Changed Cam sensor but still getting code 214

[SHO Nuff]

Guys,
I was getting a Code 214 with hard starting and a hesitation. The CEL would also come on for 10 - 15 seconds after accelerating then go off. I changed the Cam sensor (with a Ford one) and the hard starting and hesitation went away but I still get a Code 214 and CEL for a few seconds.
I disconnected the battery for a 1/2 hour but still get these symptoms. I also cleared the codes with my cheap scanner.
Any ideas? Could I have a bad DIS also? Don't have a problem buying one, just wished I could borrow one first to make sure that's it.

PS What are these car's going for now? 94 SHO w/ Auto. 3.2L. Green w/ tan leather. Power all. Moonroof. Horizontal surfaces on paint pretty oxidized. 127,000 miles, new tires.

Thanks.
Lou.

<small>[ May 02, 2003, 07:55 PM: Message edited by: SHO Nuff ]</small>

 

[Mr Anonymous]

Check the ground path from the DIS module, you may have an intermittent/bad connection.

 

[SHO Nuff]

SHOooo:
Check the ground path from the DIS module, you may have an intermittent/bad connection.

Is there a specific ground path/harness I should look for or just check my grounds in general?

Thanks.
Lou.

 

[Sho-N-Go]

There are the four bolts that hold it to the manifold of course. Then there are to Brackets that hold the end runner. also check the ground strap to the firewall. all are sources of problems.


Chuck

 

[rangerj]

SHONUFF,

Do a search, or just look at the posts for the past 10 days, for my response to Betty Davis fron Toronto.

I gave her the test for the EEC from the CPS, through the DIS, including the CID, over to the power pack.

The test are simple, using a LED (light emiting diod, test probe, and or a DMM (digital Multi-Meter. Do NOT USE an incandesent type probe, nor an analog (dial swing) type meter for thes tests.

Just as a point of interest, the 214 code is described as "Cylinder Identification circuit failure". The code does not automatically mean that the CID sensor is bad.

The computer sets a code because it does not get the signal it is expecting. It may not get the signal it is expecting because of a bad sensor, or a poor connection, or an open or grounded signal wire.

A little diagnostic work can save you a lot of frustration, and some $$$$$$. rangerj

Sorry to tell you to do the search, but it is a long post and it was very recent (within 10 days).

 

[SHO Nuff]

Thanks for all the help, guys. The light is off now.
My DIS module only had 3 of the 4 screws holding it in so I took it off, applied more di-electric grease, and swapped one of the screws that was missing with one on the other side since I couldn't find a screw that size. I also loosened and re-tightened the grounds at the back of the intake, firewall, and strut-tower.

Cleared the codes again and everything seems fine now.

Thanks all for the help. I also bookmarked that post you referenced, Rangerj.

Lou.

 

[rangerj]

SHO NUFF,

Go to www.eastwoods.comm. They sell all sorts of automotive restoration and repair stuff. Get a bottle of Kopper Shield (sp). It is like anti-sieze compound but is copper. It insures excellent electrical contact and conductivity.

As sensitive as these modern cars are to good grounds and conductivity, a little insurance helps alot.

I'm glad you have gotten things back up and running right.
rangerj thumb

 

[sdpatt]

Just for the record, the grease between the DIS and the intake should be heat sink grease - a thermally conductive compound to help transfer the heat from the DIS to the cooler intake. It is available from Radio Shack in the soldering supplies area.

 

[rangerj]

SDPATT,

Good catch Scott. I read it, but I went past it faster than a wind surfer in a hurricane!!! Now there's a mental image, a 100mph+ on a surf board!

SHO NUF,

The heat sink grease is important. If you have not already removed the dielectric grease and replaced it with heat sink grease, do so ASAP. rangerj