Amp Wire Routing

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BenBrausen

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I'm gonna go ahead and install my subs in my car. I was just wondering where the best place to run the power wire through the firewall and through the car is? I'm gonna be goin' with a 4ga, 2ga, or 0/1ga wire......
 

RStalveyARFF

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There is a rubber grommet above the brake pedal that goes straight through the firewall. Most people use that to avoid drilling holes.
 

Speedy_91_SHO

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I used that hole for my underbody switch, and couldn't get the damn rubber thing back in, then lost it. is it very important. I don't know if we are talking about the same hole or not. Just a big hole with a rubber plug thing in it, I don't think anything goes through it........????
 

NorthernSHO

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I ran my RCA's down the drivers side from the deck to my amp and then I ran the power cable down the passenger side to the battery.

This made the most sense to me since the battery is on the passenger side and this would mean I wouldn't have to route the power wire accross the engine bay.

If you open the passenger side front door, there is a rubber gromet near the door hinges that goes into the passenger compartment. Once you put the power wire through this gromet, you can then feed the wire into the front passenger side wheel well. You will need to remove the front passenger wheel and the fender liner. From here you can easily run the power wire directly to the battery out of site and out of mind.

Any questions, let me know.
 

RickieFrat

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NorthernSHO:
If you open the passenger side front door, there is a rubber gromet near the door hinges that goes into the passenger compartment. Once you put the power wire through this gromet, you can then feed the wire into the front passenger side wheel well. You will need to remove the front passenger wheel and the fender liner. From here you can easily run the power wire directly to the battery out of site and out of mind.

Any questions, let me know.
You can go that route but if you purchased a amp install kit, they give you enough wire to go the other way across the engine bay.

As for that rubber gromment, it is used for ATX's. Speedy_91_SHO use a flat head screwdriver and it will pop back in with a lil force.

Ben ..... How many watts and amps are you planning on running ???
 

yamahaSHO

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BenBrausen:
As of right now, I'm just runnin' 2000watts with a 1 Fraud power cap. I will be goin' up to 4000watts sometime in the near future.
Why do you need that much power?? With a well thought out and designed system, you can get away with 1000 watts or less(bass only, even less power with mids and highs). Every 1000 watts rms, you need a 1 farad capacitor. If you do want to run 4000 watts, you will most deffinately need bigger than 2 awg.
 

BenBrausen

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I've been in sevral bass comps and although I never have it full blast, I like havin' a powerful stereo. I love havin' a system that can hit 1Hz if I need too... :D Once I figure out if I'm gonna keep the SHO, I'm gonna have a custom fiberglass box made my a friend that owns Barinerd RadioShack (franchise). They did the '98 Rockford van (I believe that's the year) and it was killer. I've looked into pullin 6.5's in all 4 doors, and better 6x9's in the rear window.
 

yamahaSHO

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What ever floats your boat. Who are you going to show off the 1Hz to, or even digital 0?? Most ears cannot hear lower than 20hz. My subs would hit the super low notes, I could see them moving and feel them but I could not hear them. With two 12"s I hit over 160db, and thats with an amp that pushed 1300rms. I had the gain control turned pretty low too.

<small>[ March 27, 2003, 03:56 PM: Message edited by: yamahaSHO ]</small>
 

RickieFrat

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Ben ... You might want to go 0 Gauge wire. If your going that powerfull what are you useing to push it ???

I only had 1200 watts in my SHO and it was plenty of ear bleed for me. I had to be pushing 150 DB's.
 

yamahaSHO

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BenBrausen
When I do upgrade to 4000watts I'm gonna add in a 5 fraud cap.
farad thumbs_u

<small>[ March 27, 2003, 03:58 PM: Message edited by: yamahaSHO ]</small>
 

NiNeTy Fo SHO

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Where do you find a 4000 watt amp?

I am into car audio and everything...but about the biggest I have found one amp to be is 2500 watts...

Just curious as to the name and aprrox. cost...
thumbs_u
 

RickieFrat

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To be honest .... I wouldn't go with BOSS. Its bottom of the barrel. They are kinda like Super PRO woofers. I carry MA Audio. Here is my 5 Farad cap......
1683.jpg


And my 4400 watt amp ......

3387.jpg


2 x 500W RMS @ 4 Ohm Stereo
2 x 800W RMS @ 2 Ohm Stereo
2 x 1400W RMS @ 1 Ohm Stereo
2 x 2200W RMS @ 0.5 Ohm Stereo
1 x 4400W RMS @ 1 Ohm Bridged

Dimensions (H x W x L): 2.7”x 12.4”x 27.3” Features:Digital LCD Display = (Voltage,Temperature & Output Level)Platinum Plated Connections, Quiet Fan Cooling System, High Quality Power & Protection LED’s, Thermal / Short / Overload Protection Circuitry, 0-18 dB Variable Bass Boost, 40-250Hz Variable High Pass Crossover, 40-250Hz Variable Low Pass Crossover, Remote Bass Control, THD @ 4 0hm &lt;0.05%, THD @ 2 0hm &lt;0.1%, THD @ 1 0hm &lt;1.0%, S/N Ratio: &gt;90dB, Channel Separation: 60dB Frequency Response: 20-20kHz, Input Voltage Range: 00mV - 8V Input Impedance: 10k Ohms 24dB Subsonic Filter (HK-401SX only)


Check out there web site ... web page and say HI to Nichole for me. boink

<small>[ March 27, 2003, 04:56 PM: Message edited by: RickieFrat ]</small>
 

Nicad

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I just ran 8 gauge wire to my trunk for a 600 watt(rms) amp (and all new speakers, sub, etc)
I bought 20' stranded wire from a hardware store, and used every bit of it!!!

I ran from the battery (in the stock location) back to the firewall, then along the firewall over to the driver side and then down and through the hole in the firewall where the speedo cable goes through. From there, went down under the driver side carpet and over to the side runner covers. Ran it under the side covers to the back seat (which I popped out easily by pushing back on the front edge and lifting up on each side) and then through with the rest of a bundle of wires into the trunk. Very easy install once I decided on the route to take. 20 minutes max, clean, out of sight, and no holes to drill.

I might have been able to get away with 18' of wire if I had cut some corners, but I was surprised at how much it required!!
Don't forget to replace the ground wire too.. ran a 1' length from the amp to a bolt-through in the back metal plate behind the back seat. Make sure to clean the paint off to get a good metal contact surface.

Now I just need to figure out how to keep the back deck lid from rattling when the sub is punching... :-/
 

deercrusher

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im with yamaha sho on the system setup - least amount of power with most sound. Speaker companys went nuts with marketing bs about watts - like 600 watt 6x9's. Not necessary - I get lower watt stuff , power it as necessary and look at the important info like frequency response and db's.

as for the above poster, you might want to find a better ground than the metal plate - you should have it grounded to something bolted directly to the frame, such as the backseat seatbelt bolt.

As for the watt craziness, here's my viewpoint - why is it that my first system in 1997 was 2 12 inch Crossfire subs, one 300 watt? (if i remember correctly) crossfire amp, and a blaupunkt headunit with a 3v output was able to make sooo much bass that it could set off car alarms , shake peoples windows and only last one month before it got jacked. (not that im proud of that)

Now they have this junk out there like 600 watt 6x9's that sound like absolute garbage. It's all about sound quality.
 

yamahaSHO

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This has got to be some kind of record for digging up old posts! At least they're doing the research!
 

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