Brake replacement/bleed sequence

[Gmoney11MKS]

So it's time to do pads/rotors. I've ordered some and I'm currently waiting for them to come in. Just had a quick question on bleed sequence. Is it RR,LF,LR,RF? That's what my last car was, but before doing it on this one I figured I'd ask.

 

[SaveMelMac]

I’ve always been told to start farthest away from the master so RR,RL,FR,FL hasn’t failed me once

 

[4sfed]

If you're not opening the system, there should be no reason to bleed the brakes. And by opening the system I mean replacing calipers or the master cylinder.


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[Gmoney11MKS]

Ever since I damaged my abs module on my cobalt by not opening the system to depress the calipers I tend to error on the side of caution and crack open the calipers. I just bought the car and have little to zero knowledge of previous maintenance, so figured it would also be a good time to flush as much of the fluid out as I can. It has 79k on it and I doubt it's been done. I still need to grab some fluid, but have a few days until the parts come in. Hopefully I can do it all next weekend.

 

[4sfed]

Ever since I damaged my abs module on my cobalt by not opening the system to depress the calipers I tend to error on the side of caution and crack open the calipers. I just bought the car and have little to zero knowledge of previous maintenance, so figured it would also be a good time to flush as much of the fluid out as I can. It has 79k on it and I doubt it's been done. I still need to grab some fluid, but have a few days until the parts come in. Hopefully I can do it all next weekend.

True...couldn't hoit.


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[Gmoney11MKS]

I've been using valvoline fluid in several of my past vehicles(blue bottle). Should I stick with that, or is there a better fluid recommended? I like the valvoline as it's affordable, works well and seems to be good fluid for a daily/weekend fun car. And it's available pretty much everywhere local to me. But since I'm waiting I don't mind getting something else if it's better and not terribly expensive. The valvoline is about $12 for the larger quart sized bottle and I figured one will do it.

 

[Lostneye]

Most Fords will not pass fluid through the ABS module while bleeding without a proper scan tool to open it. Shouldn't be an issue to bleed them. While not 100% necessary if the system isn't opened the fluid will eventually still pick up water and it is good practice to bleed the system regularly and keep fresh fluid in the system. Motorcraft is a decent DOT4 without going to expensive alternatives. I was taught with starting from furthest from the master but with ABS it may make more sense to start furthest fro the ABS module since the fluid flows through it from the master before going to each wheel.

 

[SHOdded]

The ABS is right next to the master cylinder, so for intents and purposes, distance can be considered same as from the MC.

Sequence: RR, LR, RF, LF.

 

[Lostneye]

The ABS is right next to the master cylinder, so for intents and purposes, distance can be considered same as from the MC.

Sequence: RR, LR, RF, LF.

Didn't recall offhand but have seen some cars where it is the opposite side of the vehicle as the master.

 

[Airborne]

Most Fords will not pass fluid through the ABS module while bleeding without a proper scan tool to open it. Shouldn't be an issue to bleed them. While not 100% necessary if the system isn't opened the fluid will eventually still pick up water and it is good practice to bleed the system regularly and keep fresh fluid in the system. Motorcraft is a decent DOT4 without going to expensive alternatives. I was taught with starting from furthest from the master but with ABS it may make more sense to start furthest fro the ABS module since the fluid flows through it from the master before going to each wheel.

This 100%. The ABS module holds a good amount of fluid and if you are bleeding the system just to put in new fluid (excellent idea, by the way) you will leave alot of old fluid in the system if you don't use a scan tool to activate the ABS module. When using Ford VCM IDS the software will tell you which wheels to go to in sequence, I think it depends more on how the ABS module is configured than the traditional way of farthest wheel from the master cylinder first. I am unfamiliar with other scan tools and software, but assume the same logic.

 

[Gmoney11MKS]

Unfortunately I do not have access to a Ford scan tool, so it won't be a complete flush. But I figured getting as much out as possible will still be better than nothing. I will also be doing this as a one man job as I don't really have help. I do have a vacuum bleeder and have had some previous success with it. Overall it should be a smooth, easy job.

Pads will be here tomorrow and I'm still waiting for r1 to ship the rotors. Just contacted them earlier, said they should ship in the next 2-3 business days. First time using them, but reviews are good, so I'm hopeful.

 

[SHOrod]

If you're doing this flush as a single person flush you may want to consider picking up a vacuum line check valve and some clear plastic tubing that will fit it and the bleeder screw. Cut the tubing in half, connect one section of hose to the inlet of the check valve, the other section of hose to the outlet, blow through the two end of the hose to make sure you know which way the air will flow (kind of backward since these are intended for vacuum) and connect the end that you can get air to blow through to the bleeder screw. Put the other hose in to a bottle, then barely open your bleeder screw. You can then slowly pump the brake pedal until fresh fluid starts to appear in the clear hose. Obviously pump as much of the old fluid out of the master cylinder first so that the reservoir can be filled with mostly fresh fluid and try your hardest to not let the master cylinder run dry.

This method basically mimics the function of "speed bleeders" but for a lot less cost and less mess. You can also use it on multiple vehicles, not just the one with "speed bleeders." It's a good idea to keep a spare check valve on hand too just in case one fails. For what it's worth, I've flushed the brakes on probably 5 vehicles and have yet to have the check valve fail. I wasn't sure how well they'd fare with brake fluid, but apparently pretty well.

As for not having access to a Ford scan tool to run the ABS pump during the flush, you can maybe just find a sand/gravel/dirt road to activate the ABS pump a few times, then flush the system again to get mostly fresh fluid in the pump.

-Rod

 

[Gmoney11MKS]

If you're doing this flush as a single person flush you may want to consider picking up a vacuum line check valve and some clear plastic tubing that will fit it and the bleeder screw. Cut the tubing in half, connect one section of hose to the inlet of the check valve, the other section of hose to the outlet, blow through the two end of the hose to make sure you know which way the air will flow (kind of backward since these are intended for vacuum) and connect the end that you can get air to blow through to the bleeder screw. Put the other hose in to a bottle, then barely open your bleeder screw. You can then slowly pump the brake pedal until fresh fluid starts to appear in the clear hose. Obviously pump as much of the old fluid out of the master cylinder first so that the reservoir can be filled with mostly fresh fluid and try your hardest to not let the master cylinder run dry.

This method basically mimics the function of "speed bleeders" but for a lot less cost and less mess. You can also use it on multiple vehicles, not just the one with "speed bleeders." It's a good idea to keep a spare check valve on hand too just in case one fails. For what it's worth, I've flushed the brakes on probably 5 vehicles and have yet to have the check valve fail. I wasn't sure how well they'd fare with brake fluid, but apparently pretty well.

As for not having access to a Ford scan tool to run the ABS pump during the flush, you can maybe just find a sand/gravel/dirt road to activate the ABS pump a few times, then flush the system again to get mostly fresh fluid in the pump.

-Rod

Thanks for the tips. Will definitely give that a try. Unfortunately finding a dirt road around town here is difficult unless it's construction.

https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/...elp-straight-vacuum-check-valve/47149/4528381

Check valve like this one or do you have a better suggestion?

 

[Eric Morris]

There's a million way to bleed. Some guys just do it with gravity and it works fine. I've done it the standard way many times with the pedal and an assistant (why I married my wife), but I use a pressure bleeder now when possible.

I have a metal one with a rubber diaphragm separating the pressurized air from the fluid- keeps all the moisture out of the fluid that way. It's so easy,- you just crack the bleeder and it comes out. You can tap the calipers to release air bubbles while it's flowing too. I don't worry about ABS. It'll get cycled through in the winter.