Alternator replacement

[Bryan]

Okay so I had my 92 out and now have found out the alternator isn't charging right anymore. So how is the job on removing the alternator? Looks pretty accessible, but how do I loosen the tension on the belt? I see a pulley and it looks like its sits on a slotted part of the motor with a nut on it and a hex threaded bolt with what looks like a c-clip on it. Is this the tensioner for the alternator?

 

[zoomlater]

You have to loosen the nut first, then use an allen wrench to loosen the tension

https://shoforum.com/index.php?threads/93-sho-alternator.89094/#post-906887

This is a nice tool to have. The alternator tensioner is not the bad to get to, but to reach the other tensioner, this tool works great.

http://www.shosource.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=85&products_id=468

 

[sperold]

The disappointing part of this job is having to remove the battery tray which is usually rusted.
Speaking of rust, one episode I experienced was the adjuster threads were rusted and I had to remove the entire cast aluminum adjuster to free it up. Luckily, that part was fairly easy.

At that point, I swore that I would move the adjuster once a year from then on, which I never did, of course.

 

[Bryan]

Ok so how in the heck do you get the alternator off? Some say this is an easy job, but it looks like the A/C lines are in the way. How in the **** do you get the back two bolts off the alternator? It's impossible to get a ratchet in there and even if you could there is like no room to turn it. What am I supposed to do? Rip out the damn radiator as well? It's all in the way.

 

[Bryan]

Okay so with a little encouragement (a pry bar pressing against the alternator on the AC line) I was able to "gently" nudge the AC lines out of the way just enough to get my ratchet on to the bolt. AC is probably going to leak now I guess. Well that's IF it even worked in the first place. ::Shrugs:: Oh well... guess I'll have to live with something that didn't work anyway right?

 

[rubydist]

I have found that a long extension with a swivel next to the socket is very helpful getting to stuff like that bolt... sometimes multiple swivels various places on the several extensions.

 

[sperold]

On a nice, rust free car, it is a 2 hour job, and a big part of that is figuring out the battery tray.

When I did mine, it took all day, as I did both adjusters and had to remove one adjuster to get it moving again.

If you have trouble with the adjusters, here is my story on that topic:

https://shoforum.com/index.php?posts/1426926/

 

[Bryan]

On a nice, rust free car, it is a 2 hour job, and a big part of that is figuring out the battery tray.

When I did mine, it took all day, as I did both adjusters and had to remove one adjuster to get it moving again.

If you have trouble with the adjusters, here is my story on that topic:

https://shoforum.com/index.php?posts/1426926/

Battery tray has no rust on it at all and it came off with no issues. Also once I loosened the locking nut on the tensioner I was able to take a drill with a flexible extension and spin the pulley up releasing the tension on it. I'll take some pictures tomorrow. The car really is in good shape for its age. I was surprised to see no rust on the battery tray. Usually those things are all rusted out by now.

 

[Bryan]

Okay so new alternator is in and so far everything seems good! I got the Alternator from Advanced Auto. A re-manufactured one. Looked pretty good and it even had JAPAN letters on it cast into the metal. I am assuming this is an original one? Better than the cheap Duralast one I was offered at Auto Zone.

 

[rubydist]

They are all pretty much reman factory parts, but the issue seems to be the quality of the electronic components they put in the voltage regulator. The only ones I ever got to last were the NAPA lifetime warranty ones, hopefully your luck will be good with this one.

 

[sperold]

Keep your receipt and warranty information, a lot of re manufactured alternators have problems. Check your output and keep it on file for comparison in years to come. The common problems are voltage regulators and brushes, hardly ever bearings.

A lot of people look for alternators with a lifetime warranty.

My best results were from getting an original Ford alternator on this forum that was shipped to me by a member from California.

The next best result is from taking the failed alternator to a shop specializing in this field and having them rebuild it.

 

[luigisho]

The next best result is from taking the failed alternator to a shop specializing in this field and having them rebuild it.

