Any tips on rear wheel bearings

[Liquid_force]

Still trying to catch up on all the small repairs and maintenance on my recent '99 purchase.
Still feeling like a got a really good deal, but I'm afraid the trans isn't going to last long.

I've done:
Cam weld
IMRC & surge tank clean
New Autolite APP's
4 new COP's
New front rotors and pads
driver's seat leather repair

Next is a rear wheel bearing.

Are there any special tools I'm going to need for this? Is there a big spindle nut?

I will probably grease the slider pins while I have the caliper off (and do the other side too).
Anything else I should have a look at? Stabilizer components I guess?

 

[SHOZ123]

You need a big socket. It is really an easy job. Takes maybe 15 minutes for R&R. I think the socket is a 36 mm but they used different sizes over the years. It is the same hub that they have used since '93 for the disc brakes.

 

[Liquid_force]

Cool. I guess I'll just rent one of the axle/spindle tool kits from advance.

Since it takes a good mechanic :15 I'll probably give myself an hour
New front sway bar end links will be going on too - another hr.

Oh - the spindle nut -- do you recommend I trash it and get a new one?

 

[Izzmo]

I have replaced a few myself and I've always reused the nut as the new ones didn't come with a replacement. No problems so far. (But if it comes with one... might as well use it right?)

 

[luigisho]

I would find out the correct size and get a new one. They a relatively inexpensive and good insurance. You don't need alot of stuff to do the rear wheels. The axles run through the front wheels. The rears only have trailing arms and a strut tension rod to hold it in place and these come off with sockets. The rears are really easy. Look at the Haynes or Chiltons manual for instructions for the regular Taurus. The setup is the same.

 

[SHOZ123]

You don't need to deal with the strut or the tension rod.

Remove the caliper and rotor, take off big nut, take off the 4 bolts and the hub/bearing slides off.

 

[Liquid_force]

As usual, I made it a lot harder than it needed to be, but it's done - and hwy rear end "groan" is gone
Also got front stabilizer end links replaced.
Still have a "click" ing noise in the front end...if I put it in drive w/the brake on, let it roll a foot and hit the brake I get a front end "click". It will do it with every tap of the brakes.
I don't think it's a brake issue - I did pads/rotors a week ago and I'm 99% sure that's all good.

??

 

[SHOZ123]

Make sure the bolts that go through the front bushing are tight as you can get them in the subframe.

 

[stowsho]

No Power/ IMRC Stuck closed code

This 99 SHO is driving me crazy. The code said the imrc was stuck closed. I tore it all down, did the whole cleaning thing and put it back together. Now it blows fuses and shuts the fuel down, and still has no power. I wired them open, got more power, stopped blowing fuses. Now it idles rough at start up and has a little chug to it when warm. I give up. Any help out there?

 

[ThatShoGuy]

This 99 SHO is driving me crazy. The code said the imrc was stuck closed. I tore it all down, did the whole cleaning thing and put it back together. Now it blows fuses and shuts the fuel down, and still has no power. I wired them open, got more power, stopped blowing fuses. Now it idles rough at start up and has a little chug to it when warm. I give up. Any help out there?

i was blowing the ecm fuse i think it was under the hood when i pinched a fuel wire between the intake took me a while to figure it out.

was a simple fix. but was really hard to find. glad im good with wiring