any input would be appreciated

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SHOman8r

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My 97 started throwing the codes PO172 & PO175 (b1 & b2 running too rich) wondered if these cars had some type of fuel pressure regulator and if that could be the issue? The other issue I just stumbled onto, is that the front tires are cupping, the front left (passenger) tire is showing steel belts and has only 28,000 miles (the tires have been rotated one time). The car has been lowered with Eibach/Koni, at that same point I replaced all tie rod ends, 2 lower ball joints, and had an alignment done. Nothing seems to be loose up front, I realized that I'd be giving up a few things by lowering the car, just didn't realize it would eat tires. Any input on either problem would be much appreciated.

Thank you :thankyou:
 

stephen newberg

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At a guess, which is all it can be without more info, the first problem could be an 02 sensor, more likely than a fuel pressure regulator, and the second sounds like the toe is not corrected, which means the spot welds at the tops of the strut towers are likely not drilled out, all of which might have been made worse by the lowering.

pax, smn
 

bacernate

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Regulator is a possibility, but more than likely it a dirty or bad maf sensor. People don't understand that a ford maf when dirty makes the car lean @ higher load but it overcalculates @ idle and makes it run rich @ idle. See if you can get it scanned[no that doesn't mean a code reader at autozone] and see what rpm and coolant temp the freeze data stored. A faulty coolant sensor car make the car very rich also.
As for your alignment problem tires need rotated every 5-6k. These cars have alot of negative camber built into them. Tilt in the top of the tire. Toe will not cup a tire but negative camber will as will a weak strut. 28k on a set of performance tires that weren't rotated enough isn't all that bad. Most performance tires only have a 30-35k warranty on them anyway,or none at all.
We used to put corvette tires on every 10k as they were different sizes and couldn't be rotated at all.
 

stephen newberg

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Ack, sorry about that. Yes, it is camber not toe, that one adjusts by grinding out the spot welds at the top of the strut towers. Not enough coffee yet yesterday morning, I guess...

pax, smn
 

SHOman8r

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Thank you both for the assistance, at least gives me a few places to start. Can I read the "freeze data" with the SCT tuner, as that is what I'm pulling codes with?

Once again, a HUGE thank you!
 

SHOZ123

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The 172 and 175 mean you are running way too lean. There is an air leak somewhere and it is affecting both banks. Or the MAF is no good. Or the PCV system has issues.

When the regulators fail the internal diaphragm ruptures and the symptom is the gas leaks into the vacuum hose.
 

SHOman8r

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I haven't had time to try any of your suggestions to eliminate the error code. I just got the car back from the alignment shop, the shop had to replace a lower ball joint, the new one is a Moog, the one they replaced was a Napa, it only lasted 28K miles, is that typical lifespan of a LBJ? According to the graph the shop gave me, all alignment numbers are green, except for the right rear, which is .3 beyond acceptable negative camber. They said I could buy a kit that would allow more adjustment, but it cost $160, didn't sound like a good investment.

At any rate, I wanted to say thank you to everyone who chimed in, the advice is greatly appreciated. :thankyou:
 

stephen newberg

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The life expectancy of lower ball joints is very much dependent on the type of roads being driven on. Out in Nova Scotia, where the roads were often rough and deeply pitted and *** holed, I would go through a set in a year. Out here on Vancouver Island in British Columbia, where the back roads that are paved are outright smooth, I am still running the first new set I put in here 5 years ago and they are in good shape.

pax, smn
 
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