Audio help

[fast4door]

Ok tired of the stock stereo in my 92. I plan on running infinity's in the front and rear with a sony headunit. What harness is needed to sintall the headunit and bypass the stock amp? The headunit should be able to power the speakers correct? Now for the sub I am going to run a 10" rockford fosgate, now can this be ran on the stock sub amp? Just wanting something that has a nice sound, not to worried about it thumping hard. So what all do i need to buy to get this stuff in the car?

Joe

 

[hawkeye18]

There are two speaker connectors in every SHO (that I've seen, anyway); a square 8-plug connector that goes to the amp, and a flat rectangular 8-pin connector that goes directly to the speakers. You will want to get the amp bypass kit for the Taurus that features this flat 8-pin connector.

Your head unit should be able to power all four corners, but it will not be optimal. Remember, an object that attempts to perform many things at once usually doesn't do any of them very well - just the nature of the beast. It will, however, work just fine for 85% of the people out there.

Make sure you unplug the stock amp's output if you do this; you will blow fuses like a champ if you don't! Having two amps hooked up to each other will result in the weaker one (head unit) blowing fuses... or worse.

I would say unplug everything back there, but if you want to use the stock sub amp then obviously you can't disable the input to the corner amp.

And... therein lies your problem. The sub amp gets its signal directly from the corner amp (silver). If your input signal doesn't go into the corner amp, then... well, I think you can figure it out.

Another problem is that the stock sub amp is (I *think*) 75wRMS@6 ohms. This will get you about 90wRMS@4 ohms. In a perfect world, it'd be 100w, but the world ain't perfect.

This is not enough for most 10" subs. Yes, it will drive it, but it won't be very loud... and, you must remember, that amp is - at the very least - 13 years old. Electronics degrade over time and the signal (and sound) will degrade as a result.

Any modestly decent head unit will have at least one set of pre-outs. Do yourself a favor and buy a nice, decent sub amp (the Alpine MRP-T350 comes to mind [it's what I have ]) that leaves you room for expansion. I say this because you -will- want more. It's human nature. I started out with one JL10W0, and that just wasn't enough. I have 2 10W1s now and that's enough for me - for now - but my wife has 2 10W3s, and they pound like the dickens.

But I digress. You can run the stock sub amp without the stock corner amp... but not easily. It's easier... and, in the end, more rewarding, if you get a real sub amp.

 

[only1me]

Read this

http://www.shoforum.com/showthread.php?t=84087&highlight=aftermarket

 

[newby92]

just replace everything... it took me one day and you can do it for not alot of cash and the quality you get in the end is soooooooo much better than any of the factory stuff.

let me start off by saying that powering aftermarket surround speakers with a headunit is a bad idea. headunits suck at powering speakers. as said before they are meant to do one thing, and that is do read cd's and play radio, not amplify signal. yes they can do and yes they are getting better but compared to a seperate amp they are still horrible. it will sound a lil better than stock but not by much. the surrounds, especially alpines are very power hungry and will please you very well the more power you feed them. so get a 4 channel amp that puts out at least 100 watts per channel and they will sound so much better.

as far as the sub goes... same rules apply, buy an amp. the sub will sound so much better with even 200watts rms. you can build a complete system that sounds good from walmart. think i am joking i did it for less than $500.

heres the list i am running and it is very musical, dont get me wrong it wont shake the car next to me but im not really into that. i listen to many different types of music and have the ability to set up the system to fit each. the only piece that didnt come from walmart is the surround amp. i feel this is the most important part of a system.

headunit: pioneer 4900i with mp3 capability and 3 sets of 6 volt rca's
surrounds: basic pioneer 6x8" rears, pioneer 6.5" components in the front
surround amp: mtx 6304, mine was tested and put out 67.5watts rms per channel
sub amp: pioneer 760watts sub amp
sub: basic pioneer 12" single voice coil in a custom 1.25 cubic foot box.
wiring: dual amp wiring kit

 

[fast4door]

There are two speaker connectors in every SHO (that I've seen, anyway); a square 8-plug connector that goes to the amp, and a flat rectangular 8-pin connector that goes directly to the speakers. You will want to get the amp bypass kit for the Taurus that features this flat 8-pin connector.

Your head unit should be able to power all four corners, but it will not be optimal. Remember, an object that attempts to perform many things at once usually doesn't do any of them very well - just the nature of the beast. It will, however, work just fine for 85% of the people out there.

Make sure you unplug the stock amp's output if you do this; you will blow fuses like a champ if you don't! Having two amps hooked up to each other will result in the weaker one (head unit) blowing fuses... or worse.

I would say unplug everything back there, but if you want to use the stock sub amp then obviously you can't disable the input to the corner amp.

And... therein lies your problem. The sub amp gets its signal directly from the corner amp (silver). If your input signal doesn't go into the corner amp, then... well, I think you can figure it out.

Another problem is that the stock sub amp is (I *think*) 75wRMS@6 ohms. This will get you about 90wRMS@4 ohms. In a perfect world, it'd be 100w, but the world ain't perfect.

This is not enough for most 10" subs. Yes, it will drive it, but it won't be very loud... and, you must remember, that amp is - at the very least - 13 years old. Electronics degrade over time and the signal (and sound) will degrade as a result.

Any modestly decent head unit will have at least one set of pre-outs. Do yourself a favor and buy a nice, decent sub amp (the Alpine MRP-T350 comes to mind [it's what I have ]) that leaves you room for expansion. I say this because you -will- want more. It's human nature. I started out with one JL10W0, and that just wasn't enough. I have 2 10W1s now and that's enough for me - for now - but my wife has 2 10W3s, and they pound like the dickens.

But I digress. You can run the stock sub amp without the stock corner amp... but not easily. It's easier... and, in the end, more rewarding, if you get a real sub amp.

Took your advice and did it right. Got the stereo in it over the weekend. Went with a sony head unit. Infinity refrence speakers in the doors and rear shelf, 12'' Infinity Sub and a an Alpine - 500W Class D Mono MOSFET Amplifier with Adjustable Crossover. Love the sound, cant beleive I took so long to do this

Joe

 

[newby92]

nice to hear your install went well. so are you running the surround speakers off the head unit?

 

[fast4door]

yeah for now and they dont sound bad at all. My next upgraded will be a good amp for the surround speakers

Joe

 

[93rev2sev]

Did you bypass all the speaker wiring and install your own wires or are you using the chassis supplied speaker wire?

 

[fast4door]

Using the chassis supplied wires. Just bypassed the stock amps. Cant get over how great the stereo sounds. Makes the car a pleasure to drive again

Joe

 

[shoofff1]

just unplug the stock speaker amp and running the after market sub off of the stock sub amp is not a good idea what sub are yuo going to use ill help yuo find an amp