Ball joints?

[SHO--ripper]

What is the easiest way to remove and reinstall these. I'm going to be doing my halfshaft seal this weekend and want to get a heads up on what i need. Special tool for the CV?

 

[89 black SHO mtx]

which seal are you doing the tranny seal or hub bearing seal???

 

[89 black SHO mtx]

if its the tranny seals its easy. i don't remember what size the axle nut is but its between a 30 and 36 mm. that and a seal puller shoud be all you need speacial. the best way to replace them is to raise the front end and support it (away from the lower control arms). pull the wheels,then the axle nut(could be a self locking nut or a cotter pin,can't remember which shrug ), then take the lower ball joint retaining bolt out(sets at a 90 degree angle with the ball joint), you might need to spread the spindle just a bit so the ball joint will slip out, take a pry bar and pry down on the lower control arm(enough that the ball joint comes out of the spindle), now push the axle out of the hub bearing, now take an elastic cord (bungie??)and hold the spindle back toward the rear of the car. take the pry bar and pop the axle out of the tranny(careful not to puncture the boot or seperate the inner joint) then take the seal puller and pull the seal out of the tranny, now tap the new one in annd reverse the procedure to reinstall. not the tech manual but useable instructions

 

[sdpatt]

The front hub nut is 30mm and the rear is 36mm.

 

[SHO--ripper]

My car is leaking trans fluid from the passenger side where the halfshaft goes into the diff. I am assuming that it is the trans seal that is leaking. Anything else i should replace while i have everything apart?

 

[rangerj]

SHO--Ripper,

Before you raise the vehicle loosen the axel nut. It is a lock-nut and should NOT be reused, but replaced (Auto parts store). The pinch bolt and its lock nut should also be replaced, and not reused (per the Helm manual).

If you want to replace the ball joints, then replace the whole lower control arm. It will have a new ball joint and all new bushings for about $85 each. The nut that holds the strut support rod to the lower control arm is also a lock nut, and should be replaced.

You may have to tap on the end of the axel to push it out of the hub. Put the old nut on the end of the axel to protect the threads when you do this.

To hold down on the lower control arm, in order to get the ball joint stud out of the strut, try using a bottle jack. Place the lower end of the jack at the intersection of the lower control arm and the strut.

Place the upper end of the jack at the lower edge of the inner fender well. Protect both surfaces (where you place the jack), with scraps of wood. This is much easier than trying to use a prybar to hold down on the strut and manuver the strut and axel at the same time.

You can put a prybar between the rear of the inner CV joint, and the transaxel, and "POP" the axel out of the trans. Be ready to catch the red fluid! If you just pop it loose, you can get a pan under the trans before the rush of fluid. Then pull it out.

Use a torque wrench and torque everthing to specification as you reassemble everthing. Replace the cotter pin on the tie rod end for safety!
Hope this helps, rangerj

 

[SHO--ripper]

Thanks for all the info. I'm sure it will be very helpful when i replace the seal this weekend. I will let you know how it turns out.