CID seal / 60k questions

[Zap]

Greetings,

The '95 is in pieces for its Front 60k, and I am curious about the removal and replacement of the CID sensor seal. I'm back at school, so I am going to be tackling the remainder of the Front 60k next weekend. In the SHOPP guide it shows 8mm bolts being removed, however my CID has much smaller bolts on it. Can anyone tell me if that is removing not only the plastic sensor piece, but the metal piece that it bolts to as well? It looks to be that way, but I want to make sure before I remove something that I shouldn't touch. (and the bolts on it are actually 8mm). That is topped by the fact that my CID sensor itself is OK but one of its tiny bolt heads is stripped (one of a few on this car, someone in the past wasn't very careful ) and I need to replace the seal.

Also, are there any suggestions for removing the water pump pulley after the belts are off? I don't have a "strap wrench" and only one of the four bolts would even budge (trying the other three resulted in me turning the engine via the WP pulley, so that was a lost cause anyway. )

I've decided that the WP isn't something I want to fail on me, and it appears that the gasket between the front and rear halves is starting to age (it feels slightly damp on the bottom side). However, my decision for whether I should replace everything or not sat on the fact that I'm a bit short on cash right now and it appears that a 60k was done on this engine in the past, including the replacement of apparently ALL front end parts!

I've never had CPS troubles so far, and I'm wondering how long it takes AutoZone to get one in. RockAuto should be delivering my WP and gasket set soon, so the only replacement part I don't have is the CPS, not to mention that it has one screw that won't budge and appears stripped. I looked at the shop manual procedure for just replacing the CPS, and it doesn't look too bad. I think the fact that I would probably be stranded is worse than having to just replace the sensor. What's the verdict on this?

Thanks!

 

[Rockledge]

If I recall correctly, the bolts securing my CID sensor were 5.5mm. You can also try a 7/32 socket on it.

IMO, you should defintely change the crank seal and crank sensor while you are in there. The CID sensor is the one I would skip if I was really short on cash.

 

[sdpatt]

There is not a "CID sensor seal," but instead, a camshaft seal that is located behind the CID sensor. To access the rear bank camshaft seal, you must remove the two 5.5mm (7/32") bolts that secure the sensor to the mounting ring, unclip the electrical connector and remove the sensor. Then remove the two 8mm bolts that secure the aluminum sensor mounting ring to the head and gently pry the ring from the head. Remove the two, Phillips headed screws that retain the sensor vane.

Now for the critical job: removal of the camshaft seal. A dedicated seal removal tool is an option, but I have used a Dremel tool to drill a small hole in which I thread a small screw so that I can pry or pull the seal out. Be very careful not to touch the camshaft with the drill bit.

To remove the water pump pulley without a strap wrench? Use a second wrench on an opposed bolt to counter the torque used to loosen the bolt.

I could say more, but I must leave now. Sorry.

 

[Dr. Tweak]

I could say more, but I must leave now. Sorry.

Are you ok? I mean, did some dude like walk into your house with a gun just now, or what?

 

[Zap]

Thanks for the feedback! I guess I shouldn't have called it the CID seal, as I knew that it was just a camshaft seal.

My problem is that one of the CID sensor bolts appears to be stripped, so I may remove the entire mounting ring with sensor, if that is possible, then get a better look (and grip) at the rounded head of the bolt.

Thanks for the excellent suggestion about the WP pulley, I am going to do just that. That is an ingenious idea, and doing that never crossed my mind.

In response to the other items, I am DEFINITELY changing the crank seal. I believe mine is leaking in addition to the exhaust and rear intake cam seals. I am still curious what brand of PVC to buy for the seal "install tools".

I am unsure if I could get a CPS in time to change it, but it was replaced previously, and I don't think that leaving it until the next time I do the 60k should be a problem. With electronic parts I really believe that quality and longevity is somewhat of a crapshoot. I could replace it and have the new one last less time than this one. I also know that there are cars out there that still have the original CPS and are pushing 200-300k. If you guys seriously think I'm crazy, please let me know. I'm not dead set against changing the seal (as I'm changing the WP preventatively too). I just don't know if I'm going to be able to get one in time and I don't want a CPS in a box to add to my excess SHO parts collection right now, as I'm short on cash.

Sooo.. If I order one, when should I have it... and where can I get a new screw for the CPS? One of the two I have now is ***** (along with the other stripped and missing bolts/screws, thanks to a PO's mechanic) and I refuse to use it again, as I know I'll be doing the next 60k and don't want to fight it again! I guess I should be thankful that they had done the maintenance, hence why my 148k SHO is in some ways better kept than Joy's 92k SHO.