Attempted to regap A/C clutch and now problems

[MilTownSHO]

In my 92 the A/C would cut out once the car had been running for a bit, if you turned it off, it would work for awhile agian. My previous red 92 had the same problem and was fixed with the A/C clutch regap procedure.

So tonight me and 93redatx attempted to regap the new 92's A/C clutch only to have difficulty getting the bolt that holds the clutch on off to access the shims. It was getting late, so we gave up and I went on my way home.

But...now I notice if I have anything on that uses the compressor (Auto setting, etc.) and I get on it (aka floor my car), I occasionally get this high pitched sound which I am relating to what we did tonight for one reason. When we were trying to get the clutch out to get access to the shims, we were using a screw driver to attempt to stop it from spinning so we could remove the nut. Is it possible I damaged the clutch more doing that?

My other thought is, my car has underdrive pulleys which I know can make the A/C not work as well in the city, but it shouldn't get flat warm right? I can see the clutch stop engaging after awhile.

Any help is appreciated!

 

[Mr Anonymous]

Is it possible I damaged the clutch more doing that?

Probably.

 

[rangerj]

Where did you stick the screwdriver? If you stuck it between the clutch surfaces you may have gouged(scratched or nicked) the surfaces. Applying pressure with the screwdriver at an angle to the bearing could also have an affect. The sound you describe sounds like (no pun intended) a bearing problem.

There is a special tool made to hold the clutch face in order to remove the nut or bolt that holds the clutch face in place. You do not need this tool.

You can hold the clutch face with a "Strap Wrench" (Sears at about $20 for two) and loosen the nut (or bolt). Then, there is a special tool used to "pull" the clutch face off of the compressor crankshaft. You do not need this tool either. Use a couple of wood shims placed between the surfaces of the clutch and gently drive them between the surfaces. They should be placed 180 degrees from each other.

DO NOT USE two screwdrivers, or other metal tools, that can damage the clutch surfaces.

Before you do any of this check and mesure the clutch "GAP". If the gap is .010 to narrow, then you need a .010 thick washer to correct the gap. This way you do not have to correct the gap by "trial and ERROR".

If you have a 92, then the compressor pulley bearing should be available as a replacement part. I have replaced bearings in a 1989, a 1990, and a 1991, so if the 92 is the same clutch pulley it (bearing) should be replaceable.

If you are going to get into replacing the bearing let us know and I'll post some helpful hints on how to get it done right, and the easiest way(IMHO) possible. rangerj

 

[93redATX]

We were trying to hold it on the rivets, with the handle kinda wedged up into the core support. I guess I should have thought about the strap wrench, since I've got a few of them in my toolbox

As an aside, SHOtimes shouldn't be recommended for this service, then, as the procedure says to use screwdrivers to hold the clutch

 

[MilTownSHO]

DO NOT USE two screwdrivers, or other metal tools, that can damage the clutch surfaces.

If you are going to get into replacing the bearing let us know and I'll post some helpful hints on how to get it done right, and the easiest way(IMHO) possible. rangerj

Then that should be removed from SHOTIMES as Andy said, to late now!

Anyhow, is that a hard job to do, expensive?

 

[rangerj]

Please do not misunderstand my post. The use of a screwdriver in order to leverage against the torque of a wrench on the clutch face nut or bolt is OK, if done properly, or if the nut or bolt is not "frozen in place". However if you lever against the wrong part of the clutch you can damage it. I prefer to use a spanner wrench, or if you do not have one, a "Strap wrench" will also work. The "Strap Wrench" applies torque evenly around the circumference of the cluch face and will not do any damage.

In order to change the bearing in the clutch pulley, it has to be removed. It is held in place with a "snap ring". Use snap ring pliers to remove it. Notice that the snap ring has a "beveled" side. The beveled side must face outward when the snap ring is installed.

The bearing is held in from the back side of the pulley. There is a spring about the same diameter as a paper clip. It should be GENTLY (so you do not distort it) removed from the groove it sets in.

Once the spring is removed the bearing can be pressed out using a "C-clamp" as a press. Use a socket to push out the bearing and a couple of pieces of wood to support the pulley and the other end orf the C-clamp.

Press in the new bearing with the "C-clamp" using a socket about 2/3 to 3/4 the size of the new bearing to push in the bearing until it bottoms. Put the spring back in and put the pulley back on the cpompressor with the snap ring. Remember the beveled side faces you.

Before you even start any of this, make sure you can get a replacement bearing. If they tell you it is not available for your model year, ask them to check if the clutch for a 90, or 91, is the same part as your year. If they are the same part, then the bearing for a 90 should be the same. You can remove the old bearing and measure it and make sure the new bearing is the same BEFORE you buy it.

Ford used the same compressor on the SHOs (10P15F) up through at least 1995, so thre clutch should also be the same if it has a 6 ribbed pulley. If the pulley is the same, it stands to reason that the bearing would be the same.

Does anyone know if the clutch, pulley, or bearing had been "re-engineered" after 1991? Is there a difference between the ATX and MTX compressor and or clutch or pulley?

A bearing is about $30, but do your research before you put out any money. Before you assume it is a bad bearing remove the belt and spin the clutch pulley and listen to it. Does it sound "dry"? Is it making noise? Does the pulley have any "wobble" or looseness to it?

In order to get at the snap-ring you may have to remove the compressor bolts and angle the compressor. This is a matter of not having enough room to get at it any other way. You do not have to remove any of the A/C lines to do this. You may be able to access the snap ring by going through the wheel well and removing the "splash shield", but I find this to be more of a PIA than removing the 4 compressor bolts and angling the compressor. rangerj

 

[AutoSHO]

Underdrive pulleys have no affect on the air conditioning if the Crank pulley is not changed (SS UDPs do not).