Bluezones build

[Bluezone]

I had a similar experience, except mine gave me some numbers I was happy with, but then when he printed the numbers they were all completely different…….makes no sense and the printed numbers were lower…….I was so confused….I did 3 runs, two runs had damn near identical numbers, then I swapped to 1 psi less boost tune and ran a little less. Every time the dyno told us the numbers on a big *** screen…like a projector on the wall….it was exciting, I sat in the car with him, numbers would show up on the projector screen in front of us…with that correction(whatever it is for weather). Then happy and excited he goes to print the numbers as I’m ready to leave and all the numbers are different now. So idk what it really was….I don’t know if ANY of the numbers are legit. Then I backed into a random truck axle on the ground as the tech ghosted me and I took the car off the dyno myself which was weird as ****, bc after the first roller I hit my brakes but my car rolled forward again onto the other roller…..I would have preferred that he drove it on and off the dyno lol! The truck axle damaged my front chin spoiler, he didn’t charge me for that dyno session…..so I left with numbers that didn’t add up and damage to my car. I have no desire to jump back on a dyno anytime soon.

It said I was about 463hp and 569tq on a 19 psi tune and 418 and 522 on a 18 psi tune. Not much cool down between the 3 runs and I think the 18 psi tune was down so much bc after a flash my OAR is lower initially. Then printing the data said the 18 psi tune was 379hp and 406tq. I only took a pic of the results of the 18 psi tune on the dyno screen, but you can see on the graph where it is now only 379/406. So I have one of the fastest (underpowered) SHO’s around. This was a Mustang dyno and I honestly couldn’t make any sense of the numbers ……it was just a complete waste of time. And fixing the chin spoiler cost me $220….the dyno was $150 that he didn’t charge me bc if that axle on the ground. So meaningless numbers and I was out $70 plus my time. View attachment 82179View attachment 82180View attachment 82181View attachment 82182View attachment 82183View attachment 82184View attachment 82185View attachment 82186View attachment 82187

Matt had a look had several logs from dead stop to straight 3rd gear pulls. He says it looks like my Boost control valve is dirty. So it's sticking and not operating smoothly, oscillating waste gate operation to control boost. Headed down to Ford dealer tomorrow to order a new one.

 

[Bluezone]

I picked up a set of 2020 Mustang rims (20 ×9 +42mm). The rims I have been using had a lower offset than stock (+35mm). I wasn't liking the steering feedback and slight vibration with new rims. I ended up having to change both rear wheel bearings. Apparently the change in offse didn't agree with them.
The Mustang rings have a 3 millimetre more of + tire offset than stock. There's a much better on Center feel. They came with Bridgestone proxus 980 all seasons. 265 30 R20.

 

[jasong_10]

I looked at a set of those, I love to look of them but wanted to get away from 20's. Ended up grabbing a very similar looking set off the 15+ Mustang GTs in an 18x8.

 

[Bluezone]

Okay I switched over to the 160 degree thermostat. At the same time also performed a drain and fill of 5 l of Motorcraft ulv transmission fluid.
I was curious as to how much ignition timing I had picked up. I made a comparison to an old log on my Livewire. Admittedly the weather conditions were different, but it was showing about 4 degrees more total ignition advance with the lower temperature thermostat.
Intake temperatures we're exactly the same at the start of the run. Intake air temperature finished 10 F degrees lower with the new thermostat. Which should result in about a 1.85% increase in air density, plus 4° increase in timing. So, optimistically, maybe 6-10 extra hp @ 34° F ambient test temperature. Both 87 octane tune, Oct 25, 2021 ambient 38°F 94 octane possibility winter gas, Mar 11, 2022 ambient 34°F 50-50 87-94 octane winter fuel mix.
What I also noticed, was that the engine RPM@MPH was lower at the same speed with the Ford ULV transmission fluid added. Roughly 200 RPM @ 3rd gear. Interesting result.

 

[76FoMoCo]

There's a saying.... Slower et is faster. And it's not wrong.

 

[Bluezone]

There's a saying.... Slower et is faster. And it's not wrong.

All Seasons vs snow tires. Just finished some small edits to the post when I got the notification.

