Clunking popping noise update

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SHO93OFF

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Ok not too long ago I complained about a popping clunking type noise while doing u-turns, this noise got worse and worse to the point where the sound happens anytime I turn the wheel either way, hard stoping, hard take offs, even soft take offs, over most bumps etc.. you get the idea, soo after chating with you guys I replaced both Lca's with new balljoints and bushing and a stabilizer link that wasnt looking to good. After I replaced these things the sound is still there. After stareing under the hood frustrated for a while I decided to check my power steeting fluid, and I find what looks like chocolate milk in the res. after seeing this I thought of a couple of things that ive been noticing while driving latley let me list them for you guys, maybe you can put together a diagnosis

1. steering wheel returnability issues (kinda sticks after turns)

2. Dirty P/S fluid (chocolate milk)

3. Able to adjust toe settings by hand (once nut is loose I was able to turn with my bare hands to adjust toe, I thought this was strange since special wrenches are sold for this type of adjustment, May or may not be normal iam not familier with racks)

4. With car parked and running, turning the steering wheel from left to right makes the whole front end of the car move rather than the car staying still and just the wheels moving


...... what do you guys think
 
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'94SHO

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Sounds like you need to lift the hood, and have someone turn the wheel side to side, if the engine moves, search SFB replacement..:laugh_ti:
 

ViPER1313

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Changing the power steering fluid is easy. Tools needed:

-3-4qts cheap ATX fluid
-2-3qts good ATX (forget exact type - look in owners manual)
-3-4ft of rubber hose (about garden hose sized.)
-Small bolt / tape
-Jack stands to lift front of car off the ground.
-Turkey Baster
-A friend

1. Lift up front wheels of car off ground.
2. Remove fluid from PS reservoir with a turkey baster.
3. Remove return line to PS reservoir (the smaller hose farther to the top of the tank) and connect it to the piece of hose. Put the hose into a container to catch the fluid. The hose can be hard to remove - you can use a flathead screwdriver or 2 to pry it away from the tank. Be careful not to stress the reservoir itself - its plastic!
4. Plug return hole in reservoir with bolt.
5. Turn on motor and crank wheels in air while friend poors cheap ATX into reservoir. This will power flush all the old fluid into the catch pan. Don't stop until all cheap fluid used up.
6. Reconnect return line to the reservoir and fill system in same way as above. Keep turning lock to lock to get air out of system.
7. Lower car and enjoy.

This shouldn't take more than 1hr and $25 - well worth the effort.
 

SeanMc

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I have a weird popping noise coming from the front drivers side as well. I can't find it though. I'll stop the car get out, and all the sudden here *pop*. Checked all my suspension parts, and everything is fine. So I have no clue.
 

SHO93OFF

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I havent got a chance to check if the rack is loose or not but iam wonderig how likely it is to have ur rack come loose, ever happen to any of you guys ?
 

newby92

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this happened to me in a probe gt i used to own. the popping happened in corners and popped again a short while after i got out of the car. it was a worn out end link. the sway bar actually crushed the washer/perch area and allowed the sway bar to slide up the end link. then when the pressure was taken off the wheel it would pop back to the other side. it took me two months to find because it would always pop back to the other side and i didnt really notice how bad the perch was crushed. wierd problem but it happens.
 

SHO93OFF

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Well i checked to see if the rack was loose, the 2 bolts holding it were very tight i couldnt even crack them loose. Soo now Iam thinking about the outer tie rod ends, how can i tell if their bad or not, visually they look normal.
 

SHOtimer

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How about your inner tie rod ends, when I replaced my original inners at around 140k it was an unbelievable difference...those can also pop when going bad.

Doug
 

sdpatt

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How about your inner tie rod ends, when I replaced my original inners at around 140k it was an unbelievable difference...those can also pop when going bad.

Doug

My thoughts on this matter. It sounds like you already verified that they are very loose if you were able to adjust toe-in without a wrench. The inner ball and socket should require about 10 pounds of force to move when the outer tie rod is removed from the knuckle. I think yours would drop as soon as you let go of it. They can be replaced at home with a loaned tie rod tool (auto parts store), but you will need to have the car aligned afterward.
 

Mrhappytuzi

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That sounds like what my subframe did.. I made a U-turn and heard a loud bang under my car... and then i was stuck driving in circles LOL
 

SHO93OFF

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ahh i give up, its not the strut bar,ball joints, control arm bushings or outer tie rod ends, the subframe bushings are in pretty bad shape, it could possible be the inner tie rod but i dont have the funds or means to continue messing around, soo iam pretty much waiting for something to break to know where the **** this noise is coming from, i know I sound lazy but suspension stuff can be soo frustrating
 

pjtoledo

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Wheel bearings, CV joints, tension rod cups, upper strut bearings, broken spring? Will it pop when you drive in a slow tight circle? Have someone walk beside the car to isolate which side it is. Is it one pop per turn, or does it keep popping as you round the corner?
Kick the tire, in several directions. Hit the suspension parts with a rubber coated hammer handle,(not the steel head!) Park the front tires on something slippery and start turning the steering wheel.

Item 4 is normal.

Perry
 

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