I posted a thred about my water pump, now i'm having a different problem. I live in the Chicago area, and lately when it's the temp. is in the teens or lower, my car will turn over slowly and not start, I bought a new battery back in Nov. when it did it the first time, them got stuck at K-mart about a week ago had no choice but to go and had to buy another battery. I'll be damned if it did it again last night. my Volts light isn't comming on and lights don't dim so don't think it's the alternator. almost like something is draning my batteries. so now I unhook the battery when I go in the house. Any ideas?
Batteries keep dying
- Thread starter EMB2580
- Start date
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Jaz2099
New Member
If I bought a battery every time one of my cars did this hmmm fact is I couldn't. Well, need more info how many miles does the car have? Does it stall or just does this after sitting? Have you checked your codes? Do you know how to check for codes? See you recently had water piump done I did too. I got lazy paid someone else and now i'm having problems, should have had them do my crank and camshaft sensors. crank or camshaft sensor couild be your problem. Maybe camshaft in this case if it just started after the cold weather? I think a leaking water pump can even leak on the crankshaft psition sensor.
Jaz2099
New Member
O.k or just take alternator off take it to be tesed buy a new one and go on your merry way.
bad voltage regulator?
Well, first off it's a '90 w/ almost 170K (but runs like a champ!!) It came from FL. so VERY little rust, I haven't done the water pump yet, it does NOT leak, I think the bearings are bad or bad T. Stat (whine sound coming for it) It doesn't stall, just won't start after sitting. Don't think there are any codes CEL deosn't come on except when starting, like all the warning lights do, Yes, I know how to check codes. Something has got to be draining the battery. might also be a bad voltage regulator who knows? let me know what you guys think!
Well, first off it's a '90 w/ almost 170K (but runs like a champ!!) It came from FL. so VERY little rust, I haven't done the water pump yet, it does NOT leak, I think the bearings are bad or bad T. Stat (whine sound coming for it) It doesn't stall, just won't start after sitting. Don't think there are any codes CEL deosn't come on except when starting, like all the warning lights do, Yes, I know how to check codes. Something has got to be draining the battery. might also be a bad voltage regulator who knows? let me know what you guys think!
Jaz2099
New Member
It is probably the alternator as I mentioned or the starter, solenoid. Have stuff tested. Unless you have loose ground, wrong battery size, new stereo or car alarm draining it. Terminals corroded? Seriously if it loses charge while car is off you must have T.V(s) cell phones, car alarms, computer radar detector something?
seraphiem
New Member
You may possibly be cooking the battery with a bad alternator. Only way to tell is to test that sucker. But first check the following...
Battery drain?
See how much current you are pulling with everything switched off. Should not pull more then 100 mA...**** even 50 mA is considered by many to be too much.
All your cables and connections clean?
Battery drain?
See how much current you are pulling with everything switched off. Should not pull more then 100 mA...**** even 50 mA is considered by many to be too much.
All your cables and connections clean?
the car does have a Pioneer CD player and who ever hooked it up did a ****** ass job, they ran their own speaker wire instead of using the car's factory wiring. But that shouldn't drain the batt. unless the wires is touching metal or something.
seraphiem
New Member
The radio SHOULD very slowly drain the battery. It needs hold up power for its clock. It just doesn't use that much so its insignificant if operating correctly.
If you suspect a power drain the only way to determine this is by measuring the current being pulled when the car is off.
Pop the ground terminal off the battery and put an ammeter/multimeter in series with the ground strap and the battery post.
You never know till you check.
Also whats your battery voltage when the car is off and with it running?
If you suspect a power drain the only way to determine this is by measuring the current being pulled when the car is off.
Pop the ground terminal off the battery and put an ammeter/multimeter in series with the ground strap and the battery post.
You never know till you check.
Also whats your battery voltage when the car is off and with it running?
seraphiem
New Member
Sorry...yes I meant to say ground or negative cable.
qiksho
SHO Addict
Doing a search will probably provide you alot of good info.
1st off like was stated before you need to get out your meter and test the alternator with the car running. You can do this by setting your meter to DC Volts 20 and putting the red (+) on the positive batter terminal and black (-) on the negative batter terminal. You should have a reading of around 14.5 or so.
If this looks good you need to do a amps draw test with the car off. Same basic principle with a different setting on your meter. Without a meter in front of my I can't tell you the correct setting however.
You could also have a direct short - although not likely as it would probably explode your battery.
1st off like was stated before you need to get out your meter and test the alternator with the car running. You can do this by setting your meter to DC Volts 20 and putting the red (+) on the positive batter terminal and black (-) on the negative batter terminal. You should have a reading of around 14.5 or so.
If this looks good you need to do a amps draw test with the car off. Same basic principle with a different setting on your meter. Without a meter in front of my I can't tell you the correct setting however.
You could also have a direct short - although not likely as it would probably explode your battery.
rangerj
Active Member
An Amp draw test is the way to go. Think about what electrical items work when the key is not in the ignition. Glove box light, under hood light, interior lights, light in the trunk, cigar lighter, alarm or security system, electric door locks (solenoids), clock, and maybe the sound system if it was wired hot.
If the switch or a relay sticks for any one of these it will "draw" electricity, and therefor amps.
Open the hood and remove the under hood light. Now set your multi meter for testing amps at about 20. Waite about 3 to 5 minutes after any door, hood, trunk, etc has been opened and shut if the car has an alarm. Test for amps with the meter. It is normal for the clock and alarm to draw about 5 to 15 mili-amps. If you are not getting a reading at the 20 amp setting set the meter to the next lower setting. Remember the mili-amp setting on the meter is protected by a fuse. If you use the setting and there is a greater amp draw it will blow the fuse.
