Changing the oil

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PonySHO

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I did a search and couldn't find any discussion on oil changes. I had a '10 for 6 years and the first time I changed the oil in it, I was shocked at how dirty the oil was when I checked the dipstick after the change. I later suspected that it was from the oil left in the turbochargers. If I'm correct in that postulate, does anyone take an effort to purge any remaining oil from the engine when they change the oil?
 

PonySHO

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Well, I just changed the oil in my '15 and when I checked the level, the oil isn't dirty like it was when I changed it in the '10! Hmmmmm, maybe Ford changed something between now and then? Anybody with an early model Gen 4 seeing this?
 

SHOdded

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Same mileage (what is it)? On paper, the change is in oil weight 5W20 vs 5W30. Also, there is the redesigned valve cover to combat the PCV issue, which I am guessing is the main reason for the cleaner oil. Maybe the turbo seals are doing a better job as well?

Even between '10's, you would see differences. Some would regularly show oil in the intake/intercooler, others would be dry as a bone!
 

PonySHO

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Thanks for the info SHOdded. I changed the oil in my '10 at 3000 miles. Since the '15 is new, I changed it at 1000. I also put on a Mobil 1 oil filter right when I picked it up since they filter down to 5 mu. Now on I'll use the K&N filter. It filters down to 10 mu and is less restrictive than the Mobil 1. Sounds pretty ****, but whatever. I also noticed my '15 is full to the max line with 6 qts. My '10 needed 6.5 to fill to the max line. Maybe you're right about the turbo seals, the oil in my '10 was black as **** when I changed it. Although my '15 only had 1000 miles when I changed the oil, it wasn't that dark.
 

sanman

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What weight would you use? I want to change my oil -2015 PP with 3000 miles i live in New York was thinking Mobil 1 full syn. 5w -20
 

RAYJAY

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check your owners manual (and the oil cap on motor ) 2013 + uses 5w 30 6 quarts filter is a motorcraft fl-500s
 

sanman

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check your owners manual (and the oil cap on motor ) 2013 + uses 5w 30 6 quarts filter is a motorcraft fl-500s
Thank you for the tip should of realized to look in the owners manual.....
 

rcryniak

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check your owners manual (and the oil cap on motor ) 2013 + uses 5w 30 6 quarts filter is a motorcraft fl-500s

OK, now this is interesting. The motor hasn't changed from 2012 to 2013. Same displacement, etc., even same oil type recommended. Now, the 2012 owner's manual says 5.5 quarts 5w-30 for the SHO. The 2013 owner's manual says 6.0 quarts 5w-30 for the SHO. I just did my first oil change (the first one I've done myself) and drained it really well, put in 5.5 quarts according to the manual, and the resultant oil level was half way in the middle of the cross hatch area.

Now, as an experiment, I put in the extra 1/2 quart I had on hand, and now the level is at the full end of the cross hatch area, but below the safety notch/hole. So is 6 quarts better for the 2010-2012 then as well?? Is the full line better than midway for longevity and/or performance? Should I remove the extra 1/2 quart for optimum performance or longevity??

Any opinions?
 

SHOdded

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It's kind of each car to its' own for the 2010-12, Robb. But quite a few owners HAVE reported that 6 quarts when doing an oil/filter change gets them to the FULL mark. Also the change in viscosity was likely recommended for a) uniformity across Ford's EB lines, and b) to help make fuel dilution (fuel in oil) less problematic.

Put it what it takes to get to the full line, but don't go over. The oil needs only to be in the crosshatch area, so midway would work too, but full is best from a safety perspective.
 

Izzmo

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It's been about 8000 miles for me and I'm still waiting for the oil change light to come up. Sitting at 13% oil life remaining. Has anyone else waited this long? When I picked up the car, I changed it out the first 5k miles, but I'm testing out the light here and just waiting...
 

Sleeper4SHO

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It's been about 8000 miles for me and I'm still waiting for the oil change light to come up. Sitting at 13% oil life remaining. Has anyone else waited this long? When I picked up the car, I changed it out the first 5k miles, but I'm testing out the light here and just waiting...

oil light should come on at 10k miles...there's supposed to be a procedure that allows you to change when the light comes on but i wasn't able to get it to work.
 

Izzmo

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So, is 10k a good interval to change at when only driving 10 miles or so a week and hardly any highway driving? The manual just kind of vaguely goes over, but I feel like these newer cars don't need the 5k change as a DD.
 

Sleeper4SHO

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So, is 10k a good interval to change at when only driving 10 miles or so a week and hardly any highway driving? The manual just kind of vaguely goes over, but I feel like these newer cars don't need the 5k change as a DD.

I run Amsoil or mobile 1 full synthetic (they both say they're good for 8k-10k) but I do mine every 5k. Even with the motorcraft full syn I believe Ford maintenance schedule says every 10k. I can't bring myself to ever go 10k on a vehicle that I own (on a leased vehicle sure haha) but to each their own.
 

SHOdded

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If you are only doing 10 mi daily nonhwy, you might be better off looking at the severe duty recommendations, rather than normal duty, if you want to treat your car right. If you run full synth extended performance oil AND filter, you can change the interval to max of a year. Probably cheaper to change every six months tho with a good full synth oil and the Motorcraft filter.

The IOLM is alwaya a fallback, but won't really maximize your car's performance/life.
 

mknittel

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So, is 10k a good interval to change at when only driving 10 miles or so a week and hardly any highway driving? The manual just kind of vaguely goes over, but I feel like these newer cars don't need the 5k change as a DD.

+1 on SHOdded's comment. at 10 miles a week you are really not running long enough at operating temperature to evaporate any moisture/condensation trapped in the crank case, which the boost operated check valve on the PCV system already makes tough on our cars. You'll probably see more degradation in the oil with that kind of driving than a solid 20-30 miles daily duty.
 
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