are my subframe bolts going to come out ?

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SHOOFF508

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looking at doing subframe bushings shortly within the next week or two.
had a few recomendations from a few people.
was going to go aluminum but after reading the fittment horror stories on here im a little scared.
am i going to need those 2 recall hardware kits or can i just zip the old bolts out and reuse, i do have a lift an a ballsy impact gun....
 

techi14

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mine came out and didn't even break the nuts. I used a Big ass 4 foot steel bar for leverage though. Good luck they should come out.
 

crazy_canadian

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3 of my bolts broke, and the last one, the nut splitted in half.
You should have the recall kits in case of. But if they are original, I would replace them anyway, and put a big coat of anti-seize.
 

ras2433

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I went with aluminum SFB and bolt recall kit. On my 92 5spd. and my 94 auto.
I have had no problems. I can actually feel the difference on the auto but not on the manual. It is a good idea to check them after a couple of hundred miles.
 

SHOZ123

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Be sure to grease up or use never seize on all the parts where the aluminum and steel make contact. Otherwise you will get the aluminum/steel mungus.
 

thecrew2999

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since your using a lift. if you get to the point the nut plate comes loose and you cant get the bolt to come out a little trick you can try is to lift the car a little higher so the subframe is a tad higher then the jackstands so it puts pressure on the nut plate and holds it still.

those tabs can be a PITA
after i put the recall kit in the front ones i tried to align the tabs best i could but as for the rear ones i just used a wrench to grab the nut plate.

you might also need to hog out the front holes so you can access the nut plates home and remove the old one or even to tighten the front one.

best of luck
 

SHOOFF508

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its tough to visualize what your talking about but i will see soon enough. im guessing the thing the bolts screw into have a tab and are seated above the subframe, and once i have the bushings out i have to sneak a screwdriver up there and pop em out.
 

Storm-Chaser

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Given that you're in MA, the car should have had the recall kit installed already. The "kit" consists of (2) of each of the following: a) heavy duty replacement nut plates; b) subframe bolts; c) large washers for the subframe bolt; and, d) large rubber plugs for the access hole that is cut into the floor.

The subframe bolts are not torque-to-yield, and re-using them is a judgement call.

However, DO NOT use an impact to remove/install the bolts. The recall kits are nothing more than reinforced nut-plates - they do not reinforce nor protect the mounting-tabs. Thus the hammering action of the impact will increase the probability of shearing the tabs off.


looking at doing subframe bushings shortly within the next week or two.
had a few recomendations from a few people.
was going to go aluminum but after reading the fittment horror stories on here im a little scared.
am i going to need those 2 recall hardware kits or can i just zip the old bolts out and reuse, i do have a lift an a ballsy impact gun....


:burnout:
 

itwonder

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looking at doing subframe bushings shortly within the next week or two.
had a few recomendations from a few people.
was going to go aluminum but after reading the fittment horror stories on here im a little scared.
am i going to need those 2 recall hardware kits or can i just zip the old bolts out and reuse, i do have a lift an a ballsy impact gun....

Hold on partner! IMO, the last thing you want is a big impact wrench, especially on the front bolts. The nutplate tabs up in the frame that secure those bolts are fairly fragile. An impact can easily spin the tabs off of the nutplate. Then you get to cut the bolt out, and move a bunch of A/C stuff out of the way on the right side so you can fish new nutplates in.

Start with liberal applications of PB Blaster several days in advance. There are holes in the frame where you can see the ends of those bolts. To get the bolts out, ease them out a little at the time, rocking back and forth 1/2 turn or so, gradually working it a little further out each time. That will wear the rust off and allow the bolt to be worked out without destroying the nutplate. The rear is not as big of a problem because the bolts were probably replaced when the recall was done. But an impact can still spin the tabs off of the nutplate, meaning you get to take up the carpet and reach it through the rubber plug in the floor so you can prevent it from spinning.

If you have reservations about Al subframe bushings (I did), then go with the Gen III bushings instead. I have those and they are great.
 