If you get an amp draw reading on the meter you then pull 1 fuse at a time to see if that stops the draw. If the fuse does not stop the draw put it back in! then go to the next one. When you find the fuse that stops the draw, that is the circuit that has the problem. Find out what is on that circuit and start testing for a short, a bad switch, or a stuck relay.
Before starting any test, check all of the interior lights, trunk light, glove box light, under hood light (look from under the car),cigar lighter, and see if any of them are "on".
If you are not getting any unusual amp draw the alternator may not be charging the battery. It could be a loose belt, poor connection (loose or corroded), or a failure in the alternator. You could also have corroded battery cables, poorly connected, corroded or dirty cable connections. Check the main ground at the engine block, check the starter and solenoid connections, and the ground to the inner fender well near the battery.
If the switch or a relay sticks for any one of these it will "draw" electricity, and therefor amps.
Open the hood and remove the under hood light. Now set your multi meter for testing amps at about 20. Waite about 3 to 5 minutes after any door, hood, trunk, etc has been opened and shut if the car has an alarm. Test for amps with the meter. It is normal for the clock and alarm to draw about 5 to 15 mili-amps. If you are not getting a reading at the 20 amp setting set the meter to the next lower setting. Remember the mili-amp setting on the meter is protected by a fuse. If you use the setting and there is a greater amp draw it will blow the fuse.
If you get an amp draw reading on the meter you then pull 1 fuse at a time to see if that stops the draw. If the fuse does not stop the draw put it back in! then go to the next one. When you find the fuse that stops the draw, that is the circuit that has the problem. Find out what is on that circuit and start testing for a short, a bad switch, or a stuck relay.
Before starting any test, check all of the interior lights, trunk light, glove box light, under hood light (look from under the car),cigar lighter, and see if any of them are "on".
If you are not getting any unusual amp draw the alternator may not be charging the battery. It could be a loose belt, poor connection (loose or corroded), or a failure in the alternator. You could also have corroded battery cables, poorly connected, corroded or dirty cable connections. Check the main ground at the engine block, check the starter and solenoid connections, and the ground to the inner fender well near the battery.
ohfosho
ontario SHOwner
you did mention a whining sound? check that it could be your alternator siezing up...maybe the belt could show damage if this is so. that would explain not proper charging
1995mtxsho
SHO Member
Similar symptoms have happened with mine also, I found that the starter will randomly be reluctant to turn on occasion. Has good voltage, but will barely crank. After repeted attempts it would eventually fire right up. I diagnosed it to be cased by a sloppy oil change where oil has got on/into the starter/relay and has gummed it up and/or created a short.
Could this be your case as well?
Could this be your case as well?
My alt/a.c/c.s/ belt looks in pretty good condition but squkes like a SOB, esp. if turn on the hvac to ac, heat or def. my w.p/p.s belt has no grooves on the underside, I mean I see them but don't feel them, LOL!
Well guys, I went down to Pep Boys today to do get a charging system test. After waiting over an hour, they said my battery and alternator are fine but charged the battery and tightened my alt. belt and that I need a new one, it has a few cracks in. Alas....I don't have the eardrum piercing squeal anymore!! My mom's bf still thinks I have a power drain somewhere. I hope not!! Let me know what you think guys.
DVJ38
New Member
You should buy a volt meter to really determine what is happening. You could have surface discharge that is draining your battery. Or you might possibly have a parrasitic drain loss where even if the car is off, something is using voltage.
If you have a volt meter and would like to check for surface discharge you just need to connect one lead from the volt meter to the proper terminal and the other lead on the top of the battery. Touch different places on the top. It should read close to zero. If you don't have a meter, you can deffintly clean the top with baking soda and water to stop this. I had lots of dirt, etc. on the top of my battery and it was reading up to 10 volts! I cleaned it up with baking soda and water and a brush, then cleaned it and now it reads a few thousanths of a volt. No more leak.
You can also check static voltage by just touching the leads of the meter to the proper terminals on the battery. A strong battery should read 12.68 or higher. 12.54 or around there is 75% IIRC.
You can also check for a parrasitic drain loss but dissconecting one terminal and putting a jumper wire from the cable to the terminal and connecting the meter at the ends of the jumper wire. There shouldn't be too much of a difference. If there is you have a problem.
The stereo wiring shouldn't cause battery drain, even if wire was touching somewhere. If bare wire was touching bare metal, there would be a short, and a speaker or something wouldn't work. There might also be a blown fuse.
PS, if I messed something above up, please correct me as I'm just learning about this stuff in school.
Hope I helped a little.
If you have a volt meter and would like to check for surface discharge you just need to connect one lead from the volt meter to the proper terminal and the other lead on the top of the battery. Touch different places on the top. It should read close to zero. If you don't have a meter, you can deffintly clean the top with baking soda and water to stop this. I had lots of dirt, etc. on the top of my battery and it was reading up to 10 volts! I cleaned it up with baking soda and water and a brush, then cleaned it and now it reads a few thousanths of a volt. No more leak.
You can also check static voltage by just touching the leads of the meter to the proper terminals on the battery. A strong battery should read 12.68 or higher. 12.54 or around there is 75% IIRC.
You can also check for a parrasitic drain loss but dissconecting one terminal and putting a jumper wire from the cable to the terminal and connecting the meter at the ends of the jumper wire. There shouldn't be too much of a difference. If there is you have a problem.
The stereo wiring shouldn't cause battery drain, even if wire was touching somewhere. If bare wire was touching bare metal, there would be a short, and a speaker or something wouldn't work. There might also be a blown fuse.
PS, if I messed something above up, please correct me as I'm just learning about this stuff in school.
Hope I helped a little.
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