Car dies when: turning, accelerating, over bumps! HELP!

[tmielnichuk]

OK,

1989 MTX SHO. Tons of new parts, most recent is a new starter solenoid (from ford) to fix the stalling problem. The car loses all electrical power whenever I hit a bump, go around a corner, or accelerate from a dead stop.

The radio retains it's settings so it is not a probelm at the battery end? Is this a short some-where? I'm assuming it's on the ground side of the system somewhere? What the **** is going on? I can't drive it safely with this condition. I get ZERO electrical when it cuts out and the engine dies (of course).

Any gurus have a system layout of the electrics on this car??? Where should I start looking? I'd hate thave to check the entire wiring harness.

No CE and no codes.

Tyler

 

[tmielnichuk]

Additional info...

I did a shak\wiggle\jiggle\smack it around test with the engine running and couldn't duplicate the problem. As soon as I give it throttle (in gear) and let out the clutch it dies.

New ECU and ECRM installed about a month ago, no probs until the last couple weeks or so. Could that be the problem? I'm stumped!

Here is what I've done so far for recent parts:
ECU
IRCM
Throttle position sensor
Water Pump
Crank position sensor (couple yeas ago)
Water temp senders (both of them)
Fuel Pump
Fuel Filter
Alternator
starter motor
starter solenoid
both battery wires and terminals
plugs
wires
valve cover gaskets and plug well seals
IAB
probably some other little things that I can't remember.

 

[THO]

Just a thought, but you might try the clutch safety/interlock. I saw this on a GM once, the clutch safety got worn out and would cause the car to die.


edit: Never mind, thats starter control only. might check the grounds from the ECU....

 

[Mr Anonymous]

Check your rear DIS connection. I wonder if you have a bad motor mount which is causing the DIS/connector to hit the roll damper bracket and an intermittent loss of power to the DIS.

 

[tmielnichuk]

I did notice that when sitting still, engine running, I can turn the steering wheel and the motor looks like it moves (side to side) too. Is this normal? The motor doesn't move much when I rev the engine, only when I turn the wheel side to side.

the Dis appears to be alright, where abouts should I check? Right at the intake or below that?

I need to track this gremlin down soon!

Thanks guys!

 

[projectSHO89]

I did notice that when sitting still, engine running, I can turn the steering wheel and the motor looks like it moves (side to side) too. Is this normal? The motor doesn't move much when I rev the engine, only when I turn the wheel side to side.

the Dis appears to be alright, where abouts should I check? Right at the intake or below that?

I need to track this gremlin down soon!

Thanks guys!

The side to side movement is due to your rear subframe bushings having all the support of a Krispy Kreme donut. Time for new SFBs.

Look to see if the rear connector on the DIS makes contact with the roll dampener. If so, bad motor mount or gross failure of the passenger side SFB bolt. Test the motor mounts by setting the e-brake, then watching the engine for any rolling movement when gently releasing the clutch in first and in reverse. A bad mm will alow the engine to rise when the torque is applied.

I would focus on the large electrical leads from the battery to ground and to the starter relay. One of them is opening up under any kind of mechanical strain.

Steve

 

[Bizzy]

Check the following connections:

Computer ground - passenger side fender well near battery

Battery terminals, especially if you've put on aftermarket terminals. Not only make sure they are tight on the terminals but also tight where they clamp onto the cables.

If you have the OEM cables, check where the little wire feeds into the lugs. Make sure that they are not breaking off.

Check and clean the two above if need be.

Check the connections to your starter, both positive and negative leads.

Check the connections at the starter relay.

You might also check that the EEC and IRCM are both snugly bolted in place.

 

[tmielnichuk]

The side to side movement is due to your rear subframe bushings having all the support of a Krispy Kreme donut. Time for new SFBs.

Look to see if the rear connector on the DIS makes contact with the roll dampener. If so, bad motor mount or gross failure of the passenger side SFB bolt.

So if I replace the SFB's (and the motor isn't slopping from side to side) the problem should be fixed?

I checked all the connections and I can't see anything loose or in contact with anything wrong.

It definately fails when turning to the left (the motor moves to the right???) what should I be looking for?

 

[Bizzy]

So if I replace the SFB's (and the motor isn't slopping from side to side) the problem should be fixed?

I checked all the connections and I can't see anything loose or in contact with anything wrong.

It definately fails when turning to the left (the motor moves to the right???) what should I be looking for?

If you replace the SFB the movement of the motor will be fixed.

Wiring problems are hard to find, trust me, I'm in your shoes right now and have been for a month now. To me it sounds like the problem is a short because the car will run but dies when things are moving around in the engine bay like when you turn, etc.

 

[projectSHO89]

To me it sounds like the problem is a short ....

A SHORT will cause smoke, fire, heat, and blown fuses and breakers.

He has an OPEN CIRCUIT which is the exact opposite. Under open circuit circumstances, stuff just stops working.

When that motor moves around, a connection or conductor is being opened intermittently.

Steve

 

[tmielnichuk]

A SHORT will cause smoke, fire, heat, and blown fuses and breakers.

He has an OPEN CIRCUIT which is the exact opposite. Under open circuit circumstances, stuff just stops working.

When that motor moves around, a connection or conductor is being opened intermittently.

Steve, You are right again!

Any idea on cost\availability of new SFBs?

I'd like the Police ones if possible or even the solid ones? Ford only for the police I'm assuming? Are they still available? How long to wait and what cost are the aluminum ones from SHO-Shop or likewise? Looks like this is the only way to get the car up to *****.

I'm assuming the open circuit problem is directly related to the ***** SFBs and will be recified when the motor is stable again?

 

[projectSHO89]

I used the Gen III SFBs on all four corners. Total cost was around $80 or so for parts. You can get aluminum ones for not much more.

Replacement of the the SFBs will keep the engine from moving around. Chances are, the intermittent open circuit condition, if not found and repaired, will come back at a very inopportune time. The harness has been flexed to the point that something has broken, probably inside of the wiring insulation. I would concentrate on reparing this condition now, before replacing the the SFBs as the condition is relatively easy to induce.

Steve

 

[Bizzy]

A SHORT will cause smoke, fire, heat, and blown fuses and breakers.

He has an OPEN CIRCUIT which is the exact opposite. Under open circuit circumstances, stuff just stops working.

When that motor moves around, a connection or conductor is being opened intermittently.

Steve

Very sorry my thoughts were not relayed properly. I typed the wrong word.

 

[AREA 91]

Aluminum SFB's are well worth there $. Better handeling!