many grinding shifts then they may be in need of refreshing. If you have shifted like an adult that was not trying to destroy the car as I suspect you have, then they are probably in great shape. I fall into that latter category and my blocking rings looked great after 271,000 miles. I could tell there were new ones installed after replacing them, but I wasn't getting grinding shifts before either.

 

[autobahnsho]

If you order ShoNut's video, it's a big help!

You can also replace the rear main seal, rear main carrier gasket, axle seals, and you could upgrade your Subframe bushings. You can inspect the CV Joint boots, tie-rod ends, and whatever those bars are that connect the swaybar to the strut..

Good luck!

 

[SHO--ripper]

Autobahn i think you are talking about the sway bar endlinks shrug

 

[fricker66]

Thanks for the input guys. I'm getting ready to place an order for the wear items, ceramic TOB, teflon bushing and clutch video from SHONut. I'm also thinking that new front sway bar bushings should probably be on hand as well. I recently installed the GenIII SFBs and new tie-rod ends.

Given the fact that this car has been treated well since new, I'm going to take a pass on the blocking rings.

I'll be sure to report back once this replacement is finished!!

 

[autobahnsho]

SHO--ripper:
Autobahn i think you are talking about the sway bar endlinks shrug

Thank you! I knew they had a name somewhere..