Blend door actuator

[Scott Milligan]

Replaced mine yesterday. Passenger side was stuck on cold. The plastic cover over the wire harness is a pain to remove but pretty easy after that.I broke the cover and left it off after replacing the actuator. The actuator is the one im pointing at, the little motor failed .

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[glockcoma]

Pro tip if you’re in a pinch to fix it.
Depending which gear breaks you can remove the damaged gear and flip it then use the opposite set of teeth because of the limited travel of the gear.
This also works on the rear window shade gear.

 

[SHOrod]

If it's the big drive gear I've modeled it for 3D printing. Of course the replacement cost of the units is so reasonable that it's hard to put much time in to fixing one. Modeling the gear was primarily because it was a challenge.

 

[Zpak]

This actuator got me too... last winter. Miserable for defrosting the window. Pure cold on the passenger side. I cut out that plastic cover too. They sure don’t like to make things easy. I was a bit worried about that wire harness next to those heater lines without the cover but so far so good.

 

[Scott Milligan]

Pro tip if you’re in a pinch to fix it.
Depending which gear breaks you can remove the damaged gear and flip it then use the opposite set of teeth because of the limited travel of the gear.
This also works on the rear window shade gear.

The gears on mine looked, the motor crapped out. I do have the rear shade problem though. Mine pops and always goes right back up after hitting button.

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[Jeff2017]

I had something like that fail on my 2007 Passat. It was the motor that opens and closed the recirculation door. The motor was glued into the plastic housing and the glue failed which allowed the motor to shift just a enough so that the worm gear wasn't making good contact with the gear is was driving and it made this horrible howling sound every time I put the car into reverse which closes the recirculation door. I fixed it by folding up a napkin to 5 layers in thickness and laying on top of the motor. Then I snapped the cover back on. The napkin just got rid of the play that motor had in the housing. Saved $250 on the new part that way.

 

[Sean Patrick]

Having the same problem right now, Passenger side and the back stuck on heat, driver is ice cold as it should be.
Would the problem just be the one actuator for that? Trying not to spend that much to go get it fixed.
Any tips?

 

[ridered74]

Having the same problem right now, Passenger side and the back stuck on heat, driver is ice cold as it should be.
Would the problem just be the one actuator for that? Trying not to spend that much to go get it fixed.
Any tips?

It helps if you have tiny tiny hands. It's not really a difficult repair, it's just awkward getting to it. I think after shipping the total cost to replace mine was a little over 20 bucks.

 

[Sean Patrick]

It helps if you have tiny tiny hands. It's not really a difficult repair, it's just awkward getting to it. I think after shipping the total cost to replace mine was a little over 20 bucks.

lol aight. I have skinny arms, but hands not so much. I figured if i took it to a shop, i'd end up getting quoted like $200+ for the repair.

 

[Zpak]

Yeah, it’s not hard just awkward. And, as much as I hate being a butcher with any mechanical work there is a black plastic cover in your way. After about 45 minutes of trying every which way to get around it, ya can’t. It’s gotta go. The job though is well worth doing yourself.

 

[Zpak]

...sorry, and yes if you have drivers side climate correct and passenger the opposite, that’s the one. There is another one above the gas pedal too but the problem you’re describing is definitely the actuator behind the glove box. I actually called my ford parts department before I ordered it to troubleshoot which one it was and surprisingly they helped me.

 

[Sean Patrick]

Did you have to reset your fuse after you put in the new actuator, or did it not need it?

 

[Zpak]

No didn’t need it. I tried a bunch of stuff before I dove in to change it. 12 hour battery unplug, pulled the fuse...It wasn’t clicking like some people say they do when they quit so I wasn’t sure that’s what it was. Then later heard the newer ones don’t.

 

[ridered74]

lol aight. I have skinny arms, but hands not so much. I figured if i took it to a shop, i'd end up getting quoted like $200+ for the repair.

Probably more than that. They'd probably charge you $80-100 just for the part.

It's just awkward the way you have to lean inside the car to reach it. It might be easier if the passenger seat was removed so that you could kneel semi comfortably, but it's only two bolts that you have to suffer thru. Pro tip, get a couch cushion or something soft to put on the ground that you can kneel on while you are reaching in to get the bolts loosened/tightened.

 

[Sean Patrick]

Probably more than that. They'd probably charge you $80-100 just for the part.

It's just awkward the way you have to lean inside the car to reach it. It might be easier if the passenger seat was removed so that you could kneel semi comfortably, but it's only two bolts that you have to suffer thru. Pro tip, get a couch cushion or something soft to put on the ground that you can kneel on while you are reaching in to get the bolts loosened/tightened.

Will do, I probably won't get to put it in till this weekend or so, i'll let you know how it goes.

 

[Omar]

guys , my 2011 climate control , behaving each start , a blow to feet then windshield then a hot blow , then starts normally , that each time I start the HVAC , the blend door actuator clicking slightly but it's still working , if any one have any idea , I appreciate it.

 

[shoyz28]

I have been having the cold drivers and hot passenger vents problem intermittently for a couple or years/seasons on my 2010. It has been happening more lately since it is now hot outside. I didn't remove the black cable cover but did remove the green pushpin for the harness below the cable cover. After pulling on the harness cover to gain a bit more clearance, I was able to remove the front actuator screw and the electrical connector and back screw by feel. Use an 8mm 1/4" drive socket on a flex adapter for the rear screw.

I unsnapped the clips to separate the two actuator halves. Removed the top green circuit board, cleaned off all of the gear grease and remove the black cover from the tiny position indicator. The contacts and grid were both dirty so I cleaned them with contact cleaner/conditioner. Reassembled and working fine again. The wiring connector is blind but can be done by feel and I used some sticky window pane mastic on my finger tip to reinsert the back actuator screw.

Remove the #15 fuse, wait a few minutes, put it back in and turn the ignition to the ON position. If you listen carefully you will hear the actuator setting its limits. No need to do any other steps here as people were mis-interpreting the instructions.

 

[Hebes10]

Yeah, it’s not hard just awkward. And, as much as I hate being a butcher with any mechanical work there is a black plastic cover in your way. After about 45 minutes of trying every which way to get around it, ya can’t. It’s gotta go. The job though is well worth doing yourself.

I just finished the passenger side. What a pain! And it butchered my hand. I was able to keep the black plastic cover, but you are correct in that it is worth doing yourself. Not sure which was tougher, unscrewing the back screw or disconnecting the jumper harness.

 

[Sean Patrick]

Any tips on getting the black plastic cover off? Also it looks like the actuator in the back, and the one mounted directly to the blower are the same part number? Just making sure before i order.

 

[Hebes10]

Any tips on getting the black plastic cover off? Also it looks like the actuator in the back, and the one mounted directly to the blower are the same part number? Just making sure before i order.

All three of the actuators are the same part number - AA5Z-19E616-C or YH 1779. I didn't take the cover off so I can't offer any advice on that. Its not impossible to work around.