Cheap Strut Tower Braces

[ryana83]

Well, after the post from 1slickRED89, I tried it out. The best $25 spent on the SHO. I tried to show how it is done. I think everyone should get some of these. The car handes like it is on rails.

Front-

Left Side-

Back-

Right Side-

Left Side-

Ryan


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91 Black SHO+
Police Grill, SS Cold Air, Pulleys, Removed Silencer Cone, Ravin Mufflers, Weight Reduction

 

[SilverSHO]

Nice. I think a write-up on DIY STBs is in order

What did you use to make them?

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Nick
Lt. Titanium 90 135k
Coneless, ACCEL 8.8 stainless steel wires,
SHO Shop torque limiters, Cherry Bomb Turbo II mufflers
AIM: loudog6491

 

[hanshua]

Heres all the info in the world about installing them on a second gen... Well, except pictures.... but you got his pics... heres notes about ppl that have e-mailed me..

The parts are stb's from a Buick Regal... gmpartsdirect.com carries them

(E-Mail to Nick @ SHOnut)
"The fronts are fairly straightforward.. All that really needs to be done is to drill the mountingpoints until they fit, and then just bolt em down.. There is some issues with the washer not laying flat on the mounting tabs.. just keep this in mind when your drilling new holes. I'd say no more than 15-20 mins for the front.

The rear one is a little more complicated if you want to put it on the back side of the strut tower like I did. Its the same idea of bending the mounting tabs about 90 degrees and then mounting it about one inch from the top of the strut tower (with the parts that came w/ the STB). The olny difference is, its on the side of the strut tower thats towards the rear seat. You have to move some of the factory amps around and remount them to get the STB to fit in the back of the strut tower, but nothign major. from there line up your holes, make your marks, and drill carefully. Its probally a wise idea to use something to seal the holes after you put the bolts on. You'll probally have to jack up each side of the car at a time to be able to get your hand up in the inside of the strut tower to put the bolt on. I'd say probally 45 mins to an hour for the rear one.. I could probally do both in 45 now that I've done it once..

Good Luck, and on a side note.. these really did help handeling.. I'm able to take fast turns much faster, and steering seems more crisp.."

(E-mail to SHOforum Member)
"I sure did.... The difference is most certainly worth the $28 and the time spent to install it. The front ones arent as simple as I though they would be... I had to drill out the holes a little to get it to fit correctly, but it was much easier than the rear one...

I have a large sub box in my trunk, so I couldnt mount the rear one on the frint side of the strut towers... Instead, I mounted it on the backside, about one inch from the top... I had to move some of the amplifier from the stock system around (i mainly just bolted them on lower) to get it to fit. It took come careful bending and alot of careful drilling.. I used a metal punch and positioned it where I wanted the holes to be and tapped it with a hammer so that drilling woudl be easier from the very bad (almost sideways) position that I had to drill it from, but I just took my time, and gradualy made my holes bigger with larger bits. I then sillyconed around the holes and bolted it on... A note if you havent done this yet, you need to put the holes more towards the inside if the strut towers, because i ended up tensioning the brace on the last few screw turns...

The steering is alot more crisp, and I can take fast curves with much more confidence now.. Definatly worth the time and small amount of money. Also, the sub fits back in perfectly, just like it did w/o the brace... I like the fit.."


Long Long post, but good info for those who are looking to do this upgrade..

 

[Jibberish18]

Hi. Does it make any difference if I mount the rear on the sides of the towers like you did or would it handle better if I put them directly on top? Thanks.

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1990 Sable 3.0
"My goal is to have the ultimate Sable in road handling performance"

 

[WaterRooster]

Now when I look at that, I love the Idea, but dont feel like losing my struts in the front. I was looking the other day, I think that it might be possible to move them to a different position under the hood. Am I wrong in thinking that this can be done ?


Shawn

 

[ryana83]

Well, I saw that no way was a STB going to fit in there, the bar would just need to be bent too much. I drilled holes into the strut towers about an inch down and there were no problems except I took the tires off just in case I drilled too far. As far as handling goes, I think it should handles the same as having it mounted to the top of the strut towers. But for $25 shipped, you can't beat them.

Ryan

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91 Black SHO+
Police Grill, SS Cold Air, Pulleys, Removed Silencer Cone, Ravin Mufflers, Weight Reduction

 

[fredhurderjr]

I'm looking into the possibility of using Gen 3 hood struts on the Gen 2. I also miss my hood struts quite a bit.

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White 95 SHO MTX
"Jezebel"

Spends more time in the shop than in the driveway
Teases me with occasional great runs
3.2L SHO Shop Long Block
9psi Vortech S-Trim Supercharger (12psi on the way)
Eibachs, Tokicos, 96 Brakes, SFCs, STBs
PP Y-Pipe, Custom Stainless Cat-back, Bullets
http://members.home.com/fhurderjr/sho.htm

Mocha 91 SHO
"Monique"

Hi-Revs Jr. Clutch
SHO Shop Y-Pipe & Cat-Back
120k miles, NOT RUNNING YET (Grrrr!)

 

[1slickRED89]

thanks for posting the pics Ryan. they look good on your car. my buddy said that if you use a soft peice of plastic or wood you can scrap that sticker off, then use a gas soaked rag to remove the remaining glue.

about mounting on the top of the tower, it interfered with the 6x9 too much. gotta have tunes. what do you thing about useing two bars on the rear. one the front and like HANSUHA thought of and one on the back too. that would be mega stiff.


is there interest in ready made prop rods?


Corey
89SHO

 

[CTOESHO]

I currently have my front STB on the frong bolt (thanks tony). But I plan on moving it to the rear bolts today because i'm afraid my intake will rub against the bar when I downshift. With the front STB on the front bolts, I have less than a sliver between the bottom of my front STB and the top of my intake. I would just get something that goes over the top.

