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The following info was taken from THIS website:
DANGER-Performance of this task is at your own risk. You could cause serious injury or maybe even die. I accept no responsibility for your actions. Information and pictures from CcrazySHO on SHOforum. Note: I do not recommend the use of any power tools except for a drill (used very carefully) to create pilot holes. I have performed this procedure using tin snips to cut the floor and found that it worked well and was much safer. This minimizes the risk of blinding cutting through a fuel line or rupturing the fuel tank. Use common sense; if you don't feel comfortable with what you are doing, don't do it. Please note that these instructions were written with a Gen2 SHO (1992-1995) in mind.
Tools required: 12" flat blade screw driver, hammer, Sharpie permanent marker, tape measurer, tin snips (recommended for novice SHO'ers), Skilsaw (recommended for anyone with the guts to use it!), safety goggles, work gloves of some type, small pick tool (small Phillips head screwdriver will work), straight edge to make lines, power drill and assorted drill bits (optional), 4 small wire ties, and a vacuum to clean up.
1- Remove lower portion of rear seat by pushing in on the front, lower side of the seat. There is one hook and bar assembly on each side. The seat has the bar, the floor panel has the hook.
2- Roll back sound deadening material( you can clip it up with your center adjustable seat belt).
3- Roll back your carpet, and tuck it in to it self, out of the way.
4- Measure from the center of the lower weather stripping, on the passenger side rear door. At 21" make a mark, and at 30" make a mark. Refer to picture.
5- Measure from the ****, or edge where the floor pan rolls downward, 1" and make a mark. Also make a mark at 8". Refer to picture.
6- Now that you have four individual marks, draw straight lines acting as a template where your cutting will be. You may not want to cut the rear most section, unless you have made a separate door to go in place of the stock flooring. Refer to picture. If you are using the Skilsaw as your cutting tool, skip to step 9.
7- Take your screwdriver (long flat blade) and position the corner of the tip at the rear most corner of the template you made in step 6. You can start on either side, drivers or passenger. Now take the hammer, and hit the edge of the screwdriver that is opposite to the side on the metal. You should end up with small hole just wide enough to fit your screwdriver tip into. Take the screwdriver and wiggle it in the hole to make a large enough hole for the end of your tin snips.
8- Cut along your lines with the tin snips. When you get to a corner, you may have to repeat the hammer and screwdriver technique to be able to make the turn with the tin snips. Seeing that you used the tin snips, skip to step 11.
9- PUT ON SAFETY GOGGLES FOR STEP 9+10!!!!! Make sure to have your Skillsaw's cord out the way, so you or the saw do not become entangled. Now make your blade depth adjustment so that when looking at the the flat edge guide, you can see barely one tip on the saw sticking up. You should have roughly 1/16" of the blade showing. THIS IS VERY IMPORTANT TO MAKE SURE THE BLADE IS NOT TOO FAR DOWN!!!! I CANNOT STRESS THIS ENOUGH!!!
10- Now first line up your blade with your first cut mark. I chose the starboard( right most ) line from my template. THIS IS THE SIDE WITH THE FUEL LINES RIGHT BELOW IT!!!! Make sure not to cut too far down. The forward most line, and the drivers side cuts have nearly nothing in the way. But still, DO NOT CUT TOO DEEP!!!! Refer to picture.
11- Now that you have cut three sides out on your rectangle, it's time to peel this piece of metal back. Take your flat blade screw driver, and work gloves, and pry back the the floor plate. You should see the four fuel lines, and the one electrical connector right in your face. Refer to picture.
12- Use your vacuum to clean up any metal shavings and dirt that could fall into the hole when you have your tank exposed.
13- Take your long blade screwdriver and hammer again. There are little lips or edges that stick up on the outer ring of the fuel pump hanger. You need to lightly tap on these with the screwdriver on them, by hitting the screwdrivers handle. Keep rotating on each one, to keep it nice and even, not wanting to bend anything.
14- Once this ring is removed, or loosened all the way. You must then disconnect the two fuel lines from the pump hanger. They each have a plastic clip, exactly like the one for your fuel filter, that holds them in place. You can pry these out with the screwdriver. Try not to break these, unless you have two more to replace them. Next take off the electrical harness that plugs into the top of the hanger. It simply unclips with two small tabs on the forward side.
15- Your fuel pump hanger is ready to come out. Pull the hanger assembly up, while guiding it around the ballast tank inside the fuel tank. It all comes out in one piece.
