Cali to Kansas. But with a cost!

[sho_shane]

Ok well I just took my 91 SHO from Cali to Kansas. It ran great the hole trip.
There where only two probs im having-

1. I checked the oil at every gas stop. I did not notice any oil lose for the first 1000 miles. But on the 2nd leg of the trip it used 3/4 of a quart oil.
I dont know where its going. I did not see any oil on the gorund at any of the hotels wh stayed at and I did not see any smoke coming out the pipes or from under the hood? I did smell oil ones but only for a sec then not again.
Any ideas guys?

2. I smell gas in my oil. Are there any gasgets that can go bad and let gas in the oil? Again there is no smoke coming from my car and it has great power.

Hey I really just want to thank every one on this site for all the help with all the Q's I ask. It really does mean alot and it has helped me to work on my car and keep it on the road.

Oh also I seen 2 SHO's on my 2000 mile trip. I seen both of them on I-40 one in AZ and the other in TX. It was the after noon for both I was heading east and they where heading west. They where both white and both where 2nd gens. So if your on the site and know who you are I was the white 1st gen and i say hi...

 

[93rev2sev]

Sounds like your rear cam seal let loose. It will drip down the engine and land on the catalytic converter...where it promptly vaporizes.

Since the cam seal is at the very "top" of the engine, it only sees oil when the engine is running...therefore...no oilspots in parking spots.

One way to diagnose this is to jack the car up and have a look at the intermediate shaft bearing. The passenger axle goes into the intermediate shaft and that goes into the transmission. The bearing you are looking for is about the size of a hockey puck and is bolted to the power steering bracket. If it's wet with oil, then you have a cam seal leak. Here's a picture of my old intermediate shaft. It had been absorbing oil for the last 70,000 miles and finally let loose...


As far as gas in the oil...it's the job of the piston rings to separate the crank case from the cylinder.

A small amount of fuel is escaping the cylinder and is entering the crankcase past the piston rings. This is not always a bad thing...no piston ring can be expected to perform 100.000000% efficiently forever.

Also, because SOME AMOUNT OF BLOWBY IS EXPECTED, pressure builds in the crankcase. Pressure in the crankcase is bad for a number of reasons and I'll leave it at that....That pressure must be eliminated. That is the job of the PCV(positive crankcase ventilation) tube. This is a tube that runs from the pressurized crankcase, to the intake (where vacuum lives). The vacuum from the intake sucks the pressure out of the crankcase...as a side effect, a negative pressure is created in the crankcase and that allows for MORE BLOWBY.

long story short...fix your leak and don't worry too much about gassy smelling oil.

 

[sho_shane]

:thankyou:Well thank you very much for your reply.
Now I have a new one for ya, My car has been setting for an hour or so now. After running about 7 hours strat. I went out side to move it so my friend could get out and it turned over for 10 sec or so with out starting. I stoped and tryed again. This time it cranked for a few sec and like hydro locks alittle. I stoped then tryed again and it fired up. What could that be? :thankyou:

 

[sho_shane]

And if I may ask, What goes into changing the cam seal it? This will be somthing im doing some time next week. If there is a write up to it please help me out and link it.

 

[93rev2sev]

Well that's right in line with the cam seal.

If the cam seal is leaking, it's oiling the cam sensor(not so good for the sensor). If your cam sensor is failing, the computer has to GUESS which 2 plugs to fire first. Since it has a 1 in 3 chance to get it right, it might do EXACTLY what you describe.

Guess number 1: Crank and fail to start
Guess number 2: Crank and fire on an exhaust stroke (your hydrolock feeling)
Guess number 3: Vroom.

You need cam seals and a cam sensor...but im not 100% sure...

For info on the cam seals visit read and print out the correct procedure from www.shophoenixproject.com Look for the maintenance section.

Edit...the cam seal procedure is part of the front 60k guide. There is no stand alone cam seal procdure on shophoenix.

 

[sho_shane]

Ok I see how they did it. But I just opened the front up last weekand did a new water pump, CPS, and crank seal. So please tell me there is a way to change that seal and senser with out tearing the motor down again?:scared::scared:

 

[itwonder]

You don't have to tear it all down again to change the CID oil seal, but you do have to remove the intake crossover tube, battery, upper timing cover, engine roll dampener, and tie the PS reservoir up out of the way. Then you can reach the CID well enough to change the seal. If you take the CID off and it's wet with oil inside the housing, you know the seal is leaking. When you put in the new seal, use a light coat of RTV around the outer perimeter. See shophoenixproject.com

 

[sho_shane]

Thank you very much. If it is that seaaal will it leak more if the motor is at a high rev or does it just leak the same all the time?

And are all the cam seals the same? The reason I ask is cus from what I read the SHO only has 3 cam seals and the parts store is saying that there is 4 of them?

 

[firstgen89sho]

There is only 3 cam seals, 2 for the cam gears, and one for the CID sensor

 

[1993MTXSHO]

yeah only 3, the front heads exhaust cam doesnt even stick out of the head, and yes all the cam seals are the same

EDIT: BTW this might help you down the road when you get to changing stuff.

http://www.shophoenixproject.com/CIDRemoval/CIDremoval.htm

 

[itwonder]

ditto, 3 seals but you can change only the CID seal... unless you do more disassembly; must remove the timing belt and timing pulleys to get to the other two. You can do a search and find a lot of debate about which seal is best, but most agree you can't go wrong with the Ford OEM seal PN E9DZ-6700-A. Aftermarket, the PN 1213N seal is recommended by some. RTV around the outer perimeter

 

[sho_shane]

Thank you very much. But I would not be able to get the the seal from there would i?

 

[sdpatt]

The Fel-Pro TCS45870 set of three for about $15 are the OEM seals. At least from each of the engines that I have replaced the cam seals on for the very first time.

 

[BlackonBlack89]

There also I think a "how to" in the how to section of the forum. I think it for the sensor though not the seal. But It may help

 

[itwonder]

Thank you very much. But I would not be able to get the the seal from there would i?

Your Ford dealer should be able to get the OEM seal within 24 hours for about $10, no shipping charges. Auto parts stores should have the 1213N for about $6.

The seals I have seen in the Felpro kit that sdpatt mentions are not the same as the OEM seals. They are inferior copies that are marked Made in Mexico (or US). The high quality OEM seals are clearly marked Made in Japan (by NOK Corp.). If Felpro is packaging the NOK seals now, it is a recent change. Inspect seal with a magnifying glass to see what you are getting if you use Felpro.

 

[93rev2sev]

Better than RTV for cam seals and front/rear main seals...


Loc-tite anaerobic sealer.
http://store.summitracing.com/partd...CT-37394&N=700+401068+317372+115&autoview=sku