cel

[mclark]

HOPE U CAN SEE

 

[NoSlo]

Well, that's certainly not good, and they'll need to be replaced with hose.

As they are vacuum lines, though, they shouldn't be diagnosable by the initial engine-off test, which tests the electrical function and output range of sensors, sensors that allow that without a running engine.

 

[rubydist]

that is for sure going to cause you dpfe issues. I have fixed that problem in the past by slipping a piece of vacuum hose over the plastic tubing and slipping it all back together. However, you will need to be very careful as the plastic tubing is very brittle all over, not just where it currently is broken, and it will be very easy to break it in more places when you try to re-install those fittings.

I would fix that, reset codes and test again.

 

[mclark]

HEY GUYS AFTER REPAIRING THE VAC LINES , CLEARED THE CODES RAN KOEO NOW CODE 327 IS READING , I PULLED THE JUMPER TO CLEAR THE CODES RAN KOEO THE SECOND TIME STILL GETTING 327 . PULLED THE JUMPER AND REMOVED BATTERY CABLE FOR TEN MINUTES TO CLEAR THE CODES THIRD TIME RAN KOEO STILL GETTING 327 . IS THERE ANOTHER WAY TO CLEAR THE CODES .

 

[rubydist]

No, you have cleared the codes, its just that the 327 is still there. The feedback signal being low could be from a bad dpfe as suggested earlier, or a wiring issue (which are becoming more common as these cars get older) or the egr could really be stuck from the vacuum lines having been broken for a while. Unfortunately, you have some more troubleshooting to do.

 

[luigisho]

Agree. The code is erased and tripping over and over. The good news is everything has narrowed down to dpfe, egr, and wiring to it.

 

[mclark]

10-4 , WILL UPDATE WHEN TIME PERMITS , BACK ON THE BEAT .

 

[mclark]

HEY GUYS SORRY FOR THE SO LATE RESPONSE . LAST CONTACT WITH U GUYS I TALKED ABOUT THE FLASHING O/D LIGHT , WELL THE TRANY STARTED PERFORMING HARSH AND LEAKING FLUID BADLY , TOOK IT TO MR TRANS FOR SERVICE WHERE IT SAT FOR THREE WEEKS WAITING IN LINE BECAUSE THEY WERE BOOKED UP . FAST FORWARD , GOT THE CALL FOR A REBUILD . FINALLY GOT IT REPAIRED AND BACK HOME , SO I WILL UPDATE U GUYS IN A FEW DAYS . THANKS

 

[NoSlo]

HEY GUYS SORRY FOR THE SO LATE RESPONSE . LAST CONTACT WITH U GUYS I TALKED ABOUT THE FLASHING O/D LIGHT , WELL THE TRANY STARTED PERFORMING HARSH AND LEAKING FLUID BADLY , TOOK IT TO MR TRANS FOR SERVICE WHERE IT SAT FOR THREE WEEKS WAITING IN LINE BECAUSE THEY WERE BOOKED UP . FAST FORWARD , GOT THE CALL FOR A REBUILD . FINALLY GOT IT REPAIRED AND BACK HOME , SO I WILL UPDATE U GUYS IN A FEW DAYS . THANKS

"Hey boss, this guy's cooler return line was leaking and sucking air, replaced a seal and it's good." "Tell him we rebuilt it".

 

[mclark]

HEY GUYS UPDATE FROM LAST POST , BEEN DRIVING THE SHO FOR ALMOST THREE WEEKS , CEL LUMINATING, CLEARED AND PULLED THE CODES :KOEO 332,337, CLEARED CODES GOT ENGINE TO OPERATING TEMP :KOER CODES 326,521, CLEARED CODES DROVE FOR ABOUT TEN MINUTES PULLED CODES :332,521 . THAT 521 CODE A POWER STEERING PRESSURE SWITCH WILL HAVE IT CHECKED . I ALSO NOTICED THAT THE SHO IS STUMBLING WITH LIGHT THROTTLE B/T 900 AND 1500 RPM, UNDER LIGHT THROTTLE THE CEL LUMINATE EVERY TIME . THANKS

 

[luigisho]

521 is usually if you did not turn the wheel during the test. Look like egr or DPFE error

 

[mclark]

THAT STEP I DID PERFORM , HALF TURN RIGHT THEN LEFT, THANKS

 

[mclark]

Hey guys hope all had a very Merry Christmas and looking to a happy new year, we had two straight days of 20 degree weather , went out to start the SHO ,on the first day it started and fell dead every time after trying several minutes , finally got it to start after about five minutes . Second day same thing , had to hold the accelerator to keep it started , and if i released the pedal it would fall dead . No problem cranking during warmer weather . What to look for, thanks

 

[rubydist]

332 stored = egr intermittently not opening
337 stored = egr feedback signal was high
326 = egr not seating properly

So you still have the issues with either the egr valve itself or the vacuum system or wiring to it.

The issue of it not wanting to stay running when its cold may be as simple as the pcm has not learned how to control the iac valve after all your time with the vehicle down. If the iac control needs to be a lot different from the default programming, the pcm needs to "learn" how to control the iac, and in some cases this can take a long time. The idle control is, of course, a lot more critical when its cold out.

Another possibility is that you do have a significant vacuum leak relating to the egr, and that vacuum leak would also make it not idle when cold. To find that, you will need to get the engine to idle at a fast idle and then listen for whistling or whooshing sounds on or near the engine; or gently spray little bursts of starting fluid or similar and listen if the engine speed kicks up.

 

[mclark]

Thanks for the response will look into it further my next day off