CID... right?

[shoteen95]

was driving around today, car stalled mid-turn. Didnt even want to crank over at first, but i finally got it started.

Egads! The tach reads ZERO.

Now i dont imagine how it could be the CPS, I dont leak a drop of coolant out of anywhere. After running the codes i came up with a 212 (dead tach) and a 214 (CID circuit failure)

I recently changed my valve cover gaskets, and at first, i rolled the rear VC gasket without realizing...it leaked a little bit of oil, but i shut it off as soon as i saw it start to smoke. Could the oil leak have damaged the CID? or even worse, the wiring harness that runs along the very back of the engine? (not sure if that harness has anything to do with the CID wiring).

Just wanted to know if you guys agree with my assesment that i do need a CID sensor...keep in mind, it never did this before i did my little tune up job..so i'm hoping it's just the oil leak that messed with my CID.

 

[NiNeTy Fo SHO]

The CID sits right there next to the passenger side of the rear valve cover. That combined with the 214 CID circuit failure, I think you got it. When mine went it had a little bit of oil in it.

 

[SHOtimer]

I would first check the grounds (both the intake grounds and the DIS grounds)...

Doug

 

[shoteen95]

i had issues with the DIS ground after i painted the intake, i thought i had it grounded well enough after i sanded off some paint and it started up pretty well...but i'll make sure they're nice and good next time i have my intake off (which will be soon since I think some of the nuts for the secondaries arent tightened down enough...have an air leak somewhere)

I'll change the CID too just for good measure..how much are they? 40 bucks?

 

[Redline]

Yea, I think I got mine for about $35 from Schucks. Not hard to change either. You might want to unbolt the powersteering pump to give yourself more room to work, as its kinda tight in there. Sounds to me like thats your problem. These things seem to die pretty easy and your symptoms sound identical to mine when it died.

 

[Yamaha V6]

Tach has nothing to do with camshaft position sensor, it controls fuel timing. Ignition timing is based off the crank position sensor, and you can certainly have a bad crank sensor without leaking coolant.

My money's on crank sensor (or something else) rather than cam sensor.

 

[SHO#7]

I agree. When I mis-gapped my crank sensor and started the car it ran for a little bit and then lost the tach. Replaced the crank sensor with another ( that had not been chewed up ) and everything worked as it should.

Mike

 

[shoteen95]

Could a poorly grounded DIS module cause these symptoms, i've never had any trouble with stalling or a dead tach before i inadvertantly painted the grounds on the intake. I thought i had sanded down enough parts though to ground the DIS properly..i think i'll just work at it a little more next time i tear into the intake.


...i reeeeaaallly dont want to change the crank sensor

 

[shoteen95]

speak of the devil...

just tried to go somewhere..car would not start...just kept on cranking. The tach moved up a little while it was cranking..but just wouldnt fire. Backfired out of the intake a few times, almost ran (but the tach didnt move up past about 200-300 RPMS)

damn damn damn

EDIT: She started, ran it for about a minute or two, but had to keep my foot on the gas..doesnt want to idle...tach still read zero :cry:

 

[Redline]

Well it could be a cam sensor, but I still say CID. A bad CID WILL affect the tach, because my tach would die intermittently and when I replaced the CID it fixed the problem. Also, your symptoms still sound identical to mine (unless it happens when the engine is cold).

I would get bucking/stalling and then no starting and backfiring while turning over. Occasionally it would start but acted like a choking duck and would die pretty quick. Sometimes I would get a dead tach and a cel, even if the car acted like it was running ok. After I let it sit for about 5 minutes it would always start up and fun fine.

I would at least start with the CID, since it is cheaper and a lot easier to replace! I don't know about the DIS, cleaning the grounds/bolts up might be something to try also.

 

[sdpatt]

The camshaft sensor is the CID sensor, or cylinder identification sensor. Since you recently removed the intake, I would check out those intake mounting bolts, electroical connectors to the CID sensor and DIS and the ground strap that is supposed to be attached to the rear, passenger side, upper intake bracket bolt.

A poorly grounded DIS module can generate the codes for CID, CPS and SPOUT. The CID sensor is fairly simple to replace and quite inexpensive. Oil should not bother it. Check those grounds, connections and bolts.

 

[Tommy's SHO]

I had a similar problem a few weeks ago. When I restarted the engine after I fueled up it started righ up with the tach reading 0....shut it off....restarted it again with the tach reading 0 and the engine missing like crazy and the CE light staying on. Shut it off....resarted after 10 minutes worked great, tach and all. I ran the codes and got 214. I changed the CID and the car has ran well ever since.
I did not think it was it because it has only 84k on it, but you never know with these cars.
Check out this thread for instructuons
http://www.shoforum.com/showthread.php?t=47908&highlight=CID

 

[shoteen95]

thank you scott, i had been hoping that a poorly grounded DIS could be the cause for these error codes...when i think about it, the intake and the DIS ground are the only things that've changed since this started happening...i'm going to be tearing into it tomorrow, might change the CID while i'm at it for good measure..

i'll let you all know how it works out

thanks!