Cheap idler pulley came today!

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rendyx

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Only about $30 from RockAuto! It is metal, too. One question though, is a new bearing supposed to be a little slow when turned? Will it loosen up?Here it is:
idler1.jpg

idler2.jpg


I'll give it a shot when I get around to my front 60k, but it's looking promisiing so far. No more $80 pulleys! thumbs_u beer

Btw, if you want one, www.rockauto.com and look under idler pulley. I don't have their P/N anymore.

<small>[ April 03, 2003, 02:41 PM: Message edited by: rendyx ]</small>
 

Trojan Man

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Damn I paid like $73 from Ford back in the summer for mine. At least it's a simple install. Pat you can do it in like 20 minutes.
 

Mr Anonymous

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Keep us posted, BTW what's the P/N on the actual bearing?

(And yes, a new bearing will seem a little stiff at first, but once it's been up to speed for a little while it will smooth out.)
 

sdpatt

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The "stiffness" is due to the soft rubber seals grabbing the surfaces. It is a good thing.
 

Rob94

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********!!! Last time I needed an idler pulley, it was $100 from Ford. Will that work for both pulleys??
 

LaTechSHO

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i hope that is correct...but it doesn't look like it.... from the looks of it that is a standard 203 bearing ..... and at least on my car that wouldn't work..... a 203 bearing has the wrong size ID to fit the bushing in off of my current pulley..... and is too big to just run the bolt through...

like i said...i hope it works.... but somehow i doubt it..... good luck!!!

Louis
 

TYSHO

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So, did this idler pulley work or not?

I need to replace mine asap and would like to know.
 

K-Dawg

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Rendyx doesn't post here anymore. You can find him on the forums at SuperHighOutput.

From the looks of it, I don't believe it will work for the reasons that LaTechSHO said above. The ID of that bearing looks to be too small for the stock bushing.
 

TYSHO

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Yep...I found out because now he's trying to sell it!
 

sinkesho

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In regards to the idler pully, I fixed mine last summer and 27,000km ago.
I used 6904ZZ (belive it was NSK part number, not sure)
You will need two of these bearings, press them in side by side, one will stick out about 3mm, since they are 9mm wide (each) and stock bearing was 15mm wide, and it was a single bearing.
As I said, I fixed mine for $20.00 (Canadian, for two bearings), one year ago and it still works fine.
Hope this helps.
Sinke
 

TYSHO

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Well I ended up making a widely available pulley w/bearing work, and future replacement, bearing and pulley, will cost me $9.99! :****:

My SHO is 10 times quieter now! :thumb:
 

Ishodu

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sinkesho said:
In regards to the idler pully, I fixed mine last summer and 27,000km ago.
I used 6904ZZ (belive it was NSK part number, not sure)
You will need two of these bearings, press them in side by side, one will stick out about 3mm, since they are 9mm wide (each) and stock bearing was 15mm wide, and it was a single bearing.
As I said, I fixed mine for $20.00 (Canadian, for two bearings), one year ago and it still works fine.
Hope this helps.
Sinke

Are you sure it was a 6904? 69 is a pretty large bearing. I can see the 20mm bore but.
 

sinkesho

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The bearing is built by NSK, and it is 20mm ID, 37mm OD, 9mm wide and it is double sheilded, since sealed bearing I could not find back than.
As I said right now there is 3mm of bearing sticking out passed the pully since the stock bearing had same ID & OD, but it was 15mm wide.
This was the best I could do at the time, without spending any money on machining the pulley.
6904ZZ
Not to sure on what the numbers mean in this case, but I think that
6000 is the series (it is a light duty bearing)
ZZ for double sheilded bearing

By the way this is for a '92, 3.0l, with two idler pulleys
Sinke
 

Ishodu

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Actually the frist # (the 6 in this case) in the bearing is the type. 6 tells me its a single row deep groove ball bearing. The second # is the service weight. Starting at 0 (ultra light), then 1 (extra light), 2 (light) 3 (medium) and so on. Now the last two digits are the ID. You take the last 2 digits and multiply them by 5 and this will give you the bore in mm.
This is for 4 digit bearings anyway. Your right about the ZZ for Shields an 2RS would be 2 rubbing seals that may be better for the environment that the bearing is in.
 

sinkesho

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Ishodu, you are probably right.
You seem to know more about bearings that I do.
You are right about sealed bearing being a better choice. However, I could not find a bearing so slim with rubber seals at a time.
All I know is that this has lasted for about 27,000 km with no increase in noise. To me this was a gamble when I did it. I did not want to spend $100 and buy a whole assambley form Ford. If I have to replace these bearings this or next year I would do the same again.
Sinke
 

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