Buzzing Solenoid?

[Funmart6]

See the round black plastic thing above the "B" in the right of this photo, is this the purge solenoid which vents manifold vapors? Has anyone ever had a problem with the thing buzzing for a second or two when it purges?

When I am waiting at a traffic light for a few minutes, there is a buzz sound that sounds like it is coming from the area where this solenoid is located, that lasts for only a couple of seconds, I was wondering if this could be causing the buzz?




Credit Firesho's Garage website for the photo used. Thank you.

 

[Silvapain]

That's the EGR solenoid. It should not be opening when idling; it should open only when cruising at part throttle.

 

[Funmart6]

Then I wonder what I am hearing? Is there anything that opens while idling? The sound will last anywhere from 1 to 3 seconds, if that helps anyway. BTW, the sound is not the fans kicking on.

 

[KickerBeast]

I have an exhaust shield rattle that only happens when I close the door when the exhaust is cold. Could be some kind of freak exhaust rattle/buzz

 

[93rev2sev]

sounds like an antilock brake self test.

 

[Funmart6]

I have no idea, but I started hearing the buzz sound after changing the rear sparkplugs about a year ago. That is why I wondered if it had something to do with the intake manifold. It seems to happen after I have driven a while without stopping, once I stop and idle, that is when I hear the buzz, sometimes it almost sounds like a weak horn.

 

[93rev2sev]

no ideer.

 

[KickerBeast]

I would drive the car, take a rubber mallet and smack on the exhaust. Best to start eliminating systems. If that doesn't do it then I would start with the intake and do the same thing. This would help to rule out vibrational issues. Just some thoughts.

 

[Funmart6]

Yeah, sometimes I would like to take more than a rubber mallet to this car.
Thanks to everyone for the suggestions.

 

[Allmostall]

Perhaps the idle air motor?

 

[Funmart6]

Perhaps the idle air motor?

Are you talking about the idle control valve?

Is this the cylindrical thing with two bolts and an electrical connector located on top of the throttle body?
How does this this thing operate? Does it open and close at idle?
Would it cause a buzz sound by possibly opening/closing improperly?
I wonder if this thing is not working properly, it could be causing the other problems I have had recently with the car not wanting to run right. It still acts up sometimes, sounding all bogged down and not wanting to shift. Maybe the computer is getting an error signal from the ICV causing it to behave erratically?
Anyone agree with this theory?

I just looked at it to make sure I was talking about the right part, it still has a couple of white dots on it from when it was inspected at the factory.

 

[Funmart6]

Well, I tested the car throughout the day and found that driving around town it performed fine until I would try to run wide open. At WOT it would buck and act erratically. I haven't had an idle problem other than the buzz sound, but I pulled the ICV and cleaned it anyway, and have yet to hear the buzz sound, so that problem may be solved. I found that my "porterized" rubber coupler had come off at the air box so I fixed that and now at WOT the car does not buck around, maybe it has been resolved also, time will tell.

My bro-in-law had a Mazda that acted like what my car has been doing and the problem with his car was that the accordian-like intake between the air box and throttle body had cracks in it, once replaced, the problem was solved. Our engines have a similar set up and I checked and found no cracks in mine. I am thinking that maybe with the rubber coupler off like it was, the engine was pulling in hot air causing the MAF to send a wrong signal to the computer or something, who knows, but now that I fixed it, it seems to be okay. At WOT the engine now seems to have full power and is running/shifting fine again.

 

[Funmart6]

Not fixed! I just drove the car and at WOT it is doing the same old crap and acting up. I am going to take a look at the TPS next, if this doesn't fix it, I just may pour gasoline on this car and have a really big marshmallow roast tonight.
Seriously, if I cannot fix this problem, this car will be traded off asap. I hate to do it but if I cannot depend on this car anymore, then there is no reason to keep it. It may be something simple that I am overlooking, who knows. Being layed off from work, I really don't have the funds to take it to a mechanic right now, but I think I would try to have it looked at by a pro before I would get rid of it, I just don't get it.

