Car is doing weird stuff, then dropping dead.

[CALL AAA]

I had a weird thing happen today. I pulled out of a parking lot, and my wife (later) said that the climate control went blank for a second. (I didn't see it) A few miles later, the idle became sort of erratic, even more so, every time I tapped the brakes. All I had to do was touch the brake pedal, and the tach would jump a little, drop below normal and then quickly recover. The way I first noticed this is from my intake gasping, which actually makes more noise than the holes in my exhaust do. (cone filter)
Anyways, after about 15 or so gasps, I was at a stoplight, and the engine bogged, and as the engine died, the tach went to 8K and stayed there. And ALL the power went out, like the battery had been disconnected.
I waited one full light cycle, and voile! (with an accent on the E) It ran fine, all the way home.
The crankshaft posit sensor is only about 4 months old, so I hope it's not that.
Anyone want to hazard a guess? (I'm almost positive that I forgot a major peice of the puzzle, so stand by for an update)
Thanks a lot,

 

[CALL AAA]

I remembered the other thing. I have a factory alarm, and it has been going off for no reason. even when I lock the doors from the switch inside the door, and NOT set the alarm.
Maybe this will help, or maybe I have a second problem.
Thanks,

 

[twr]

I recall reading somewhere that (your description) is the alternator going bad.
Terry

 

[SHO M0nk3y]

alternator going bad

i think it is the alternator also. the samething happened to my dads truck

 

[sdpatt]

Those sound like the symptoms of a low voltage condition or intermittent connection to the battery. When the CPS goes, it just goes. Instantly.

 

[93nighthawk]

I had the same symptoms when my alt. was going. Does the alt light barely glow on and off at idle (it is sometimes hard to see because it can be faint). I would also check the connections to the battery.

Eric

 

[SHOMA]

dude,I agree, I think its your alternator..... thats not a bad job in our car's, I know we have a guy in MA that rebuilds alternators and starters for approx $30-$40.... GOOD LUCK, let me know what you find!
Kevin

 

[enttim]

I would agree with these fellas, on most cars that run an ECM when it drops below 9VDC the computer will shut off because the processors minmum voltage requirements is 9VDC. One thing to check easily is with a voltmeter. Red on positive black on negative. During normal idle with no accessories on it will be some where between 13 and 14.5 volts. Have some one turn on the head lights or even the ac and you should see a momentary drop then the altinator will kick in to sustain the 12vdc of the battery. The volt meter should climb to 14-14.5 vdc if it does not or if you see the battery drop near 9vdc or see a consistant loss of voltage than the voltage regulator is going.

 

[RStalveyARFF]

another way to check is have someone in the car with it off. Put a voltmeter to the battery and it should read 12vdc. Then have the helper start the car, and make sure the voltmeter has a 2volt jump.

 

[CALL AAA]

OK, the battery seems to be fine. I got the 2 volt jump and everything. Exactly where do I go with the prongs of the multimeter to check the alternator....if i can do it?
I still need to check some connections, but I have had no problems ith it since Friday.
Weird.
Thanks, all.