Another Fuel Pump replacement (hole cut method) thread

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gmorrell

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I just recently did a fuel pump replacement in my SVT Contour through a hole in the floor. Ford provided a small access hole, but it's not large enough to remove the pump assembly from the tank, so you have to cut and patch.

http://s301.photobucket.com/albums/nn78/gmorrell_1959/Contour Fuel Pump Replacement/

There must be some sort of perverse natural law that causes your fuel pump to fail completely ****-up dead right after the tank is filled, as this is what happened to me.

I'd have no problem doing a through-the-floor pump replacement in my SHO. Just seal it back up well and it's not going to be a problem.
 

moobypets

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ill make that on my 94 gl bull since im putting the 90 sho engine in there and i dont wan tto have to drop tank again way easier and faster

and my replacement pump is already defective so
 

hawkeye18

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I replaced a fuel pump from a tank had been filled to the brim 15 miles prior. Personally, I would consider this safer, as a spark on a full tank results in a small fire directly above the hole; a spark in an empty tank results in KABLOOEY! Remember, it's not the liquid that catches fire, it's the vapor...
 

lowc

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Srsly. The first time I replaced the fuel pump in my 94, I cut the flap out. I soon became very, very glad I did as the replacement failed after 250 miles. After I replaced it again (in about 5 minutes), and showed the car that it couldn't frustrate me by having that part break again, it gave 50,000 miles of faithful service before delivering the fuel that ran me into an impala, at the behest of my dumb-ass right foot.

lmfao :rofl:
 

lowc

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see now my stupid ass would have browken out the good old wizzer and went to town

but yet i almost got fired for doing a fp in a tahoo with a full tank while smokin over the tank

surprisingly my 92 hasnt had a fp in more than ten years
 
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LJRuddy

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I just replaced a fuel pump in a 94 ATX using this method. It took me all of an hour and a half to complete the entire process. ****, the hardest part of the whole swap was getting the fuel return hard line separated from the old fuel pump.
 

badcamelot

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I did the same thing. It is pretty easy. I will not say how I cut the hole - should blown up. But this process IF FOLLOWED is a great easy one man job.
 

frosho

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Guys, guys, use a dremel. Seriously, it works great! Yeah, it might be kinda slow, and yeah, you'll go through like 12 cutoff wheels, but the little 1" jobbers aren't thick enough to cut the fuel lines even when they're fresh. So there's no risk of fires and whatnot. And, the lines are nice 'n straight and whatnot. I just cut the front three sides open and it closes right back up. Perfect!

I wanted to add a word of caution here. Those Dremel wheels ARE big enough to reach the fuel lines in some cases. I think the problem is that every car is different - some have more clearance between the lines and floor than others do. Mine were just a couple millimeters below the floor, and if Hamal hadn't been paying close attention when he made the cut, he could have easily hit one or both of the lines. When I checked them afterward, I could feel a few little nicks, probably from when the wheel grabbed. Bottom line - be careful and pay close attention to what you're doing.


I also had to quote Mr. Vapah Lock here for the lulz:

see now my stupid ass would have browken out the good old wizzer and went to town

but yet i almost got fired for doing a fp in a tahoo with a full tank while smokin over the tank

surprisingly my 92 hasnt had a fp in more than ten years

Don't taunt your Fuel Pump... I expect it will grab your attention soon for thinking such things...

i hope not but carma is a *****

:rofl:
 

krek

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We cut this opening on our crapcan racer and while five of us stood around debating the best way to make a replacement door for the hole, Russ walked over to the parts car and cut a piece out of the floor approximately 1" bigger on each side.

It fits directly over the hole and is secured by a few self tapping screws. If you have a parts car and this mod, I highly recommend this.
 

BasedBidoof

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I just did this a different way and thought I'd share. I drew it out just like you said, but rather than drilling I got a sharp chisel and a hammer and just used that for all the cutting. It took like 5 minutes, and was a lot easier I think
 

tery

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Opinions please...
I have been using this rockwell multi tool things that vibrates like all get out and cuts metal, I chopped up an old rusty grill in about an hour into pretty small pieces. .I'm thinking this would be a great tool to do the cutting..there's no sparks you can see the depth you are cutting by how much of the "blade" is above and the shape of it actually. It's the kind of think some people use for sanding stuff too. It just vibrates so hard and fast that it'll cut steel with the correct blade on it..



Oh yeah, and there's this sonic-shear..I haven't used it but I think it'll cut steel like tin snips.. Do people think this'd be a good tool for the job???
I may be replacing Babe's pump..I'll know tomorrow.
Thx,
T
 

rubydist

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either will work. I used a Dremel to cut mine.
 

zak

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Question - I have a Gen 2 that I would like to harvest the fuel lines from before hauling it to the yard. Can I use this hole cut method to get to enough of the fuel lines that dropping the tank wouldn't be necessary?
 

luigisho

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You mean disconnect at the sending unit and snake them out? That's interesting. Wish I could say for sure but interesting. If you are scrapping it I would consider cut the straps and drop it. Not like you need to keep it whole to scrap yard it
 

itwonder

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Well, maybe I'm the ole troll, but I have to remind y'all every now and then that's it's not difficult or time consuming to drop the tank. What's to fear? Just check out the strap fasteners and hit them with penetrating oil beforehand, or be ready to replace them. Once removed, you have the benefit of being able to clean out the tank, which most need after this many years. And you don't have to butcher the bodywork, or spend time on side work like making a proper patch...and that is important if you want to be protected from fuel entering the cabin if there's a major crash that ruptures the tank. In 26 years, I've changed the pump once (knock on wood).
 

zak

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Unfortunately when I parked it a year ago for part out it had a full tank, I did add Stabil. The battery harness was in great shape so headed to the new car, and had to take the dash out, so to pump it out I would need to jumper the pump at the passenger side under rear seat feedthrough. Would prefer to let the yard drain it but suppose I could do so. This is a 23 year old car that saw 23 New England winters, lots of underbody rust.
 
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