Broken Clutch not broken

[Sexymeatball]

Just thought I'd post the results of my clutch replacement job this past weekend (and then some). The symptoms that had directed me to get a new clutch including very stiff shifting, a stiff and imprecise clutch pedal feel and the inability to shift into reverse w/o extreme grinding while the car was on. Many members of this forum pointed me toward the TOB as the cause of this problem. I bought a stage I CM clutch from midwestsho (great place by the way, would order from them again in a heartbeat ). Anyway, after getting the old stock valeo clutch apart, my dad and I noticed something...there was nothing wrong with the clutch, any of it. So after looking it over in puzzlement for about 15 min, we finally figured out what had gone wrong. Apparantly the sleeve had come loose on the input shaft and was riding up the shaft and jamming against the clutch disc preventing it from disengaging fully and causing symptoms very similar to that of a worn or broken TOB. Even though I could not see anything wrong with the old clutch, I put the new clutch in when putting the car together. The guy that resurfaced my flywheel suggested that I use a locking material (I forget the name off the top of my head) from NAPA to prevent this from happening again. I did just that and hope that I will not have to drop the tranny again in another 15k. Has anyone else had this problem?
/Jeremy

 

[TYSHO]

What sleeve were you using, Ford or aftermarket?

 

[nc89sho]

common problem. the locktite should keep it from coming back.

 

[platoribs]

At 102 K I had the complete 60K done, mechanic went into the tranny and changed out a few things like synchro's... He spiked the sleeve onto the shaft. By 120K I couldn't get the car into gear (any gear) from neutral if it wasn't rolling a little. So in goes another clutch, different mechanic. He showed me where the shaft had been wallowed out some where the throwout bearing was riding, so he glued the sleeve in there, told me they'd have to cut it off. I'm not 100% sure but I've now got 145K on that car and it seems to be exhibiting the same kind of behavior as when it happened the first time.

Sooooo, I wouldn't surprised if your problem comes back, hope not but...

 

[Mike Kopstain]

The sleeve riding up the shaft and a bad throwout bearing/ worn pressure plate fingers will all result in similar symptoms. Your problem is most likely something else Chris, especially considering that the sleeve was "glued". Loctite it key... I've never seen one that was loctited that was easily removed (which is good). The sleeve was designed to give the bearing a clean surface to ride on considering many of the older input shafts were gauled by the previous revision bearing when it would fail. The imperfections from the Rev A. bearing failures should actually aid in the sleeve fitment (and keeping it in place).

 

[Devin]

I'm dumb, and I will be installing the clutch later, so I should pay attention. What is this sleeve? I know what an input shaft is, just because it's the only shaft coming out of the middle of the tranny, but I'm not sure what the sleeve is, and how to loctite it...

 

[SW SHO]

I'm dumb, and I will be installing the clutch later, so I should pay attention. What is this sleeve? I know what an input shaft is, just because it's the only shaft coming out of the middle of the tranny, but I'm not sure what the sleeve is, and how to loctite it...

You're not dumb. The TOB rides on this sleeve. Using loctite (shonut recommend a certain type and I forget which) inside the sleeve and on the input shaft prior to intalling the TOB and reinstallation of the tranny and other goodies.

 

[SHO green like$]

Sleeve adhesive

FYI - There are several types of LocTite, Red, Green, and I think the other is Blue. Red is the most common and is good, mostly for nuts/bolts._ If you really want a part to stay on real good, especially a large part use Green, or Blue. I just checked their web site and didn't see anything about green or blue but I know I've used it.
The package said:
Red- Bolts can be removed with great difficulty
Green- bolts can be removed with partial destruction of the threads.
Blue- bolts can be removed only with total destruction of the threads.

Tip- use heat to aid in removal.

Note: green and Blue might be reversed order..


That ought to hold it.

 

[Ishodu]

Its not really locktite you use here. Its called sleeve retainer and it is green. This is used to locking the quill sleeve on there.
From the first post it almost sounds like hes talking about the bushing on the release shaft? If it was very worn it could start to turn in the housing then get loose and move around on the shaft quite easy. If this is what your talking about I hope you installed new ones.

 

[masho95]

 

[Denny]

...I did just that and hope that I will not have to drop the tranny again in another 15k. Has anyone else had this problem?

Interesting....my clutch lasted about that long. I have yet to drop the trans and fully inspect it, but something is going on with my clutch

 

[Sexymeatball]

From the first post it almost sounds like hes talking about the bushing on the release shaft? If it was very worn it could start to turn in the housing then get loose and move around on the shaft quite easy. If this is what your talking about I hope you installed new ones.

Nah, the bushing is good. Replaced that the first time I did the clutch...It was definately the sleeve riding up and jamming into the clutch disc. There are wear marks to prove it. Its just frustrating that I had to drop the tranny (not to mention more money than I can afford) on something that stupid.