Bargain basement SHO: help me get this up and running (long)

[Liquid_force]

I've agreed in principle to purchase a '99 locally.

I have a laundry list of repairs I will be making before I make it my DD.

I want to try to assemble a "how-to" in one location that will help me get all this accomplished.
A check list of tools/supplies/parts will eventually be included as well.
So if you can take a minute and dig up a link or provide some suggestions based on personal experience I'd really appreciate it.

I am an average home mechanic, but I have zero experience with this motor. I have been reading a lot and looking at a lot of pictures.

Step one will be cam weld prep.
I will definitely reference the cam weld procedure from v8sho. What I would like to add to that is a set of instructions for a welder. I have a welder locally who is willing to do the work, but they asked me to bring some information on exactly what is req'd.
So to those of you that do general welding, or have welded these cams, what would you want to know if you were doing these welds for the first time?

Other maintenance during cam weld tear down?
I plan to put in new plugs. Don't really know otherwise.

Step two - more of a step 1b, will be to fix a miss. Based on my reading mainly on this site I believe it's a coil. A code scan should tell me what cylinder is missing, right?
Hopefully this can be done fairly easily while it's open.
I will probably have the codes scanned the day I take possession which I believe will be Thursday.

Three - brakes.
Fronts definitely, pads/rotors. I will probably let the rears go for now as long as the pads have some wear left and the rotors aren't too thin. Any tricks to compressing the pistons? On my '88 Turbo Coupe the pistons had to be rotated while they were compressed.

Four - a/c.
It's intermittent. Sounds like it may be a shim issue. It's cold when it decides to run. I might put this on the back burner since cool weather is just around the corner. Which brings up another concern...I hope the heater works. I never checked that!
Any way to diagnose whether or not it IS the shims?

After that it will be mainly cosmetic issues. Driver's seat leather is torn (estimated repairs appx $100), clear coat is in bad shape with other minor dents/scratches (estimate appx $800). Windows need tint.

I have a decent basic set of tools. Metric sockets - 1/4" 3/8" 1/2" drive, tq wrench - 3/8" 1/2" drive.
I've read that ratcheting wrenches are handy. I'll pick up a set if they're necessary, or close to it. I'd like a 1/4" tq wrench, but those things aren't cheap.
What are the chemicals I need to soften and reuse the valve cover gaskets?

 

[luigisho]

I'm not sure if a code reader will indicate which coil is failing. I usually replace the 4 in the rear bank and then move forward. It's good peace of mind to have known good coils in the rear so you don't have to remove the rear intake surge tank to go back in. I wouldn't worry about the ratcheting wrenches until you get to the suspension.
Brakes are easy if you've done them before.
I forget the chemicals but they are in old posts if you use advanced search option in the v8 section

 

[SHOZ123]

The chemicals for softening the gaskets are lacquer thinner and rislone oil treatment. Soak in the thinner until soft, then soak in the rislone for 24 hours.

Ratcheting wrenches are good for the intake tank removal.

 

[sperold]

For the front brakes you will need a 3 or 4 inch "C-clamp" to compress the piston and it doesn't need to be high quality. I used a 3" on my 95, which has a similar caliper. The rear pistons rotate down, and you always need a little tool to "drive" the piston divots or dents to rotate it. You may need to loosen the bleeder screw on the rear ones to get the rotation started. The fronts are easier. Take some fluid out of the master cylinder to avoid overflowing it when you push the pistons back.

There is a great write up on the cam welding on this forum (but I don't know where).
It has pictures of where the sprocket should be located (to ensure it has not started its "walk" yet), and is very detailed and the pictures are good.
Make sure your "miss" is not the beginning of the cam walk as I have heard there is sometimes an early warning symptom that feels like a miss.
If you can't find it with a search, post on here to get the details, as this is the important one. Ask something like "how can you tell if the cams are OK" or "what reference is used to see if drive gear on the cam has moved yet".
Good luck on the project.
It is nice to see a SHO get saved.

 

[Funmart6]

Great info in this post!!!

 

[Liquid_force]

bought it thurs. $1600 w/ 90k, they were asking 2500. Pretty hard deal to pass up i thought.

with the tc rear cals i could compress them w/needlenose pliers.
Brakes shouldn't be much of a prob. I've done 6 or 8 sets on 4 or 5 different cars.
Ceramic fronts organic rears? Any brand suggestions? I don't need or even want the best performing stuff i can get. Affordability and longevity is what i'm looking for.

My main concern is the cam tear down/rebuild.
That engine compartment looks pretty intimidating.

 

[luigisho]

Don't skimp on brake pads. Skimp on rotors. With several different pads in the last few years I've seen alot of performance difference and might switch from ceramics to something with better bite. Ceramics really are quiet and low dust though.

 

[Liquid_force]

began disassembly tonight which, as expected, brought up another question.

What do I do about the intake gaskets. Mine are shot and a couple stores I'm familar with on line don't appear to carry them.

 

[luigisho]

Is the coating flaking off? I got lower intake gaskets from a discounted oem dealer online.

 

[Liquid_force]

I had to use a razor blade to scrape off some of the black plastic pieces that stuck to the intake.
Most of the gasket is still in place. Maybe by SHO standards they're still ok to be used, but I can't help but think - if SHO parts were readily available nobody would be reusing these gaskets.

 

[sperold]

Don't fret about the gaskets yet, you will get suggestions on how to rework or save the old ones, so don't clean up things too much just yet before you get all your options.
Glad you got the car and good luck.
I don't think you are going to be pounding your car, so I would go on Rockauto and get some brakes / pads that you can afford now. You can put on the ultimate set-up when the car has proven itself.
Take lots of pictures as they will help you when you put it back together. Tape and label everything no matter how obvious it is.

 

[SHOZ123]

They are painted metal gaskets. Just clean them up without distorting them and when you go to put the intake back together spray with cheap black rattle can paint. Assemble wet.

 

[NebraskaSHO]

Paul is right. Just clean them with a rag and carb cleaner, let dry. Then bomb them with black engine paint and reassemble while wet.