Catch Can

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yaycandy

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It’s far worse in the cold weather. I don’t get nearly the amount of water during the summer months.

I noticed it in fall more in my catch can but pretty much nothing since early december when i started running Motul 300v. Once i had a half full jlt, usually its about empty at oilchange time. No clue, seems like it got better with that oil but beats me.
 

Iqoniq

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I ended up buying one for 17 bucks, and I've received it - I plan to install it in the next week. I'll be doing a write-up and video on it. I could have built one for about 10 bucks, but it wouldn't have looked very good.

SM105K, I'll probably buy one designed for the car in the future, but right now, I'd rather throw my lowering springs into the mix than spend it on that in particular. Looking at this can, really, I think the real upgrade would be going to the three-line setup, and that will most likely be the one I upgrade to.
 

aaron240

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No sure what you mean about building for a fraction of the price. I bought a universal baffled one for around $30, bought braided line for about $15 and ran it, it even has a drain valve on the bottom so i don't have to unscrew anything. But if you can make one for less than that go for it!
Do you have a parts list for your home built one that you pieced together?
 

Shotech3.5

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Is there a good reason to buy the catch cans out there for this car, instead of building my own for a fraction of the price?
Yes, unless you can add two check valves to the can to make it actually function. You need to have a source of vacuum to the catch can in order to make it work. Under idle speed there is vacuum through the intake manifold behind the throttle body so there’s one check valve that has a vacuum source until you get into boost and the intake manifold is pressurized then there’s no vacuum source. Under full throttle is when you’ll get the most oil out of your PCV system since there is a lot more blow by gases under boost. You’ll need to run the second check valve right before the front turbo’s intake. There is a quick connect fitting near the air box. That will give a vacuum source under boost conditions. Basically what the whole point of this reply is catch cans are great but if you want it to actually work it must have a vacuum source and one these Ecoboost engines you need to have one for idle and one for when you have boost.
 

jman1200

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Is there a write up somewhere (with pics) about how to install these?
 

SM105K

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Yes, unless you can add two check valves to the can to make it actually function. You need to have a source of vacuum to the catch can in order to make it work. Under idle speed there is vacuum through the intake manifold behind the throttle body so there’s one check valve that has a vacuum source until you get into boost and the intake manifold is pressurized then there’s no vacuum source. Under full throttle is when you’ll get the most oil out of your PCV system since there is a lot more blow by gases under boost. You’ll need to run the second check valve right before the front turbo’s intake. There is a quick connect fitting near the air box. That will give a vacuum source under boost conditions. Basically what the whole point of this reply is catch cans are great but if you want it to actually work it must have a vacuum source and one these Ecoboost engines you need to have one for idle and one for when you have boost.

This is exactly why I say to buy the one that is engineered for our application. These cars need a catch can. There is a reason why so many people recommend them. The gunky intakes valves of the DI motors is another reason why major manufacturers went to a port and di set up now.

When modding my SHO I knew the problem, and a CC was the second engine mod/upgrade I did after VTA my BOV's. I have changed my oil religiously every 3K miles since owning my SHO. Each time I pull out between 2 to 3 ounces of crap out of my CC. In 8 oil changes at 2.5 oz a pop....that is 20 oz of crap that could have been pushed into my intercooler, cold side pipes, TB and then onto the valves.....
 

Iqoniq

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Yes, unless you can add two check valves to the can to make it actually function. You need to have a source of vacuum to the catch can in order to make it work. Under idle speed there is vacuum through the intake manifold behind the throttle body so there’s one check valve that has a vacuum source until you get into boost and the intake manifold is pressurized then there’s no vacuum source. Under full throttle is when you’ll get the most oil out of your PCV system since there is a lot more blow by gases under boost. You’ll need to run the second check valve right before the front turbo’s intake. There is a quick connect fitting near the air box. That will give a vacuum source under boost conditions. Basically what the whole point of this reply is catch cans are great but if you want it to actually work it must have a vacuum source and one these Ecoboost engines you need to have one for idle and one for when you have boost.

Ok, I will look into check valves, but first, I want to make sure I understand the dilemma.

There's not one constant vacuum. Instead, there's boost, and non-boost. So I need a Y-fitting on the exit side of the can, and then check valves for two hoses, one to the intake manifold, and one to the the front turbo's intake. That way, I will constantly suck air out of the crankcase.

That cover it? Does the check valve's spring need to have a particular strength? Or perhaps the ball type would be better, having fewer moving parts.
 

mybigsho

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Just wondering if anybody running a upr can has gotten a cel??? Mine comes on after a few engine cycles..
Went over everything seems to be installed correctly..
Thanks Scott.
 

SM105K

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Just wondering if anybody running a upr can has gotten a cel??? Mine comes on after a few engine cycles..
Went over everything seems to be installed correctly..
Thanks Scott.
I have never had a CEL, however I have a stock air box and connection. You are 100% your check valves are pointing the correct way.
 

mybigsho

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I have never had a CEL, however I have a stock air box and connection. You are 100% your check valves are pointing the correct way.
I put my stock air box back in arrows face away from canister as per upr.. I can't understand
why..
 

SM105K

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I put my stock air box back in arrows face away from canister as per upr.. I can't understand
why..
Did you buy the 2015 and up CC? Or did you buy the 10-14 CC?
 

StealBlueSho

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Just wondering if anybody running a upr can has gotten a cel??? Mine comes on after a few engine cycles..
Went over everything seems to be installed correctly..
Thanks Scott.

I’m not at my computer, but what year is your SHO? There is a sensor that plugs into the PCV tube that goes from the intake pipe to the connector next to the oil cap on the 2013+ iirc... the UPR kit replaces that line without sensor. It will need to be tuned out by your tuner if that is the case.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

mybigsho

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So i just called UPR and talked to steve.. I think i have the wrong dirty line hooked up.. Should not have
the valve.. That goes to the intake.. Stupid me..
 

SM105K

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So i just called UPR and talked to steve.. I think i have the wrong dirty line hooked up.. Should not have
the valve.. That goes to the intake.. Stupid me..
It is usually something as simple as that. Another member on this forum messaged me in a panic. He installed the CC and his car started smoking. We figured he had the intake line on backwards. He flipped the line and everything is perfect.

It happens bro. Hopefully yours is fixed now.
 

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