Brake Proportion Valve assembly for 95 mtx?

[repoman88tc]

Greetings All, We have a 95 3.0 MTX Sho with no brakes. Found that the small box that several brake lines are pressed into on the drivers side inner fenderwell has a corrosion problem on the pressed lines going in. Luckily the line blew a hole just as my son was getting home (unknowingly). Next day he backed out and pedal fell to the floor when pressed, no brakes.
Mechanic friend says this part with pressed in lines comes as a complete assembly and has to be replaced as lines are corroded and a line splice isn`t safe. With that said, where can this part/assembly be found as Ford says they don`t carry it anymore.
Also, Car Fax says this was a Connecticut car when new and was there for 4 years before coming to Georgia. After further inspection, all brake lines to rear had been replaced previous to our buying car but not front lines.
Any help with this issue is appreciated. Thanks, Alan

 

[shopartsnw]

I don't understand which lines you are talking about. There is the main ABS distribution block that has he ABS pump on top of it, but the lines are threaded connections.

There is also a small rectangular distribution block, but I thought it was threaded. I can check tonight if you want. I know we have them from rust free cars. Email us at shopartsnwATyahooDOTcom with your zip code, and we can get you a price.

Since you are now out of the land of rust, you can also go to a local junkyard and pull one. Make sure it is a 94/95 ABS Taurus/Sable.

Mike

 

[Shoaz]

I think he might mean the bias valve.

 

[repoman88tc]

It`s the small block in the hard to see /get to place. And they are a b. i`ll let u know something. Trying to locate N.O.S. or replacement part nearby. Thanks

 

[adidas_kn]

Yeah looks like your ABS line from the master cylinder to the ABS pump is bad. find another in the Junk yard or bend some new ones. The Bias/proportioning valve is in the rear above the control arms.

 

[repoman88tc]

Let me clarify, the line blew so close to the small box that there`s no replacing the line alone. i`m told the box with the pre pressed in lines has to be replaced as it comes as an assembly. So i guess it`s to find a parts car for this or try to find new hopefully? Thanks Again
Also i`m quoting a former **** mechanic that serviced these year cars although he may not be an sho specific mechanic, therefore we`re open to any ideas or suggestions.
*if you take off the drivers side front wheel it`s located up under that area on the inner fenderwell. one bolt holds the box in place and then there`s all the brake lines going in and out. just trying to give the best description i can,

 

[adidas_kn]

??? WTF? I just completely dissasembled and reasembled my entire car an I saw nothing of the sort. Are you sure it's brake related and not a vacuum canister or something? The only brake line in the drivers side inner fender is the actual brake line that comes from the ABS pump and then goes to the brake caliper. In this case I would highly suggest that you snap a pic or 2 and post it up for us to see. Hopefully your car hasn't been ghetto rigged by some half assed mechanic. Like maybe he bypassed the factory ABS sytem with his own Dist block. Just trying to help cause you might not be able to find this mythical piece you need.

 

[adidas_kn]

Here's a pic of mine from awhile back. Notice the pack of brake lines coming from the M/C and then going to the ABS unit? Thats what it should look like and then it goes to the individual brakes.

 

[Storm-Chaser]

He's talking about the small black plastic distribution block, mounted on the driver's-side inner unibody framerail, well below the master cylinder.

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Alan, the good news is that the three lines that pass through the distribution block are not pressed-in - that's actually where each of the lines are butt-spliced together. The bad news is that those lines are part of the bundle assembly, which includes the two lines running from the master cylinder to the ABS pump and the four lines that run from the ABS pump toward each of the wheel brakes.

More good news - you can use a bundle assembly from any 94-95 Taurus or Sable that has antilock brakes. The additional bad news - replacing the bundle assembly is time consuming and the part has long since been discontinued.

Start by reading this thread here, and posting your follow-on questions:

Brake Line Bypass?
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Greetings All, We have a 95 3.0 MTX Sho with no brakes. Found that the small box that several brake lines are pressed into on the drivers side inner fenderwell has a corrosion problem on the pressed lines going in. Luckily the line blew a hole just as my son was getting home (unknowingly). Next day he backed out and pedal fell to the floor when pressed, no brakes.

Mechanic friend says this part with pressed in lines comes as a complete assembly and has to be replaced as lines are corroded and a line splice isn`t safe. With that said, where can this part/assembly be found as Ford says they don`t carry it anymore.

Also, Car Fax says this was a Connecticut car when new and was there for 4 years before coming to Georgia. After further inspection, all brake lines to rear had been replaced previous to our buying car but not front lines.

Any help with this issue is appreciated. Thanks, Alan

 

[adidas_kn]

Look at me I was wrong. Good luck with it man.

 

[repoman88tc]

Thanks to all who tried, Storm-Chaser hit the nail on the head. I`m continuing with this on the "Brake Line Bypass?" thread highlighted by Storm-Chaser above. For now will advise mechanic of opinions here and go from there. I just hope it`s a little easier fix since all lines to rear were replaced previously. Still won`t be easy but appears to be time consuming. Just hate to see my sons pretty red Sho down for good. He`s so depressed about this he`s about ready to part her out, but i`m steering him towards repair. again thanks alot to all, specifically Storm-Chaser. Alan

 

[Storm-Chaser]

The first place I would look for a replacement bundle assembly is the salvage yards. You'll find that the lines are much easier to pull/remove from a vehicle that has had the engine removed - especially the right-front line which travels behind the engine along the top of the firewall and then down along the right inner fender/strut tower to the right-front flexible line.

While you're at it I would pull *ALL* the brake lines, even if you don't think your son's SHO needs them. My experience with the brake lines has been, that once the first line begins to leak (or blows-through), that the additional lines will begin to leak/fail one-at-a-time, at about a rate of one new leak/failure 1-to-6 months after the last leak/failure. Basically once the bad line is repaired/replaced, the next "weaker-link" will be subject to full system pressure again until time takes it's toll.

The reason I recommend buying all the lines - especially if you find a set in very good shape - is because you have no idea what the condition of the previously installed lines are in. While they may look to be in good shape, there can be internal line corrosion if the system sat open/dry in a salvage yard for an extended period of time. The line may have been bent-then straightened and thus weakened, be partially kinked, have nics you cannot see, etc. There's also the possibilty that one or both flare nuts were corroded and/or cross-threaded, that an end had to be re-flared or is corroded. You also have no idea how long those lines will last, and what the availabililty of replacement lines will be at some later date when you need them.

And if you find a southern rust-free car with a complete system and can afford it, I would recommend buying the ABS pump/controller as well. First, you won't have to worry about breaking-loose the six flare-nut fittings to/from the ABS. Second, you won't have to risk rounding one or more of the fittings, or twisting one or more of the line-ends - trying to separate the bundle assembly from the ABS pump/controller assembly.

If you can borrow one, get a door panel removal tool. There are several small black plastic blocks that keep the six lines in the bundle assembly from chaffing against each other, and the one that physically attaches the assembly to the inner framerail is a pain-in-the-ass to get out. A large plastic push-pin just like those in the small black plastic blocks that hold the rear brake lines under the car, holds that one in place. The door panel removal tool will make it mich easier and ensure you don't destroy the block trying to get the bundle assembly out. If you cannot find one to borrow, you may be able to rent one from AutoZone, Advance Auto, etc. Worse case is you have to buy one, I know they're available at AutoZone for $5.99 and tax.

Upholstery Clip Tool - $5.99

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[93rev2sev]

I gotcha covered, replacement-wise.

Stay tuned to this thread for something very exciting in the next week.