Cant get the rear strut off :ohreally:

Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.

RuttyRut

New Member
Joined
Sep 14, 2010
Messages
9
Reaction score
0
Location
Charlotte
Ok, first time changing struts on a SHO (i've done it before on my other rides). I managed to get all of the bolts loose with minimal elbow grease. Nothing snapped or broke. Lucky me.

There is nothing left holding the strut on the knuckle. All afternoon working on it and I can't get the strut off ... rusted?? I soaked everything but the disk with WD and loosely buttoned everything up till tomorrow.

Any worth while advice and I'd be much obliged?

-Rut
 

Rubix

SHO Member
Joined
Jan 12, 2005
Messages
1,329
Reaction score
858
I've done this...

After loosening and lubing everything, I banged on the knuckle like **** to slide it down the strut with a big, heavy, hammer that was my grandfather's. I also used my largest flathead to spread the knuckle apart. Honestly, once I had the pinch bolt loose the knuckle was open enough to slide a little bit without having to bang. By the way, leave the strut bolted into the tower by the top three nuts. Break them loose but do not remove them until the knuckle is off. Anyway, slide the knuckle down as far as you can with a hammer. Now it's pry time. Use the longest, strongest thing you have (I was able to get by with a 3 ft crowbar) and pry the knuckle down. I stuck the end of the crowbar against the underside of the frame and across the knuckle where the brake caliper bolts on (I removed my calipers btw, I needed to service the slider pins anyway). I then stood on the crowbar which slid the knuckle down a little further. I was about an inch away from freedom with seemingly no more room. What now? I slid my jack under and used a small ( I would estimate about 14-16 inches long), but sturdy, 2x4 placed between the bottom of the jack and the underside of the endlink mount on the strut and jacked the strut up about an inch or two. This can be dangerous so be careful. Position the jack so the strut will not move in any direction other than straight up or it can snap out. Once raised a little bit, I was able to gently pry (using my previously mentioned crowbar method) the knuckle off the strut without causing the strut to move, which result in it snapping out. I then lower the jack and thus the strut and pull the jack out. Things to note at this point, freedom! However, if you still have the LCA's and strut rod attached the knuckle and the strut will be "bothering" each other. Simply push the knuckle down out of the way, if you have a helper, while you go up and remove the three bolts holding the strut in. I did this alone so I rested something moderately heavy across the LCA's to hold the knuckle down while I removed the strut.

And that's how I've done it. My strut jacking method can be sketchy. It will take some attempts to position the jack so the strut doesn't snap out when you raise it. To anyone attempting this, be careful please! And I am not responsible for damage to you, anyone else, or your car.
 
Last edited:

Off Road SHO

Moderator
Joined
Jan 16, 2002
Messages
5,684
Reaction score
1,292
Location
Arizona
I did it kind of like how Rubix described but I just wedged a hydraulic jack between the spring perch and the hub and jacked away. Popped that sucker off in a flash.

Tom
 

RuttyRut

New Member
Joined
Sep 14, 2010
Messages
9
Reaction score
0
Location
Charlotte
Rubix, sound like you been there. Off Road, let me get this strait ... a bottle jack on the knuckle and the top of it against _ _ _ _ ?
 

Radical540

New Member
Joined
Sep 19, 2010
Messages
56
Reaction score
1
Location
Michigan
Just did this job...
If you have one....use an air hammer, with a flat punch tip. Put it on the knuckle, and just "buzz" if off. (as soon I pulled the trigger on the air hammer, you can just watch the knuckle slide down.) Also, make sure you have removed the rear radius arm nut. The radius arm needs to be pulled out from the knuckle. (makes the job much easier). Also, I ended up drilling out my knuckles so I could merely use a 7/16 (grand 8) bolt and nut. (the pinch bolt design is a cost save, and you're better off with a regular nut & bolt- especially when the stock bolts typically require massive amounts of heat to remove)!!
 

Off Road SHO

Moderator
Joined
Jan 16, 2002
Messages
5,684
Reaction score
1,292
Location
Arizona
Rubix, sound like you been there. Off Road, let me get this strait ... a bottle jack on the knuckle and the top of it against _ _ _ _ ?

The bottom of the spring perch; that round thingy that the spring sits in. I used a small diameter hydraulic jack. I put a small piece of 2x4 under the jack to "level" it out. I don't like hammering on parts when hydraulics can put so much more force on it in a gentler, kinder sort of way. The hammer way puts a lot of force also but it tends to distort the steel of the strut pinch area, making it out of round at the top. JMHO.

Tom
 

zblackbeast

SHOtarded
Joined
Feb 9, 2008
Messages
2,632
Reaction score
374
Location
Omaha, NE
I took off the strut rod and sway bar end links and just beat the snot out of the knuckle with the strut still attached to the tower.. With the strut rod off you have A LOT more room to work moving the knuckle around!
 

kevinspann

Don't take my advice.
Joined
Sep 30, 2007
Messages
3,166
Reaction score
1,884
Location
Richmond VA
I took off the strut rod and sway bar end links and just beat the snot out of the knuckle with the strut still attached to the tower.. With the strut rod off you have A LOT more room to work moving the knuckle around!

Yes. I cut my rear strut rod in half to give me the room.
 

Radical540

New Member
Joined
Sep 19, 2010
Messages
56
Reaction score
1
Location
Michigan
I'm tellin' ya guys........ The air hammer with a blunt point attachment is the way to go......
 

luigisho

SHO Member
Joined
Nov 2, 2001
Messages
13,266
Reaction score
5,143
Location
va beach,va
I always had good luck with: A BFH, a floor jack and a piece of 2x4 against the strut perch, and a prybar. Don't put your face in there in case something slips.
 

Radical540

New Member
Joined
Sep 19, 2010
Messages
56
Reaction score
1
Location
Michigan
.......drill out the knuckle, and use a 7/16" grade 8 bolt and nut. It's a much better configuration (especially for future disassembly!). Torque spec is about 50 lbs./ft.
 

SHO1

Coke Is It!
Joined
Dec 31, 2005
Messages
1,275
Reaction score
214
Location
The State Of Hockey
Did it along time ago on an '89 SLO I used to have. Pinch bolt broke and had to be drilled out, put grade 8 in, worked just fine.
 

zblackbeast

SHOtarded
Joined
Feb 9, 2008
Messages
2,632
Reaction score
374
Location
Omaha, NE
I just clean the threads really well, used new pinch bolts and used anti sieze.. just remember to go back and make sure they stayed tight after a couple days, then a couple weeks.
 
Back
Top