Bucking when I hit the throttle?

[Brian685]

Where exactly is the TPS?

- Brian

 

[luigisho]

You can find the tps on the side of the throttle body. Find where the MAF hose connects to the tb and it's there. It's an inexpensive part. I don't know if I'd completely agree with turning it counterclockwise. When you install a new one you are supposed to install it where the connector is at say 2o'clock and turn it until the screws line up at around 3o'clock thus putting tension on the internal spring to prevent it from being turned counterclockwise. Perhaps to adjust it you would be better off removing it and reinstalling it properly while reading for proper voltage. Since it's cheap, I'd just replace it with a new one. There are a few who have readjusted their tps but I haven't seen any post here yet and,unless you already own one, the meter to read voltage would probably cost close to what a new tps would cost. Remember to reset the pcm whenever you install new sensors.

 

[naval-avi8or]

Its located on the front of the throttle body has two small screws (be carefull not to overtighten). Its black and locks like Mickey Mouse (the screws go threw his ears) it also has a electrical connector (twds the fender).

 

[naval-avi8or]

luigisho:
I don't know if I'd completely agree with turning it counterclockwise.

I confused you with this. I simply mean some guys have taken their old one loosed not removed the screws and twisted it as much as possible counter clockwise then retightened the screws. The TPS voltage increases as you rotate the butterfly in the throttle body threw the same shaft that the throttle cable connects. As you apply your foot to the throttle it rotates the shaft which rotates the internal parts of the tps. If you can slightly adjust the tps as I stated above then the tps would not be able to rotate as far and would produce less voltage. Which in your case could be an over voltage. The other thing may be that you have a dead spot in the TPS and when you get to that point it has an intermitant voltage loss.

 

[naval-avi8or]

To bad you don't live in San Diego I've got an extra and you could test it that way. There are ways of testing them for the correct votage output. You may even be able to do a continuity test and see if it looses continuity at WOT.

 

[luigisho]

In that case I would agree. I just wouldn't advise someone who wasn't familiar with the design, let alone the location of said sensor, to turn it too far in that direction. I think continuity test may be part of adjusting. Of course Scott just did this and he's on vacation!

 

[Brian685]

Well I discovered that my DIS module (sensor on the crossover tube) is cracked from when my motor mount was completely broken. The dealer wants $180 for it... is this ridiculous? Who can help me out here.

- Brian

 

[notstock]

Brian685:
Well I discovered that my DIS module (sensor on the crossover tube) is cracked from when my motor mount was completely broken. The dealer wants $180 for it... is this ridiculous? Who can help me out here.

- Brian

Brian,

I'm just now chiming in....the DIS is a good possibility. Be glad this didn't happen 6 months ago when Ford was out of them and people were trying selling used ones for $250 - $300.

If you replace it and that doesn't do the trick (it should though), I have another thought. The intake manifold has four 'support' brackets that are connected to the heads. The back passenger side bracket is a bolt with a threaded stud on the end. There is an engine ground and wiring harness bracket on this threaded rod and a bolt that goes over them both. The ended of the threaded bolt sticks out further than the nut. Right behind this bolt is the main wiring harness from the computer that travels across the firewall. When you romp on the engine it lifts and the end of the bolt hits the wire. Over time the covering on the harness gets a hole worn in it and eventually the bolt can cut through the insulation on one of the wires inside there. When you romp on it the bolt hits the wire and shorts it out, causing the engine to buck. When the load is gone, the bolt quits touching the wire and the engine runs fine again. [edit] This is why it only happens when you really put your foot in it. If you drive it 'normal', the engine doesn't move as much and doesn't hit the wire. When it's not touching the wire, it runs fine..... [end edit] Just a thought in case the DIS doesn't do it.

Kurt

<small>[ May 28, 2002, 07:20 PM: Message edited by: notstock ]</small>

 

[Brian685]

Wow thank you very much. I am going to check that out... if anybody can point me to a cheaper source for a DIS module that would also be appreciated. Thanks for all the help.

- Brian

 

[naval-avi8or]

Rockauto.com 93.04

fordpartsnetwork.com DIS Module DY-958 $155.99

fordpartsonline.com
Electrical, Ignition System, Ignition oil, Sable, Taurus, 3.0L Sho List $163.31 Your cost $95.54

you can also check with other auto parts stores.

<small>[ May 28, 2002, 07:23 PM: Message edited by: naval-avi8or ]</small>

 

[luigisho]

Don't forget to check the classifieds here and at shoclub.com for people parting out cars.

 

[Brian685]

Can anybody help me out w/a part number for rock auto? their java window won't load for me. Thanks!

- Brian

 

[naval-avi8or]

I actually justed noticed when I clicked on it it gave me the wrong one earlier.

rockauto.com
Standard motor products LX-231 156.96

fordpartsonline.com
Electrical, Ignition System, Ignition Module, Sable, Taurus, 3.0L $79.82

 

[Shoman94]

Brian: Does this ONLY happen in 1st and 2nd gear? If your "to the mat" in other gears it does not happen?

Code 18 is a memory code also and it is: Erratic Tach signal. This means that the signal the PCM receives from the DIS is not constant, hence the issue at hand. I would have to say that the DIS replacement is required.
Jason

<small>[ May 28, 2002, 09:18 PM: Message edited by: Shoman94 ]</small>

 

[Brian685]

You're correct; this only happens at FULL throttle in 1st and 2nd gear. So the DIS it is?

- Brian

 

[Shoman94]

Brian685:
You're correct; this only happens at FULL throttle in 1st and 2nd gear. So the DIS it is?

- Brian

Yes, the crack sums it up.

jason