Brake Bleeding Question

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Tillong

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OK so I read the shotimes instructions on bleeding the brakes seems fairly simple (it always does until you start) however I have a question about this section:

"Start by bleeding the longest line first, that would be the right rear, then move to the driver's rear, then to the right front, and finally the driver's front. Also, on Tauri that have the brake bias adjuster on the rear suspension, make sure that the rear suspension is at normal ride height, if the wheels are hanging, this adjuster reduces the flow to the rear calipers, making the bleeding go really slow. "

How do I know if my SHO's got a brake bias adjuster. I have a 91SHO so I hope someone out there will know for me. And if it does what do you recommend, just jacking it up taking the tire off then lowering it to where the tire would normally touch the ground?

Paul
 

smcallis

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I think they all have it. Its on the left rear swing arm (dont know what its actually called). You cant missi it. It has a spring and 4 brake lines coming out of it. I just jacked up the right side of the car enough so I could get in and do the left. That way the suspension stays loaded. It still went slow for me. That may mean my proportioning might be bad.
 

Tillong

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Also it recommends whatever the brake fluid is in the metal can - but it doesnt say how much of it I need to buy. Is just one can enough or will I need more?

Thanks Paul
 

jcostantino

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I think 2 liters should be plenty to flush the entire system and you'll probably have some left over.

I'm doing mine this weekend and I'm going to evacuate as much out of the resovoir as I can and load it with fresh fluid first before I start flushing the old junk out.

Jeff
 

Bizzy

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Tillong:
How do I know if my SHO's got a brake bias adjuster. I have a 91SHO so I hope someone out there will know for me. And if it does what do you recommend, just jacking it up taking the tire off then lowering it to where the tire would normally touch the ground?
Paul, you have the adjuster. (Proportioning valve)

It is said that you need to have the suspension in the full rebound position..meaning the wheels need to be as they would be when sitting on the ground to bleed your system. I have found that you can bleed the brakes while the car is jacked up. Once I replaced my prop valve and rubber brake lines on my car, the bleeding was a cinch. I think you'd only have problems if there were additional problems with your braking system.

Just FYI...the prop valve is located behind the driver's rear wheel beyond the strut assembly. It looks kindof like an off shape box with 4 small brake tubes coming out of it.

Edit: The reason why you should buy brake fluid in a can is because it can become contaminated through the plastic containers. I'd buy a small can of it unless you plan on flushing the system. Just keep an eye on your master cyl. and never let it go dry or you'll be in doo-daa trying to get the air out of your system.

<small>[ June 12, 2002, 10:56 PM: Message edited by: Bizzy ]</small>
 

jcostantino

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Yep... brake fluid likes to absorb water which can come in thorugh the plastic since it is actually a slightly porous membrane. If you bought a plastic container of brake fluid and you knew it wasn't sitting on the shelf for a year then that would be fine. I think the whole "don't buy brake fluid in plastic continers" arguement should be "don't store brake fluid in plastic containers" since I doubt that any auto parts store would have brake fluid for so long that it's ruined from being hygroscopic.

Jeff
 

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