Boost issues (getting only 5-7 psi)

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thenewguy

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Hey guys, hoping someone can help me out. E30 Tuned by AJP, GH IC, PPE catted DPs, 170 tstat, HPFP 35, 3 bar map. Im on 3rd revision and he sent me a 4th one. Loaded it up and all was good, drove around a few days and then did a couple of pulls, noticed im not getting thrown back into my seat anymore. In his previous revision, i was hitting 21 psi, now i can barely make it to 7. Brought car back, checked all hoses, the infamous one and all are in their place. Cant hear any leaks either. What could it be? I was trying to attach my log but wasnt able to. I already sent it to Brad, but as we all know, its Brad lol. Just wanna make sure im not damaging anything, drives perfectly fine when not on it.
 

802SHO

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Try to check that all hoses going in and out of the boost solenoid have a rock solid connection, the hardest one to check is the rear turbo wastagate. Also, the plastic piping could be cracked somewhere, when I installed my hot pipes I found a crack on the underside of a pipe, which is hard to see from the top, even though I didn’t seem to have a leak. 21 psi might be a lot for the plastic pipes. I don’t think a stock car sees more than 12 psi spike on a shift. So boost pressure is now doubled on the same plastic part.

Long term you’ll likely want to switch to the aluminum (hot) pipes. But you must have a leak somewhere. I’d really try to check your IC inlet and outlet connection since that’s something that was definitely recently done. If one connection wasn’t 100%, either not tight enough or crooked….it may have gotten the extra help from the rise in boost with tuning, to become a problem.

In your data log you’ll notice that at just 5-7 psi you’re probably at or near 100% WGDC %. You know you’re leaking if your WGDC % has increased significantly from your last data log.
 

kryptto

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Just adding to @802SHO observations. One of the weaker areas to check is the noisemaker and pipe to IC. When I switched out my noisemaker to EPP metal pipe, the metal clips holding the noisemaker was easy to separate. Thatis why EPP ships with those silicon interconnect hoses. The bottom of that pipe was filthy with oil that leaks past the rubber gaskets.

Lastly, someone on the HP Tuner forums complained that a cap from the throttle body would come off. Now I don't know since my TB doesn't have that cap. Maybe someone can elaborate based on a possible change in TB between years?

Sent from my SM-T860 using Tapatalk
 

802SHO

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Just adding to @802SHO observations. One of the weaker areas to check is the noisemaker and pipe to IC. When I switched out my noisemaker to EPP metal pipe, the metal clips holding the noisemaker was easy to separate. Thatis why EPP ships with those silicon interconnect hoses. The bottom of that pipe was filthy with oil that leaks past the rubber gaskets.

Lastly, someone on the HP Tuner forums complained that a cap from the throttle body would come off. Now I don't know since my TB doesn't have that cap. Maybe someone can elaborate based on a possible change in TB between years?

Sent from my SM-T860 using Tapatalk
As far as I know we all have the same TB 2010-2019 Taurus SHO
 

kryptto

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I found the post, HA! even back then I was a bit confused by what he meant. He wasn't a wonk, very knowledgeable, however I never challenged his observation. In case someone else gets it...535e9afd25865d8974d5bf4d7dd99454

2014 Ford Taurus SHO PP - Catless Downpipes - 3BAR MAP - Ford Performance Spark Plugs Colder Range - K&N CAD, Reisch 170, HP Tuned, Accel Coil Pack, Chrome Delete - Android Auto Nav System
 

thenewguy

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Hey guys, thanks for all the suggestions, I'm fairly new to this stuff so diagnosing on my own is a little tough but was able to get most of the info on what is what. BTW I drive a flex so we don't have the noisemaker for some odd reason. I'll give a more detailed response later tonight but @802SHO , you're right, I saw my log and had almost 100% wastegate up until 35ish miles and then for some odd reason, the rest of the run it showed 0....
I made a quick video of the bay and me checking stuff. If you guy could maybe point out exactly what more I should check and you'll be able to see as well in anything is off in the video, thanks
 

SM105K

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I would make sure that the rod connecting the wastegate to the turbo hasn't fallen off one of your turbos. Sounds like it has.
 

kryptto

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Hey guys, thanks for all the suggestions, I'm fairly new to this stuff so diagnosing on my own is a little tough but was able to get most of the info on what is what. BTW I drive a flex so we don't have the noisemaker for some odd reason. I'll give a more detailed response later tonight but @802SHO , you're right, I saw my log and had almost 100% wastegate up until 35ish miles and then for some odd reason, the rest of the run it showed 0....
I made a quick video of the bay and me checking stuff. If you guy could maybe point out exactly what more I should check and you'll be able to see as well in anything is off in the video, thanks
EASIEST WAY - and safest to find the leak. Spray bottle - add a "DROP" of soap - dish is fine, fill with water, and gently shake - spray and watch for bubbles. Rule out the easy top vacuums first, and pray its on top - otherwise what @SM105K and @802SHO are right. The vacuum hose down to the turbos will need to be investigated.
 

thenewguy

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Here you go guys, everything is rock solid connection wise, even the front wastegate line is good.https://photos.app.goo.gl/NzNnWrWf5jyavvrw7
 

thenewguy

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EASIEST WAY - and safest to find the leak. Spray bottle - add a "DROP" of soap - dish is fine, fill with water, and gently shake - spray and watch for bubbles. Rule out the easy top vacuums first, and pray its on top - otherwise what @SM105K and @802SHO are right. The vacuum hose down to the turbos will need to be investigated.
Yea will give this a try as well but vacuum hose on the front is on there, you'll see in the picd
 

thenewguy

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There are a couple of picture in that link.
Yea the front one I was able to get, rear since the pic is zoomed in so much kinda hard to locate it but will dig around and see how close I can get
 

thenewguy

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Ok guys, went to YouTube to poke around and very interesting thing I found, this guy basically created the same issue I'm having by removing the wastegate hose off that boost solenoid....if the hose is connected, I guess it brings it down to 2 things? Either that solenoid is bad or by wastegate has issues?
It happens in the first 2 mins of the video because also am seeing only 5psi of boost, I think that 7 was most likely a spike
 

kryptto

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Ok guys, went to YouTube to poke around and very interesting thing I found, this guy basically created the same issue I'm having by removing the wastegate hose off that boost solenoid....if the hose is connected, I guess it brings it down to 2 things? Either that solenoid is bad or by wastegate has issues?
It happens in the first 2 mins of the video because also am seeing only 5psi of boost, I think that 7 was most likely a spike
I would get a OBD2 reader and Forscan to see the errors being thrown. I know that is not solice but necessary.
 

kryptto

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Here you go guys, everything is rock solid connection wise, even the front wastegate line is good.https://photos.app.goo.gl/NzNnWrWf5jyavvrw7
See the oil under the hose coming from the Garrett pipe, you sure it's not leaking or split?
 

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