what kind of flywheel do you reccomend. it will see the track and strip sometimes and see the road maybe twice a week.
back from hiatus looking for some clutch insight
- Thread starter inverse1216
- Start date
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SHODWN
Mother Threasa
Depends on what you use the car for..
It is a track car?
is it a drag car?
Is it a street car that will see some abuse..
Unless its a track car all of the time stay away from the 8lb or any AL fly wheel. Some will say that they love it but its a false statement after relizing what they f'd up. and know they have to live with it.
Go with a billett wheel, or a lightened steel wheel.. Im bringing these back in a few weeks. Ive been getting emails about making them again so what the heck.. right..
It is a track car?
is it a drag car?
Is it a street car that will see some abuse..
Unless its a track car all of the time stay away from the 8lb or any AL fly wheel. Some will say that they love it but its a false statement after relizing what they f'd up. and know they have to live with it.
Go with a billett wheel, or a lightened steel wheel.. Im bringing these back in a few weeks. Ive been getting emails about making them again so what the heck.. right..
32MTX
New Member
I have the shousource 8lb aluminum flywheel
clutchnet pressure plate and clutch disc
and a ceramic TOB
I like it!
and its held up good so far, I give it daily beatings, quick hard shifts are the normal, and I've been to the strip a few times with it. I screw up my mounts, axles, and suspension before my drivetrain takes a hit.
TWO THINGS:
1) if you get a lighter flywheel, get a better pressure plate with upgraded straps
2) The lighter aluminum flywheel will make it easier to stall the motor, mine also chatters slightly on take-off. Neither are really a big deal. I drove a 350z yesterday and that engine would bog down and stall way easier then my SHO with the 8lb flywheel, and that car was all stock. Sure it might make a difference, but when you compare it to other cars on the road, its not that bad.
clutchnet pressure plate and clutch disc
and a ceramic TOB
I like it!
and its held up good so far, I give it daily beatings, quick hard shifts are the normal, and I've been to the strip a few times with it. I screw up my mounts, axles, and suspension before my drivetrain takes a hit.
TWO THINGS:
1) if you get a lighter flywheel, get a better pressure plate with upgraded straps
2) The lighter aluminum flywheel will make it easier to stall the motor, mine also chatters slightly on take-off. Neither are really a big deal. I drove a 350z yesterday and that engine would bog down and stall way easier then my SHO with the 8lb flywheel, and that car was all stock. Sure it might make a difference, but when you compare it to other cars on the road, its not that bad.
inverse1216
SHO Member
here is the distruction..
SHODWN
Mother Threasa
Well you sure as heck got your money out of that one.. Looks like 5k of driving with a bad clutch.
inverse1216
SHO Member
car has about 105k on it so yeah id say i got my moneys worth. looking forward to puttin the southbend in and lighter flywheel
inverse1216
SHO Member
anyone here have a problem with the shifter shaft bushings being extremely tight? the top one went in easy and the shaft slid through but the bottom one was extremely tight and i can barely get the shaft through. any thoughts? oh and how the **** do you get the quill sleeve off? cut it?
frosho
WOLFMAN
Are they new bushings from SHO Source? If they are, contact them. I am having the same issue.
inverse1216
SHO Member
yes they are from shosource. i will email them and see if they are having an issue with them. anyone know if there are any other options for bushings? i would like to get this put back together. still looking for input on the quill sleeve. thanks
frosho
WOLFMAN
SHONUT has some in the clutch section.
For the quill sleeve, I used a Dremel with some kind of skinny grinding bit to CAREFULLY make a groove down the entire length of it (other than the ****** at the end, don't need to go through at), and then used a flat head screwdriver to split the sleeve down the groove. It should loosen up enough to pull it off without needing to grind through the flared end that butts up against the trans. Just remember to be real careful not to grind too deep and damage the aluminum underneath.
There's a thread somewhere around here with good pictures that illustrate the process. I'll see if I can find it.
For the quill sleeve, I used a Dremel with some kind of skinny grinding bit to CAREFULLY make a groove down the entire length of it (other than the ****** at the end, don't need to go through at), and then used a flat head screwdriver to split the sleeve down the groove. It should loosen up enough to pull it off without needing to grind through the flared end that butts up against the trans. Just remember to be real careful not to grind too deep and damage the aluminum underneath.
There's a thread somewhere around here with good pictures that illustrate the process. I'll see if I can find it.
frosho
WOLFMAN
Okay, you don't want a light flywheel for your car, that's fine, but don't tell the rest of us that we're wrong and just lying when we say we like them.
I was perfectly happy with my Fidanza, in fact, it was less of a difference than I expected, given what some people say.
I took it out of the car because I am having an even lighter flywheel/clutch setup made, and this is still for a predominately street car with some track use.
My daily beater needs a new clutch, and I'm even thinking of throwing the Fidanza in that, just because I'll be in there anyway and it's sitting on a shelf right now. I wouldn't do that if I thought I had "f'd up".
Sorry for the rant...
Now, strangely enough, I wouldn't recommend a Fidanza for a mild street car. Not that it's crap, I think it's fine, but not worth the extra money. Keep the stocker flywheel, and get a stock reinforced clutch. Even if you run some nitrous or something, it'll hold fine.
inverse1216
SHO Member
platoribs
Live to Drive
Andy, here for your learning pleasure...
If your not boosted or juicing... use the standard OE clutch plate, use a pressure plate with reinforced straps, don't go putting a bunch of expensive crap in there... your car doesn't need it and will not be able to utilize the strengths you just paid extra for...
:wave:
If your not boosted or juicing... use the standard OE clutch plate, use a pressure plate with reinforced straps, don't go putting a bunch of expensive crap in there... your car doesn't need it and will not be able to utilize the strengths you just paid extra for...
:wave:
inverse1216
SHO Member
to late haha all the clutch parts are in i just need to solve this tob bushing shaft problem. the bushings i got are clearly way to tight the inner diameter of the bushing is smaller then the outer diameter of the shaft. once in there you can not move the tob shaft by hand. this is clearly not going to work and im trying to find a solution. id like to get this all buttoned up but this is holding me back. have you done this on your car chris? any issues?
frosho
WOLFMAN
Go back to the SHONUT site. Look at the part directly under the two you saw that are obsolete. You're looking for this: Teflon impregnated, alumina ceramic coated aluminum TOB release shaft bushing. He sells them for $30.28 plus $10 S&H.
I ordered these bushings last Monday and installed them on Sunday, because I was having the exact same issue with the SHO Source bushings. The SHONUT bushings fit great, and I'm thoroughly enjoying driving my SHO again after going through the clutch job from ****.
EDIT: Don't forget to **** the bushings (inside and out) with silicone grease per Josh's instructions - http://shonutperformance.com/teflon.htm
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