So, to sum up, around town at slow speeds, the car is fine, but at WOT it acts as if it is not in gear and is hitting the rev limiter and then sounds all bogged down as if it is flooded, weird!

 

[Mr Anonymous]

Start with cleaning your MAF.

Are you sure the sound you're hearing isn't the SAI pump cycling on and off? This does happen for 30-90 seconds at startup, and will also occasionally cycle while idling.

 

[Funmart6]

I have cleaned the MAF just a few days ago, I followed some instructions found at V8sho.com. I will pull it and clean it again. The strange thing is, the engine doesn't act up every time I run WOT. I took the car for a drive a few hours ago and didn't have any problems at all.

I am kicking myself for being so upset with this car as I posted before, it is a machine, and things will go wrong with machines and I have to understand that fact. It is just so frustrating when I cannot figure something out.
I detailed the car today and I mean really spent some time detailing it. The car looks fantastic inside and out, absolutley spotless like it is ready for a show. I was just down in the garage admiring it, and even with its problems of lately, I still Love this car. It's a Love-Hate realtionship, welcome to SHO World!

 

[KickerBeast]

May I make a suggestion....don't drive it a WOT if it keeps making you mad, lol. Seriously though, maybe the car just doesn't like it that way anymore. Did you ever take a look at the TPS? It would be hard to get a really good reading while sitting there, so if you can't get ahold of any kind of scanner, you can take some wire and scotch locks to tap into the wiring at the TPS and run leads into the car hooked up to a voltmeter to check your readings while it is happening. Also, does the problem correct itself if you back off of the throttle some. Say you are going WOT and it starts acting up. If you let it up to 75% does it come out of it? Or does this problem continue until you return to idle? I used to be a Ford tech and I can still get ahold of specs if needed and maybe some service manual.

 

[Funmart6]

When I let off on the gas it stops and goes back to performing normal. Only reason I was driving at Wot was just to see if it would act up, I don't hot rod the car too much. I haven't checked the TPS yet, and didn't drive the car at all today, but thanks for the tips.

 

[KickerBeast]

Try to drive it until it starts acting up and then when it does, slowly let off of the accelerator till it goes back to normal. This will give you a good clue to where exactly in the travel the problems is. Also, does it matter what RPM you are at when it happens. If you WOT at 4k will it be ok? what about 5.5K? Biggest thing is to try to find a consistent pattern between either pedal position or RPM. This will help give you a clue as to where exactly the problem lies. If you check the TPS check to make sure the voltage sweep is fluid. You don't want any sudden jumps or dips in the sweep. Closed throttle voltage should be around .8V and WOT should be close to 5V. Take a look when you get a chance. Let me know what you find and I'll think about it some more. I have some other sources I can ask too. Another thought with the RPM, put the car in 1st and run the RPMs up at half to 3/4 throttle to see if it acts up. Do the same at WOT to make sure the two comparisons are equal. Good luck and be safe while you are doing this.

 

[Funmart6]

:thankyou: ..... looks like tomorrow is a day for testing.

 

[Funmart6]

Update: Tested Car Today

Okay, so I drove the car today. I did not attempt WOT, but was almost at WOT and the car did fine. From a standing start, it changed gears smoothly. I did experience a little of what it has been doing though. I was just cruising at around 2000 RPM's and all of a sudden it acted as if it had slipped out of gear. When it did this, I let off on the gas and it was acting fine again. The car did this only one time today. I have not had a chance to look at the TPS yet, I have to get a meter, saw one at Autozone that wasn't too expensive.

I just hope this problem isn't the transmission again as it was rebuilt in '07 and of course the warranty has run out. It seems that the little things I have done have been making the car a little better bit by bit. A few weeks ago the car wouldn't shift out of 1st gear without doing it manually. When I changed out the rear coils and moved the fronts around, the car shifted normally except for the hiccup here and there. It has been such an intermittent problem that it has been difficult to nail down.

On the subject of the buzzing sound, I have noticed that it is the same sound I hear at start up, said to be the SAI pump. Is this the "smog pump"
Where is this thing located? I have searched but cannot get a location.