 

[76FoMoCo]

Snows are like drag radials

 

[FiveLeeter918]

Snows are like drag radials

Blizzaks are a poor man's drag radial haha

 

[FiveLeeter918]

Okay I switched over to the 160 degree thermostat. At the same time also performed a drain and fill of 5 l of Motorcraft ulv transmission fluid.
I was curious as to how much ignition timing I had picked up. I made a comparison to an old log on my Livewire. Admittedly the weather conditions were different, but it was showing about 4 degrees more total ignition advance with the lower temperature thermostat.
Intake temperatures we're exactly the same at the start of the run. Intake air temperature finished 10 F degrees lower with the new thermostat. Which should result in about a 1.85% increase in air density, plus 4° increase in timing. So, optimistically, maybe 6-10 extra hp @ 34° F ambient test temperature. Both 87 octane tune, Oct 25, 2021 ambient 38°F 94 octane possibility winter gas, Mar 11, 2022 ambient 34°F 50-50 87-94 octane winter fuel mix.
What I also noticed, was that the engine RPM@MPH was lower at the same speed with the Ford ULV transmission fluid added. Roughly 200 RPM @ 3rd gear. Interesting result.View attachment 83340View attachment 83341

Are you able to repost these pictures with the cursor present and at the same RPM? I'm curious what's up with the spark swing you have, and if you can highlight the spark advance as well, what is the delta between the peaks and valleys in your graph? Also what is your OAR in each pull?

 

[Bluezone]

Are you able to repost these pictures with the cursor present and at the same RPM? I'm curious what's up with the spark swing you have, and if you can highlight the spark advance as well, what is the delta between the peaks and valleys in your graph? Also what is your OAR in each pull?

It's kind of hard to do a screenshot with the cursor in use to do the screenshot. LOL
The runs are different, meaning that one was a third gear pull and the other was a 0 to 80 mph with 3rd gear highlighted.
Give me a few minutes and I will attached the log files to this post.

 

[FiveLeeter918]

It's kind of hard to do a screenshot with the cursor in use to do the screenshot. LOL
The runs are different, meaning that one was a third gear pull and the other was a 0 to 80 mph with 3rd gear highlighted.
Give me a few minutes and I will attached the log files to this post.

I have a button on my keyboard that initiates a screenshot haha. It's beautimous.

 

[Bluezone]

Go ahead laugh at me heathen. LOL

 

[jasong_10]

Blizzaks are a poor man's drag radial haha

Heading to the track this summer with GY Ultragrips, lol.

 

[Bluezone]

Are you able to repost these pictures with the cursor present and at the same RPM? I'm curious what's up with the spark swing you have, and if you can highlight the spark advance as well, what is the delta between the peaks and valleys in your graph? Also what is your OAR in each pull?

What info would you like? How much the swing is on spark timing Etc. Are you able to read the logs from the live wire? I didn't realize that was a problem and thought it was just a normal adjustment. I prefer a nice smooth line but that's what I got.

 

[Bluezone]

Will tomorrow my MKS is going to the shop for an updated alignment. I was looking at the alignment specs and noticed that the 2013 up Lincoln Taurus twins had slightly different alignment specs. I like the looks of the new alignment settings. Slightly more camber in the front and even camber side to side in the rear. Plus front toe is reduced. I think this will reduce drag and might provide a better drag strip launch.

 

[Bluezone]

Okay the cars out of the shop and much happier with the way it handles and steers with the updated steering specs.

 

[stripSHO]

When you factor in the oscillations there's about a 3 degree difference in timing, 2 of which are directly attributable to the difference in OAR (.58 vs .92).

"prt sc" or print screen copies your entire screen to your clipboard. windows key + shift + S brings up a cropping tool to screenshot a selected area of your screen. Only the first method preserves the cursor line in Livelink. Unfortunately Livelink's junk scaling makes it pretty much useless for trying to convey multiple pieces of information visually.

 

[Bluezone]

Okay today I replace the torque coupling on the RDU. I did this in the car, cuz I didn't feel like tearing the entire suspension apart to drop the differential. Took longer but less work. Just waiting for the silicone to dry.

 

[802SHO]

Okay today I replace the torque coupling on the RDU. I did this in the car, cuz I didn't feel like tearing the entire suspension apart to drop the differential. Took longer but less work. Just waiting for the silicone to dry.

Nice work man!! Great job

 

[Bluezone]

Nice work man!! Great job

Well I haven't got the barcode number changed yet. It's only different by a couple of the trailing digits. I might have to inquire about what these barcodes mean exactly.
There's a noticeable difference on take off. I have wheel chatter (chirp, chirp, chirp) instead of a squawk on launch. From the looks of the Livewire log it doesn't suddenly jump to 9 mph wheel speed. Instead there's a burst of acceleration up to 9 miles per hour. Then the usual acceleration slope. Hitting the throttle in a turn now kicks the back end out, like a rear wheel drive.