Car dies while driving then occasional no start

[haggarSHO]

Alright so tonight I was cruising back to my house at 55mph, when i notice a little ****, I look down and my tach is at 0 rpms and my CEL is on. So I try to give the throttle a few chugs to kick it back to life, I notice when i do, I can hear the engine rev, not very high, 2500 max, and when i give it throttle again, it revs a little lower, and this continues about 3 more times until the engine completely shuts off. I cruise into the nearest gas station, put her in park and she fires right back up and i drive home with no problems.

The dying issue has happened before, usually she'll start back up, sometimes it takes a few cranks. And occasionally after a drive and she doesnt sit long she wont start (has happened twice) got stranded at a best buy at 7:30 pm, tried a few things to get it started (reset the emergency fuel cut off valve, and i tried to bang on the gas tank to knock on the fuel pump.) but to no avail. Went back at midnight and it cranked right up.

I dont have any codes right now but any ideas?
I dont think it's the CPS as ive dealt with the CPS in my 91 and the symptoms are just different and also im about 80% sure the tach ****** when i tried to crank it at best buy.
I'm thinking either maybe the fuel pump (i can hear it prime) or maybe a wiring issue with the emergency fuel cut off in the trunk.

 

[Storm-Chaser]

Unless you disengaged the clutch and held the pedal down for several seconds, you should still have some "residual" rpms (ie. > 0 rpms).

There are several things it could be, but better information on the tach reading as soon as it "dies", what the CEL code was for (if the light came on, you should have at least a stored CM code), fuel pressure at the rail, how much gas was in the tank, etc. - would help.

 

[haggarSHO]

Unless you disengaged the clutch and held the pedal down for several seconds, you should still have some "residual" rpms (ie. > 0 rpms).

There are several things it could be, but better information on the tach reading as soon as it "dies", what the CEL code was for (if the light came on, you should have at least a stored CM code), fuel pressure at the rail, how much gas was in the tank, etc. - would help.

Well it's an ATX so. Also there was and still is half a tank of gas.

the tach reading as it "dies" is it just falls to 0 and doesnt move at all.
I just pulled my codes and this is what i got:

KOEO:
335 (O) EGR feedback signal is/was out of range - EVR or PFE
Stored:
211 (M) Ignition PIP signal was erratic or missing - Ignition Systems
542 (O,M) Fuel pump open, bad ground or always on - - Power / Fuel Pump Circuits - would this be the reason my car's dieing randomly?

KOER:
411 (R) Idle speed system not controlling idle properly (generally idle too high) - ISC
538 (R) System did not receive "goose" test (i have no idea what this means)

 

[haggarSHO]

anybody? please?

 

[Storm-Chaser]

No, it's the 211 code. The 542 code can be "tripped" by several other faults.

Do a simple search on the 211 code and you'll see the symptoms you've described are commonly associated with this fault.

 

[hawkeye18]

It's a crank sensor. They can fail in a few different ways (i.e. cause different symptoms), but the "car shuts off and won't start 'til later" is classic crank sensor.

If you're going fast enough that the TQ is locked, you will retain RPMs from windmilling, but if the clutch is unlocked you're SOL for trying to get the engine back to life immediately.

I had these exact same symptoms, including the 211, in my 94 ATX. New crank sensor fixed it. As for the rest of the codes:

335 = your EGR system is messed up. Probably a clogged tube. Not a big deal.
211 = bad CKP (PIP = crank sensor)
542 = the car died. This code gets set whenever the car stalls (i.e. because of a bad crank sensor).
411 = either clean or replace your idle air controller. Have you noticed a wonky idle?
538 = while doing the KOER test, after the CEL beeps once, you're supposed to floor it for a second ('goose' the throttle). This code simply means you either failed to goose the throttle, or didn't goose it hard enough. You need to stomp the pedal to the floor, then let off.

 

[sold my soul]

or it could be a loose comection on the battery i know from expieriance

 

[shoshirtsandhat]

I had the same problem in my 94**ATX.. CRANK sensor was shot...Fix yours and let us know...Joe

 

[sold my soul]

im sorry man i am having the same problem with my mtx when i turn my ac on.

 

[rct_19903]

I have a 92 mtx with the same symptoms. We sent it to a mechanic who couldn't get it to act up, but pulled these codes 219, 452, 528, 542.

We dropped the tank, having heard that it may be related to garbage in the tank, only to find the tank perfectly clean. While we had it out we replaced the fuel pump.

The symptoms have been much less frequent, but it still has the occasional rough start, and I am worried about the highway dying as I have to drive 600 miles back to school next week. Any hints would be greatly appreciated.

Keith

 

[hawkeye18]

219 = Spark timing defaulted to 10 degrees, spark output circuit open.
452 = Insufficient input from VSS.
528 = Clutch Pedal Position switch circuit failure.
542 = Fuel pump circuit open, EEC processor to motor ground. (just means you stalled the car at one point)

You need to clear these codes and see if they come back. VSS codes can be caused by intermittently bad wiring... or a bad VSS. the 528 sounds like operator error during the test.

The 219 is harder to troubleshoot. It could be as simple as that the SPOUT plug got pulled - or the associated wiring opened up. Or, it could be indicative of more sinister EEC or DIS failures.