And the aftermath...

[Eliw]

My gratitude And the aftermath...

Ok, so I finally did my tune up . Belts, intake cleaning and gasket change, valve seals, plug seals(no more oil!!!! Yippeeee! ) and a few other things. My struts still squeak from an apparently missing spherical washer between the mount and the dust boot, now Im getting sort of a whirring sound from the front of the engine which I have attributed to me pushing the timing belt tensioner farther up than what it normaly tightends, AND finally, I switched over to a 75mm pro flo and a K&N filter and am getting a CE light now constantly whenever I open the roaring throttle all the way :hpoop: . I also changed the ACT sensor.
I havent pulled the codes yet, I waiting till I drive it a little more. Any suggestions on any of the above related problems?
I've relied on this forum since I got the ol' 89, and I wouldnt count on any other group of people to help me revive, restore and make this thing eat ricers . Someone recently said that its pretty good when you beat a nice looking car in a rust bucket :laugh_ti: . I agree totally. People have downplayed my car (including my girl and family) but when I open her up on the street, people stop and realize my taurus aint like other taurii.

Now that I have completed the easier part of my major tune up, and it wasnt all that easy , I want to thank all who have helped me out by answering my sometimes stupid questions and for being answer ready at a moments notice .

In any case, If anybody could provide some insight on the above related issues all the way at the top, I would be very thankful.

 

[Rockledge]

...AND finally, I switched over to a 75mm pro flo and a K&N filter and am getting a CE light now constantly whenever I open the roaring throttle all the way...I havent pulled the codes yet, I waiting till I drive it a little more. Any suggestions on any of the above related problems?

Yes. Pull the codes and dump the Pro Flo MAF and K&N filter.

 

[Eliw]

Why dump? The MAF is tuned for the SHO and the K&N went in almost 2 weeks after the pro, it doesnt have anything to do with the CE light. K&N's are good telling from searches I've done here.

 

[Eliw]

I have also read good things about the Proflows as opposed to the C&L's

 

[marvsho17]

FWIW, I tightened up my timing belt tensioner more than whats required also. Ended up costing me a new tensioner and more time to throw a new one on.

 

[Eliw]

I tightend it to the torque spec but also pushed it up to tention the belt more. Maybe thats actually a a nono?

 

[Eliw]

Slight error on my part. I installed a Pro-M bullet MAF(if this makes any diffrence

 

[1993atx]

FWIW, I know that changing the MAF can cause problems, and the K&N filter can too. Some recommend not using the K&N at all(oil in filter maybe?) I have an LPM and I've been told that changing the MAF will require a reprogramming of the chip. I'm sure others will tell you more. Good luck!

 

[Eliw]

I have read, here on shoforum, that the Pro-M 75mm is one of the MAF's that dont require a LPM. Sometimes they work well, but sometimes they wont. Correct me if I'm wrong, but most of the time when they dont do well, they make the car run lean? Since I put it on my car, the amount of mid-high RPM's ability to throw me into the back of my seat has increased. I havent done a peel out yet, but thats because I am totally against peel outs. An LPM would be nice, but then again, I got a great bargain on my Bullet MAF

 

[marvsho17]

I tightend it to the torque spec but also pushed it up to tention the belt more. Maybe thats actually a a nono?

Well, when I put it on the first time I gave it a little "extra" to make sure it didn't fall off. Then after putting the car back together-the whurring noise started. Then after like 5 miles it sounded as if i was dragging a heat shield on the pavement. I ordered a new one from FPN.com , and followed SDPat's instructions this time of letting the spring do its own thing and tighten to specs.

 

[Eliw]

Shoot, I better loosen it as soon as possible

 

[sdpatt]

You can reset the timing belt tension by just popping the little door off the lower timing belt cover. Nothing else has to be removed. Try this topic for the procedure.

It is critical that that the tensioner spring is properly installed for this to work. I have seen the spring improperly installed more than a few times. There is no reason to remove the tensioner from the block unless you are replacing it.

 

[Eliw]

So, basically, get the yellow mark on 0, then loosen and tighten the pulley? Theres no chance for belt tooth jumping right?