Mr Anonymous
Tire Wall
Toolman said:There is a VERY good reason why there is only one running turbo SHO in this country. Please prove me wrong.
AMEN!!!
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Toolman said:There is a VERY good reason why there is only one running turbo SHO in this country. Please prove me wrong.
Toolman said:HERE IS AN ABSOLUTE MINUMUM PARTS LISTS FOR TC'ing A SHO
Notice I say absolute minumum. Because anything less than this will NOT work.
1-turbo-$500-1500
1-WG-$100-400
1-BOV-$50-300
1-MAF-$50-150
1-tuning device - $200-550
1-fuel pump-$100-150
6-fuel injectors-$??
intake and exhaust plumbing-if you had the sources you could get it for very cheap
Chris Benvie said:Chris, I almost bought that car a WHILE ago, ****, about a year ago. And I drove it quaifeless. Go drive a quaifed supercharged SHO, then get back in yours. You'll see why I say go quaife or go home.
Your no clutch dumping is probably a pretty good method to save the diff and the clutch, but you know as well as I do, its hard not to break those babies loose.![]()
MotorMouth said:This is not a very acurate list for things you need. You do not need an external gate especially if you are going to run low boost.
An internal will work very well plus it will help save on room needed. The BOV is subjective. A bov is desighned to prevent compressor surge when the throttle body closes, on an auto the TB dose not close as many times as a stick and for the most part not as abruptly. A low boost set up will be fine in an auto with out one. Stick car is kind of a must have.
My question is this. If it is ok to use Nitrous why is it not ok to turbo?
If you make the same ammount of power between the two what the **** is the differance? Granted you have the latent cooling affects of Nitrous that you don't have with a turbo and turbo's create heat that can be overcome for the most part with aftercooling. But all things being equal you are still puting an added load into the drive train with both.
Other than the fact that one is less complicated than the other it is still fundemuntally the same process. The people who are spending their life savings trying to turbo a car are doing it wrong or are getting carryed away with it and turning up the boost to high.
Mike Kopstain said:He's got the right idea. The ATX is ideal for a 1/4 mile car. You can have a bullet proof ATX for $1800ish. We used to sell ours for $1800 installed with a 1 year warranty even under racing. We had one transmission come back to us. Building an ATX is not rocket science, but building one up for a 1/4 mile car is a smart move.
Chris Benvie said:I just can't see how a Forced Induction SHO of any type, will last, have any traction, or be anything more than a mildly amusing smoke show of one tire and a clutch. This of course being without a quaife and a stock clutch.
I am the biggest naysayer in this whole "you can build a turboSHO for under $3000 and have it be fun" hogwash. How is replacing transmissions clutches and gaskets weekly anyfun? The guys with the wicked heavily built SHOs still break stuff daily.
Yes we can argue, "well if he runs at low boost..." What male under the age of 25, in thier right mind, wants to run a car at less of what its capable (altho it might break) of? Not anyone I know. But hey that could just be us Massholes that like that crazy *** ****.
I maybe wrong, but thats just how I see it.
Glad I amuse you Jeff.![]()