St Louis SHO

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:shrug: I've never broken one off, and I've probably used an impact on about 30+ cars so far. But I do kind of agree with the above, if you cannot handle the situation of breaking the plate do not use an impact.

- James
 

93rev2sev

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Dont use a screwdriver. Use the bolt...and a hammer....that is IF the tabs that hold down the platenuts don't break....which they will, and the nut will spin with the bolt...yay.

Get the recall kits and don't waste your time with your old hardware...heck...back it out a few threads and use a sawzall to cut the heads off the bolts...If it breaks, yer in luck because then you can just hammer the bolt up in there and go fishing for it with a magnet...it'll take 2 seconds.

If yer lucky, your hardware will look something like this...
Bushings
Platenut

And you do NOT wanna put any of THAT back in your car when you can have THIS...
shov6frontsubframemountrecallkit.jpg


For a half tank of gas.
And it doesn't matter if you use aluminum or Gen3 subframe bushings(highly recommended), you will still need the recall kits because they come with the platenuts. You need at least 2 platenuts because even if the recall was done AND you are able to remove the two rear bolts without breaking the bolt off; keep in mind, the recall did not specify replacement of the FRONT plate nuts...just the rears...so you probably have 15 year old stamped steel platnuts up front.

Be prepared to do it right. You may not have a choice.

Edit: if the recall WAS done, there is a good chance you can get a 7/8" wrench on the platenut. This will help you save the hardware in back, but be prepared either way...notice one of my bolts broke off in the new style platenut.
 
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SHOOFF508

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I ended up going with alluminum because i drive like a madman and i did order 2 recall kits as well. my subframe is clunking away and i think VERY loose, seeing on sharp turns to the left there will be a clunk resulting in my alignment being slightly off to the left and then turn a sharp turn/clunk to the right straighens the rack back out. :woohoo: Ive had the car on the lift and couldnt detect any play unloaded but im sure when the cars on the ground its loose. the bushings are crumbling and the second i cut the wheel all you hear is creeks and groans. the bushings should be here within a day or so and from there well see what happens
 

Mr Anonymous

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:shrug: I've never broken one off, and I've probably used an impact on about 30+ cars so far. But I do kind of agree with the above, if you cannot handle the situation of breaking the plate do not use an impact.

- James
It's all about knowing how to use the impact, and knowing the signs of "that ain't right" and stopping rather than trying to keep forcing a stuck bolt.

Oh, and unless you can get the recall kits for free, just buy the subframe bolts and plate nuts individually instead, they are less than 1/2 price that way.
 

93rev2sev

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Thanx Mr. A

I didn't know you could get the platenuts separately. Have you a part number?
 

RCM

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I didn't know you could get the platenuts separately. Have you a part number?

What I have listed is;

F5DZ54101C58AA- Plate Nut
N804442S426- Bolt
XF1Z5A364AA- Recall Kit
F6DZ5400396A- Mount; upper
YF1Z5400155AA- Mount; lower

The plate nut number was discontinued...superseded by the recall kit number.
Showing (8) available at Green Sales and probably still on the shelf at dealerships here and there.
 

Storm-Chaser

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No they're not. This [was] the Dealer List last summer when I bought my two kits:

  • $39.47 - Subframe Bolt Nut Plate

  • $19.12 - Subframe Recall Kit

  • $ 3.46 - Subframe Bolt

And while the cost of the nut plate has decreased, the entire recall kit continues to be less expensive than one nut plate:

  • $25.23 - Subframe Bolt Nut Plate

  • $21.03 - Subframe Recall Kit

  • $ 3.70 - Subframe Bolt


It's all about knowing how to use the impact, and knowing the signs of "that ain't right" and stopping rather than trying to keep forcing a stuck bolt.

Oh, and unless you can get the recall kits for free, just buy the subframe bolts and plate nuts individually instead, they are less than 1/2 price that way.


:burnout:
 
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