BRAKES!! Help please...

[Toolman]

I know I read something about this at one time, but I could not find it with a search. Here goes:

Just finished an engine install, car had been sitting without calipers for some time, a lot of fluid drained off, and I also replaced the master cylinder. Time comes to bleed the brakes, new resevoir filled with ATE blue, ready to go, I thought. I can just keep pumping the brakes, but no fluid is moving, as in nothing is coming out of my bleed valve (no air, no fluid, nothing). I know the MC works, but the pedal is soft as can be.

Any ideas? AM I going to need to have my ABS bled/pumped/primed/whatever? Does anyone have that tool that I have seen talked about, some sort of ABS bleeder? Anyway, this is my last hurdle before getting this car on the road, as everything else seems to be working well. I REALLY need to get this car on the road, as it will be up for sale soon. Thank a million forum dudes (and dudettes)!!

 

[Mr95Gl]

I know I read something about this at one time, but I could not find it with a search. Here goes:

Just finished an engine install, car had been sitting without calipers for some time, a lot of fluid drained off, and I also replaced the master cylinder. Time comes to bleed the brakes, new resevoir filled with ATE blue, ready to go, I thought. I can just keep pumping the brakes, but no fluid is moving, as in nothing is coming out of my bleed valve (no air, no fluid, nothing). I know the MC works, but the pedal is soft as can be.

Any ideas? AM I going to need to have my ABS bled/pumped/primed/whatever? Does anyone have that tool that I have seen talked about, some sort of ABS bleeder? Anyway, this is my last hurdle before getting this car on the road, as everything else seems to be working well. I REALLY need to get this car on the road, as it will be up for sale soon. Thank a million forum dudes (and dudettes)!!

Might be a collapsed line some where. Are there any fluids in spots it shouldn't be at?

 

[NJSHO]

I think you have to bleed the master cylinder first. Then you can bleed the system. I believe you crack the lines attached to the cylinder and put a rag there and pump the pedal till you see fluid. After that you tighten the lines and bleed the rest of the system. If you still have the rear proportioning valve, the rear suspension will have to be level if you want fluid to flow to the back at a decent rate. You will definitely need that abs tool, since the system is dry. Make sure you keep the master cylinder full of fluid or you will just introduce more air into the system and have to start over. If I remember I will get the bleed procedure off the ford cd at lunch for after replacing a mc.

 

[93rev2sev]

^ what njsho said

 

[SHOMurph]

Common Tim you only need brakes if your fast.

 

[Dave Kegel]

^ what njsho said

Ditto. Bleed the Master cylinder first.

Dave

 

[Toolman]

I think you have to bleed the master cylinder first. Then you can bleed the system. I believe you crack the lines attached to the cylinder and put a rag there and pump the pedal till you see fluid. After that you tighten the lines and bleed the rest of the system.

That sounds reasonable. I will try that.

You will definitely need that abs tool, since the system is dry.

The system was never dry, I covered the lines to keep them from leaking. Hopefully bleeding the MC and the rest of the system will be enough. If not, then hopefully that will be enough to at least get me to a brake shop.

 

[Toolman]

Common Tim you only need brakes if your fast.

So that is why you and Tony have always had stock brakes. It all makes sense now. :laugh_ti:

 

[SinisterSHO]

I have an ABS Bleed tool I bought off ebay and have yet to use.

Not really any help, just throwing that out there.

 

[Toolman]

Can you ship it out?

 

[SHOMurph]

So that is why you and Tony have always had stock brakes. It all makes sense now. :laugh_ti:

I've got 96 brake upgrade and stainless steel lines

oh you know you've studied my mod list over and over.