Blower Control Module repair pictures

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AutoXSHO

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Guys,

Here are a few pictures and a short writeup on some issues I've found with the EATC blower control modules. Symptoms of this module failing are:

* Blower speed cannot be controlled with the EATC
* Erratic or intermittent blower operation
* Blower runs when EATC head unit indicates "OFF"

The failure mechanisms of this module are fairly widespread it seems but they all stem from one cause: corrosion. Ford saw fit to cool the module's electronics by putting it inside the heating duct. The humidity wreaks havoc on the electronics. Here are some pictures.

Here is what you are looking for. It's behind the glovebox near the ventilation ducts.

Cover.gif


This is pretty typical for how the BCMs look when they come out. Notice all the dirt around the relay (********* box) and the resistors. The red stuff is circuitboard RTV, at least Ford tried to keep them dry. The big gray part is a heat sink for the output power transistor.

BCM-1.gif


This next image shows the backside. All the little rectangles are surface mount resistors, diodes, and capacitors. This board is in pretty good shape. The arrows point to a rotted trace on the left and a rotted resistor on the right. The trace will have to be repaired by hand etch or by laying some wire down. The resistor can be replaced.

BCM-2.gif


5% Surface mount resistors are coded as follows: The first two numbers are the first two digits of the resistor. The last digit is the multiplier. So on the resistor we see:

102 would be 10 times 10 to the second = 10 * 100 = 1000. This is a 1k resistor.

682 is a 6800 or 6.8k resistor and so on.

The next picture shows the backside of the board all cleaned up with the traces repaired and the bad resistor replaced. It's hard to see, because the flash of the digital camera reflects off the copper and it's very hard to focus on the small stuff. I'll try to get a better one.

Backside-clean.gif


And here is one of the front side. This particular board's problem was a rhythmic clicking noise. Throughhole capacitor C5 (10uF, 50V) had a rotted lead and was separated from the board. I removed the relay so you can see the position of this capacitor. I replaced it with an identical electrolytic cap (remember polarity!!).

The arrows point to the new capacitor (installed) and the legless wonder on the lab table.

Frontside-clean2.gif


The relay on this board is also junk. It has a loose piece inside it, probably due to moisture and many years of use. I'm having an Omron rep cross reference a relay for me since this SPST relay's part number is not listed. Probably it was a special OEM part number for Ford. Yes, I tried looking for the Ford part number E9DF-14A640-AA that is printed on the relay: no luck.

In the meantime I'm adapting a standard SPST 30A relay to this board and it will be sent back to the owner after a thick coating of circuitboard RTV is applied to it.

Hope this helps anyone looking to repair their malfunctioning blower control module. I know the pictures aren't the greatest, but you get the idea. I have a list of all the SMT parts used on this board so if you need to replace components and can't read your rotted resistors let me know.

John V

<small>[ March 19, 2002, 01:14 PM: Message edited by: AutoXSHO ]</small>
 

ghostrider

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John that is a great write up. This past weekend my EATC started acting by fluctuation the fan speed and running when the screen says off. This started happening in the middle of a horrible rain storm. I'm sure once I pull out the BCM I would be able to tell what is causing my problem, but my question would be where did you get you components Radio Shack? Somewhere else? Also what was the outcome of the adaptation of that standard SPST 30A relay you were working on. Do you thing I would need to even look at that with the problems I'm having? Thanks again for the great write up.
 

luigisho

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Really nice job John. Thanks. Maybe you can get something in the shotimes faq for future reference.
 

pete c

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Mine only runs at full afterburner or not at all. Thought I was gonna have to replace it, but, maybe not. Thanks john.
 

Bizzy

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Awesome job! If you could send me the pics via email, I'll be glad to make up an html page for the forum with this write up. thumb
 

Doug Waschenko

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John,
Thanks for the article, I need to repair my module.
I don't know about anyone else, but I see no pictures.
Can you e-mail the pictures?
 

Doug Waschenko

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John,
Thanks for the article, I need to repair my module.
I don't know about anyone else, but I see no pictures.
Can you e-mail the pictures?
 

<BUBBA>

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Awesom! Could you E-mail me the pics? I want to try it out on the old one I just replaced.
 

jelloslug

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This kind of stuff is great! This is the only way that these cars are gonna survive when all the OEM parts are gone. Keep up the good work. thumbup
 

AutoXSHO

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Resurrecting an old topic I see...

As I told some who e-mailed me directly (which is still fine), my web server got hosed and I lost some data. I do have backups, but it will take some time to find, and I'm out of town at the moment.

The modules aren't really that difficult to repair per se. It's the parts that are hard to find.

One of the more common problems I saw was a failure of the large mechanical relay which controlled high-speed fan operation. The internal contact would break, causing either intermittent high-speed operation or no high-speed operation at all.

The installed relay has a proprietary part number (like the rest of the active parts in the BCM) but you can source a replacement and adapt it to the BCM with a little creativity looking through a Digi-Key catalog.

Unfortunately the bottom line is the BCM is a poor design from an engineering standpoint, and unless you use the A/C constantly (to remove moisture from the air ducting), the BCM will fail at some point.

As always, if you contact me with your specific problems, I can probably help you out. Questions like "My heat doesn't work. Is it my BCM and if so how do I fix it?" aren't really helpful :p

John V
I used to own a SHO...
 

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