DANGER-Performance of this task is at your own risk. You could cause serious injury or maybe even die. I accept no responsibility for your actions. Information and pictures from CcrazySHO on SHOforum. Note: I do not recommend the use of any power tools except for a drill (used very carefully) to create pilot holes. I have performed this procedure using tin snips to cut the floor and found that it worked well and was much safer. This minimizes the risk of blinding cutting through a fuel line or rupturing the fuel tank. Use common sense; if you don't feel comfortable with what you are doing, don't do it. Please note that these instructions were written with a Gen2 SHO (1992-1995) in mind.
Tools required: 12" flat blade screw driver, hammer, Sharpie permanent marker, tape measurer, tin snips (recommended for novice SHO'ers), Skilsaw (recommended for anyone with the guts to use it!), safety goggles, work gloves of some type, small pick tool (small Phillips head screwdriver will work), straight edge to make lines, power drill and assorted drill bits (optional), 4 small wire ties, and a vacuum to clean up.
1- Remove lower portion of rear seat by pushing in on the front, lower side of the seat. There is one hook and bar assembly on each side. The seat has the bar, the floor panel has the hook.
2- Roll back sound deadening material( you can clip it up with your center adjustable seat belt).
3- Roll back your carpet, and tuck it in to it self, out of the way.
4- Measure from the center of the lower weather stripping, on the passenger side rear door. At 21" make a mark, and at 30" make a mark. Refer to picture.
5- Measure from the ****, or edge where the floor pan rolls downward, 1" and make a mark. Also make a mark at 8". Refer to picture.
6- Now that you have four individual marks, draw straight lines acting as a template where your cutting will be. You may not want to cut the rear most section, unless you have made a separate door to go in place of the stock flooring. Refer to picture. If you are using the Skilsaw as your cutting tool, skip to step 9.
7- Take your screwdriver (long flat blade) and position the corner of the tip at the rear most corner of the template you made in step 6. You can start on either side, drivers or passenger. Now take the hammer, and hit the edge of the screwdriver that is opposite to the side on the metal. You should end up with small hole just wide enough to fit your screwdriver tip into. Take the screwdriver and wiggle it in the hole to make a large enough hole for the end of your tin snips.
8- Cut along your lines with the tin snips. When you get to a corner, you may have to repeat the hammer and screwdriver technique to be able to make the turn with the tin snips. Seeing that you used the tin snips, skip to step 11.
9- PUT ON SAFETY GOGGLES FOR STEP 9+10!!!!! Make sure to have your Skillsaw's cord out the way, so you or the saw do not become entangled. Now make your blade depth adjustment so that when looking at the the flat edge guide, you can see barely one tip on the saw sticking up. You should have roughly 1/16" of the blade showing. THIS IS VERY IMPORTANT TO MAKE SURE THE BLADE IS NOT TOO FAR DOWN!!!! I CANNOT STRESS THIS ENOUGH!!!
10- Now first line up your blade with your first cut mark. I chose the starboard( right most ) line from my template. THIS IS THE SIDE WITH THE FUEL LINES RIGHT BELOW IT!!!! Make sure not to cut too far down. The forward most line, and the drivers side cuts have nearly nothing in the way. But still, DO NOT CUT TOO DEEP!!!! Refer to picture.
11- Now that you have cut three sides out on your rectangle, it's time to peel this piece of metal back. Take your flat blade screw driver, and work gloves, and pry back the the floor plate. You should see the four fuel lines, and the one electrical connector right in your face. Refer to picture.
12- Use your vacuum to clean up any metal shavings and dirt that could fall into the hole when you have your tank exposed.
13- Take your long blade screwdriver and hammer again. There are little lips or edges that stick up on the outer ring of the fuel pump hanger. You need to lightly tap on these with the screwdriver on them, by hitting the screwdrivers handle. Keep rotating on each one, to keep it nice and even, not wanting to bend anything.
14- Once this ring is removed, or loosened all the way. You must then disconnect the two fuel lines from the pump hanger. They each have a plastic clip, exactly like the one for your fuel filter, that holds them in place. You can pry these out with the screwdriver. Try not to break these, unless you have two more to replace them. Next take off the electrical harness that plugs into the top of the hanger. It simply unclips with two small tabs on the forward side.
15- Your fuel pump hanger is ready to come out. Pull the hanger assembly up, while guiding it around the ballast tank inside the fuel tank. It all comes out in one piece.