That's what I used to do. Then I had 2 units fail in short order. The Chinese replacement parts are really bad and no assembly skill can overcome that. Next time I'll be doing the NAPA thing

 

[Bryan]

That's what I used to do. Then I had 2 units fail in short order. The Chinese replacement parts are really bad and no assembly skill can overcome that. Next time I'll be doing the NAPA thing

NAPA couldn't get me an alternator. I tried them and they said it was unavailable.

 

[zoomlater]

I have returned two MTX Napa alternators over the years (on two different cars). The last time (couple of years ago) they had to ship it cross country. This was for the lifetime alternator. They still had some one year warranty version as well.

I had recently picked up a lifetime ATX alternator this year, so they still had those.

Shosource sells rebuilt and new ones from Bosch, I thought those had a decent reputation

http://www.shosource.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=61_43_75&products_id=366

http://www.shosource.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=61_43_75&products_id=364

 

[Bryan]

I have returned two MTX Napa alternators over the years (on two different cars). The last time (couple of years ago) they had to ship it cross country. This was for the lifetime alternator. They still had some one year warranty version as well.

I had recently picked up a lifetime ATX alternator this year, so they still had those.

Shosource sells rebuilt and new ones from Bosch, I thought those had a decent reputation

http://www.shosource.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=61_43_75&products_id=366

http://www.shosource.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=61_43_75&products_id=364

We'll see how this one works for now. I really don't want to tear back into the motor unless it give me issues. I may just buy one of those alternators in case though.

 

[sperold]

I have found that the 94 / 95 alternators to be more reliable and they put out more amps.
It is more work and you have to find the mounting bracket that holds the AC compressor from a 94 / 95 while they are somewhat readily available, but it does have some reward.
I am not recommending that you do this, but to me it makes more sense than stockpiling the little 90 amp alternator that you have now.
Here is a write up on how to do it, and you can decide if you want to get the bracket for a rainy day project:

https://shoforum.com/index.php?thre...mtx-alternator-to-94-95-mtx-alternator.48847/

 

[SHOdded]

Amazing how much info is in this one thread alone

 

[Bryan]

I have found that the 94 / 95 alternators to be more reliable and they put out more amps.
It is more work and you have to find the mounting bracket that holds the AC compressor from a 94 / 95 while they are somewhat readily available, but it does have some reward.
I am not recommending that you do this, but to me it makes more sense than stockpiling the little 90 amp alternator that you have now.
Here is a write up on how to do it, and you can decide if you want to get the bracket for a rainy day project:

https://shoforum.com/index.php?thre...mtx-alternator-to-94-95-mtx-alternator.48847/

Eh I don't plan on it as I am now trying to sell the car because I need room for a new project I will be getting in the coming weeks.

 

[zak]

They are all pretty much reman factory parts, but the issue seems to be the quality of the electronic components they put in the voltage regulator. The only ones I ever got to last were the NAPA lifetime warranty ones, hopefully your luck will be good with this one.

For this reason I started rebuilding my own, using Motorcraft regulators (which are integral with the brush holders). Change the pulley end bearing while you're in there (I usually change both). Can be done faster and cheaper than driving back and forth to the autoparts store, returning the core etc. Use some sockets to create as a stand and drive the bearing out.

 

[itwonder]

For this reason I started rebuilding my own, using Motorcraft regulators (which are integral with the brush holders). Change the pulley end bearing while you're in there (I usually change both). Can be done faster and cheaper than driving back and forth to the autoparts store, returning the core etc. Use some sockets to create as a stand and drive the bearing out.

Not sure about the 94-95 alternator, but the 89-93 alternators are Japanese and very robust. A local alternator shop should be able to rebuild it without any problem if you don't have the time or skills to do so, and that may cost less than an exchange. I had mine gone through at 160K; the original brushes were less than 1/3 worn. The shop said all it needed was a cleaning. They also said they are great alternators.