Mike
93MTX

 

[hanshua]

Originally posted by 1slickRED89:

is there interest in ready made prop rods?
Corey
89SHO

I want a prop rod... Ive been too lazy to go get one after I got my cowl hood..

As for mounting the STB on the top in the rear... Its not worth the effort.. the speakers would interfear way way too much..

As for putting it on the front or back of the tower It dosent matter. I likeed putting it on the back because I still have all my trunk space, which was esential in my case cause I have a massive subbox that woudnt fit in otherwise..

I'm not sure adding 2 STB's to the rear would be very advantageous. The first one is very, but I'm not sure the extra one would do enough to be worth it..

As for positioning the brace, you want it as far to the top of the strut tower as possible (its about 1" down from the top because of the suspension stuff on the otherside of the tower)

Oh.. and just an idea.. I cut the covers for the front strut towers to fit over the brace.. looks a little better than the bare stuff...



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-Justin

95 ATX
K&N Silencer-Coneless, SFC's, two 12" kenwoods w/ 600watt amp and sony CD, CincySHO Cowl Hood, Removed secondary silencers, TPR bushings.

Comming Attractions: New 17" wheels (need rubber for them), SS y-pipe, new springs to fix my sagging rear, 24/26mm sway bars, Strut Tower Braces, Yamaha Badges

 

[SilverSHO]

I just might do this after the first of the year. I would also try cutting out the strut tower covers to go around the bar, so it might look a little cleaner around there.

And Gen III hood struts would be a VERY good idea. I don't like the location of my hood struts, and they're a PITA when I have to stick the hood way back (don't want the hassle of taking it off and putting it back on). They fall onto the engine, usually right where I'm trying to work. Not to mention the fact that (to me) they serve about the same purpose as the spare jack. Raise the hood enough to check the oil. But they do their job well. That is a heavy-ass hood.

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Nick
Lt. Titanium 90 135k
Coneless, ACCEL 8.8 stainless steel wires,
SHO Shop torque limiters, Cherry Bomb Turbo II mufflers
AIM: loudog6491

 

[jthomas68]

Not the plastic ones

I have a $5 junkyard Mustang prop rod.Why did they make Mustangs in brown anyways?It was the only decent one i could find.

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Jeremy Thomas
Modified 91+
Pic Of The Week:

 

[D]

It might be a dumb question but would you be able to use the ones they sell at auto zone. The one near me has a little rice section now. I think they have one for a civic or acura.

 

[ThatSHOkid]

r u gonna do an exact write up? because i am interested in doiung a nice but inexpensive mod liek that. i would liek to know how exactly you did and i have a gen 2. i will probably only do front strut braces.

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1993 White/Tan SHO MTX 96k Miles
[*] Eagle Super White Headlights ** American Products Company Super White Reverse Lights ** Hibrid Double Watt Super White License Plate Lights ** Colgan Custom Bra From Cincy SHO ** Gen. 2 Font "SHO" Windshield Banner ** Superchip Performance Chip ** Blacked Out "SHO" Lettering ** Sho Shop Y Pipe ** Coneless & Boxless ** K&N Filtercharger ** Blazertech Super Clear 55w Foglights ** Ventshade Sunroof Wind Deflector & Vent Guards ** GTS Headlight Blackouts ** Sony 10 Disc Changer ** All Possible Options
[*] Coming Soon: Tinted Windows, Nook Sub Frame Connectors & Sway Bars, Front Strut Tower Braces, & A Sig Pic!
[*] The Driver: Jay/Jason/Hubes
[*] The Car: Zsa Zsa
[*] The AIM Screename: KingPin641 (I am a NESHOC member)

***"Drive it like you stole it!"***

[This message has been edited by ThatSHOkid (edited 11-29-2001).]

 

[ryana83]

Sure I'll do I write up on the STB's. I will try to contact Greg about this and he can help me set it up.

Ryan

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91 Black SHO+
Police Grill, SS Cold Air, Pulleys, Removed Silencer Cone, Ravin Mufflers, Weight Reduction

 

[waddsn1060]

Damn dude you spent $25 on that! I spent $3.96 on mine, looks better too. Ill have pics soon.

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91 BLACK MTX

DYNOED ON DYNOJET: 199.6HP, 187.1LB/FT
CENTERFORCE CLUTCH,GRIZZLY TOB, EIBACH SPRINGS,TOKICO STRUTS,BORLA CATBACK, SS Y-PIPE, SUPERCHIP,73MM MAF, BOXLESS, SVO ROD SHIFTER, FRONT AND REAR STRUT TOWER BRACES,PP MOTOR MOUNTS, CRAP TINTS, PIAA 1500XT "FOGS" Hehe, POPO GRILL,
SONY XPLOD CDX M-620 RECEIVER
Dunlop SP 5000 Asymetrical 225/55/WR16
PLATES: SHO GN 91
AIM:waddsn1060
SHOCAGO MEMBER

 

[HotBoxSHO]

Where can I buy some cheap STB's like those?

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'93 SHO ATX. Coneless and boxless, 15% tint.

 

[zach44102]

thread revival, i have been looking for hours on the internet as well as gmpartsdirect and i cannot find a regal gs stb, can anybody shed some light on this? i take it these were factory... would they be available at junkyards? i also read the same bar cn be used on the gtp's does this mean we can use the gtp bars? i would like a link to were i can find one. thank you

 

[zach44102]

i found a part number but im unsure if its the rear or front stb... part number 12456148

 

[kevinspann]

A NINE year bump?

Damn.