Car dies while driving..now wont start. Advice please?

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93ATXChris

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I have a 93 atx with 195k on the engine

My car has been stalling out lately because of bad o2 sensors but the other night it died on me while driving . Tried to start it, but would'nt roll over.

I tried to pull the codes with no success, i've done it a million times but now nothing. I did measure and found power at the eec though.

I also checked and the red button on inertia switch it was still pressed in, but there was no power on either sides of the switch. I had the eec fuel pump slot grounded aswell.

Any Advice? I read something about a fuse for the fuel pump?
 

HoustinoJillian

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whats "a little rough" like cps going out rough? cause that could cause it to die while driving and not restart too
 

93ATXChris

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when i had my car stopped and running the rpms jump up and down kinda like bad o2's.

I'm not sure what a car runs like with a bad cps though. I did have my waterpump replaced at a ford dealer can't remember if i had the cps changed.

Would a bad cps stop a fuel pump from coming on?

I can't figure out why my KOEO isn't working either, car in neutral, jumper the pins then turn key. Any ideas?
 

NiNeTy Fo SHO

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Do you hear the fuel pump priming when turning the key to the on position?

Why put it in neutral when running codes? I always left my ATX's in park, just got to turn the key to the on position and let it do its thing. (with the wire jumpered)

Have you tried pumping the gas pedal and or holding it WOT while cranking? Is it cranking at all? Does it sound like its trying to start? When does it stall, when on the gas, rolling to a stop, etc?


When the IAB/IAC goes out, it didnt throw any codes for me, the car would stall after pressing in the clutch coming to a stop and not start unless I pumped/held the gas at WOT when cranking b/c no air got into the engine. Not saying that this is your problem, but a possibility.
 

93ATXChris

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Thanks for the reply

No i don't hear the fuel pump priming when i turn the key to on position, and the inertia switch in the trunk isn't getting power at all.

Yeah i made sure the procedure for the koeo was right, its frustrating because i've done it so many times now its not working.

It cranks and cranks but doesn't turn over. The car only stalls when i come to a stop not while i'm driving, and when it does the rpms dip below 700 then jump over 1k rpm.

When the car died it just flat out died, didn't bog down or give any indication it was going to die.

Right now i need to know why my inertia switch isn't getting power. Does that connection relay in that IRCM?

I know its a pink and black cable going into the switch in the trunk, but don't know what color it is going into the IRCM.
 

93ATXChris

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No, although i didn't check the thermo when it broke down the car had only been running for about 15 minutes.

If it is the CPS is there a way to check, also would this effect power not getting to the switch in the trunk?
 

NiNeTy Fo SHO

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93ATXChris said:
Thanks for the reply

No i don't hear the fuel pump priming when i turn the key to on position, and the inertia switch in the trunk isn't getting power at all.

Yeah i made sure the procedure for the koeo was right, its frustrating because i've done it so many times now its not working.

It cranks and cranks but doesn't turn over. The car only stalls when i come to a stop not while i'm driving, and when it does the rpms dip below 700 then jump over 1k rpm.

When the car died it just flat out died, didn't bog down or give any indication it was going to die.

Right now i need to know why my inertia switch isn't getting power. Does that connection relay in that IRCM?

I know its a pink and black cable going into the switch in the trunk, but don't know what color it is going into the IRCM.


If it only dies while your coming to a stop (aka not on the gas) then to me this would be a good sign of the IAB/IAC valve going out. The IAB/IAC valve just controls the idle (idle air control valve or idle air bypass valve).

It doesnt make sense that you have no juice at the inertia switch though...so it could be something besides the IAB. The only way I would know for sure is to pump the gas pedal and/or hold it down while cranking to see if the car fires.

The IAB and something else (CPS) could have gone south at roughly the same time. The IAB tends to slowly go out...it stops working intermittently. Car stalls...then runs fine...then stalls when stopping another time...then not starting until it finally just doesnt work anymore.
 

93ATXChris

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Yeah i need to find where that pink black cord comes from, the wire that goes into the switch.

I tried pumping the gas pedal while cranking but didn't get a response. I'll try it tomarrow again though just to be sure.
 

ohfosho

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im going to go ahead and stab...have you checked all your fuses? all in relation to the ECU and fuel pump...there has to be a reason that you cant pull any codes, even the pass codes (are you sure that you are doing it correctly?), and that your fuel pump is not going.



i was going to state that i just had my VSS (on the tranny), replaced, and that solved my stalling on the go when warmed up, and no starts till cooled down, and shifty auto shift points issues. (i pulled my codes and got one for a malfunctioning VSS too though...) however, you have no fuel pumping, so start with the obvious!
 

projectSHO89

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You have a problem related to the computer, the CCRM (relay box), or power going to same.

For now, ignore the suggestions relating to the IAB, CPS, etc.

Steve
 

93ATXChris

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Ok so i opened up the chiltons manual and found that there is a -pcm relay/fuel pump fuse 30a. If i read the diagram right its a yellow wire that comes off the Powertrain control module (PCM).

Is this fuse in the power distribution box? (driver side firewall) Is the relay box the same thing?
 

93ATXChris

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Checked fuses all good.

Why wouldn't my Koeo test work? I'm 100% positive that i did it correctly.

Could this problem be why my fuel pump is not getting power?

Is there something wrong with my computer, it's behind the glove box right? Anyway i could check this?

4 days down without a car starting to become a hassle not even being able to diagnose the problem. :frown:
 

Bryan C. King

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Without really reading into this thread that much I'd say check your CPS. If you are not getting a signal from the crank I think you won't get a signal to the fuel pump.......
 

Jason Bowles

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correct way to do KOEO is:

Make sure key is off. Connect the ODB tester. Turn key to on position without starting turn ODB tester on hit test. You should hear the test sequence start the fan. If you dont then your not doing it right (or your electrical system is fouled up).

Another guy had a similar problem with running the KOEO, and he checked the electrical harness going to the computer and found that the wires connected to the plug were falling out. JUST A THOUGHT.

As for it dying, if you fix the problem with the fuel pump and it still wont start it's either the CPS if it doesnt start at all, or the VSS if it starts up but the idle drops rapidly and dies.
 

etc1006

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Couple more ideas. If your using the $20 SunPro, make sure the blades aren't pushing into the unit. I've had one of these for YEARS. And one of the blades started to push in. Also, like mentioned check the pins in the test block, esp. the single one, for some reason this one gets especially cruddy. Take a small piece of fine sand paper and stick it in the connector where the pins are tto maybe clean 'em up a bit, too.

HTH, Eric
 

ohfosho

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do you get the fans starting up when you try the ECU test? but then no fuel pump prime? i think that it is a computor related problem. i would try a different battary...they can play dirty tricks when dying. if you have money, and have had it with working out electrical gremlins, take it to a known auto electric shop.
 

93ATXChris

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When do i put in neutral? But yeah i remember the test, first thing i hear is fuel pump then the radiator fan goes...

The eec terminals are getting power, but i haven't checked the computer.

Jason Bowles said:
correct way to do KOEO is:

Make sure key is off. Connect the ODB tester. Turn key to on position without starting turn ODB tester on hit test. You should hear the test sequence start the fan. If you dont then your not doing it right (or your electrical system is fouled up).

Another guy had a similar problem with running the KOEO, and he checked the electrical harness going to the computer and found that the wires connected to the plug were falling out. JUST A THOUGHT.

As for it dying, if you fix the problem with the fuel pump and it still wont start it's either the CPS if it doesnt start at all, or the VSS if it starts up but the idle drops rapidly and dies.
 

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