:woo-hoo:honestly is hard to change the CPS and waterpump on a '94 SHO? pull tire, pull fenderwell liner, remove belt, water pump hose and water pump, and cps on crank. do i need to remove the timing cover or anything else? and time of repair? thanks much!
changing water pump and CPS
- Thread starter 89SHO X2
- Start date
Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.
Yes, you need to remove the crank damper pulley and the timing belt so you can get the crank sprocket to slide out a little (you can do it without sliding the sprocket out, but you need the belt off).
How long it takes is significantly impacted by 1. if you know what you are doing, and 2. how much time you spend fighting rusted fasteners. It could take anywhere from a couple of hours to all day. Figure on 4-6 hours if you have never done it before.
How long it takes is significantly impacted by 1. if you know what you are doing, and 2. how much time you spend fighting rusted fasteners. It could take anywhere from a couple of hours to all day. Figure on 4-6 hours if you have never done it before.
ckinney89sho
fo SHO
i just did mine and it took quite awhile because of the stubborn harmonic balancer bolt. a little heat did the trick. ya you have to take timing covers, engine damper, and possibly a belt tensioner. fairly straight forward.
be careful with those timing covers they tend to break easy, my middle one broke and I went to the J/Y yesterday and they crushed the only two 3.0 SHO's out there. I was ******!!
make sure you gap the CPS correctly or you'll be down there again!!
good luck. oh ya PB Blaster
be careful with those timing covers they tend to break easy, my middle one broke and I went to the J/Y yesterday and they crushed the only two 3.0 SHO's out there. I was ******!!
make sure you gap the CPS correctly or you'll be down there again!!
good luck. oh ya PB Blaster
Last edited:
SHO_ROLLER_2
Well-Known Member
I followed this guide when I did my front 60K a couple weeks ago and it help A TON!
Make sure you have some PB blaster for rusty bolts and such. Also, make sure you have all the right tools. It makes the job go MUCH easier. And get a super long extension for your rachet. You'll need it for the rear tensioner pulley.
Follow that guide and all should go well. Do the timing belt, cam seals, and front main seal while you're at it.
BTW, it took me about 6-7 hours total. Taking everything off is very time consuming.
sho2see
sho2see
Took me and randy 6 hours.
Mind as well do your timing belt and your crank seal while you have it apart.
Mind as well do your timing belt and your crank seal while you have it apart.
i dont think the CPS is the problem with the car. i can drive it all day sometimes here and there though it just dies. and it wont start. wait about 5 min or so it starts and runs fine. i am thinking something to do with the fuel system. i know it cuts the fuel at 7400rpms or something. is there any way it could cut it randomly here and there. i dont know the fuel sys. techs on those. the pump is audible with key on 
and sounds smooth. no engine codes at all. so i dont think its sensor related. anyone have any ideas. thanks
and sounds smooth. no engine codes at all. so i dont think its sensor related. anyone have any ideas. thankshawkeye18
Sorta cares
That certainly sounds like a crank sensor to me. It is in the early stages of failure. If you don't fix it now, the time you have to wait 'til you can start it will progressively grow longer and longer...
sho2see
sho2see
Same thing mine did...changed the crank sensor and wallah, fixed.
Huntervf
Bored now
Did you ever pull codes to actually find out what's wrong? A failing CPS should most definitely set a code.
I'd be ****** if I spent all day scraping my knuckles only to find that wasn't the problem.
I'd be ****** if I spent all day scraping my knuckles only to find that wasn't the problem.
Huntervf
Bored now
Really? I'd like to speak to them. Not saying it's not possible, but of SHO problems that sometimes don't set codes, I'd rank CPS near the bottom because a loss of signal--even for a second--should trip code 211 (or 14 for gen I cars.) It's not like a MAF where a wide range of signals, even if they're a bit erratic, will appear as though it's still functioning properly.
In all the 60ks and various SHO work I've done over the years, I've never seen an actual CPS problem that didn't set a code. And considering most people do quite a bit of other maintenance when changing a CPS, I'd venture to say many of those problems that didn't set a code were actually the result of something else that was addressed during the procedure.
In all the 60ks and various SHO work I've done over the years, I've never seen an actual CPS problem that didn't set a code. And considering most people do quite a bit of other maintenance when changing a CPS, I'd venture to say many of those problems that didn't set a code were actually the result of something else that was addressed during the procedure.
Last edited:
The last 2 cps that I changed (one car wouldn't run at all, one car would die when hot) there were no codes related to cps issues. If you search the forum, you will find plenty of posts by others who have had similar experiences - I know because I did, because I was of the mistaken belief that a failing cps should set a code. Turns out that is not necessarily the case.
Similar threads
