OgreSmash
SHO Member
I just replaced one on my 2010. didn't need a hub puller or none of that crap. 32mm socket with breaker bar for axle nut and socket set for the 4 bolts that hold the hub on. had mine changed in 30 minutes
Advice on front wheel hub/bearing replacement
- Thread starter shaker281
- Start date
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Was it ever replaced before? Are you the first owner? If it was done once before, it would probably drop right out.
OgreSmash
SHO Member
no I bought the car used so I don't know if it was ever done before. just know it wasn't hard to remove
Hebes10
SHO Member
I am at 53k and noticed a squealing / metal slinky like noise when I turn the steering wheel left - not every left turn, but I only hear the noise when I turn left. I thought it was way too early for a wheel bearing to go bad. Looks like I have a weekend project!
Hebes10
SHO Member
I went with the SKF. I had no problem getting the hub off. I pretty much just wiggled it and pulled if off with my hands. I spent more time wire brushing the knuckle. Everything else (CV, tie rod, etc.) looked great. Anyway, I noticed the RedStuff pads were almost completely worn down, Less than 1mm of pad left. Its only been 11,000 miles!! Is that normal? Replacing front brakes this weekend. I hope this fixes the squeal issue. Its so embarrassing!!
Since the early SHO front brakes were insufficient for this car's weight, if you drive your brakes hard maybe that is why only 11,000 miles.
SHOinVa
SHO Member
That is kind of self evident, the issue is Ford produced a performance vehicle an failed to give the car adequate brakes for its level of performance. IMHO if you want to drive a Taurus like a family going to Disney World, then buy a SEL or LIMITED model an save a bunch of money, the whole purpose of having a SHO is to drive it hard. There are ways to improve on the 10-12 brakes and unless you track the car, you will probably get more then 11,000 miles out of a set of pads.
- On that note my plan is to replace the 10-12 brakes with 13+ brakes, while I have it torn down my plan is to replace all four bearings, Why? LOL Not really sure, just seems like a cool thing to do.
C/
I know this is an old thread but I'm reviving it for some pictures. Changing the ball joints on buddies a Jeep here in the rustbelt with over 200k miles on it. Used the method I described in post #9 of this thread and it came off easy.
* First picture shows the 3 jaw puller in place with some pressure on the bearing to give some force to pull it out. You cannot get a ton of pressure because as you tighten the puller the whole hub spins.
* The second picture shows where I hit with the hammer. I'm hitting the side of that tab to force the bearing to rotate. As it rotates the pressure from the puller will also cause it to pull out. Tighten puller, hammer one way, tighten puller, hammer the other way, repeat until bearing is removed.
* The third pictures shows the bearing starting to pull out and you can see how the hole in the tab is no longer lined up with the hole in the steering knuckle. When I reinstall the new bearing I always clean up the bore in the steering knuckle with a wire wheel and apply some grease to the bore and mating face. The next person to change them will thank you.
Yes, I also have grease on my wheel studs. It was applied to the face of the hub to prevent it from welding to the rotor.
* First picture shows the 3 jaw puller in place with some pressure on the bearing to give some force to pull it out. You cannot get a ton of pressure because as you tighten the puller the whole hub spins.
* The second picture shows where I hit with the hammer. I'm hitting the side of that tab to force the bearing to rotate. As it rotates the pressure from the puller will also cause it to pull out. Tighten puller, hammer one way, tighten puller, hammer the other way, repeat until bearing is removed.
* The third pictures shows the bearing starting to pull out and you can see how the hole in the tab is no longer lined up with the hole in the steering knuckle. When I reinstall the new bearing I always clean up the bore in the steering knuckle with a wire wheel and apply some grease to the bore and mating face. The next person to change them will thank you.
Yes, I also have grease on my wheel studs. It was applied to the face of the hub to prevent it from welding to the rotor.
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Sgtmeatsauce1
2013 SHO +pp
I have 70,000 on a 2013 pp sho, I get a crunching grinding sound sometimes right before it comes to a complete stop, I have a small hum from 15 mph to infinity, I thought it was my new GMAX RS Summer tires and never gave it much thought till with the window down and radio off I heard the crunching sound.....any ideas? Other then the sound the car runs strong has no physical problems but the sound.....
Sgtmeatsauce1
2013 SHO +pp
PTU has 20,000 on it and I just changed fluid, new struts, strut mounts are good, just had new tires put on and wheel alignment no mention of issues there. Oddly after complaining about the sound on the forum, I not heard them in 2 days! Thinking the rain acted as a **** or something....
ticoscen
SHO Member
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SHO Axle Stub Bearings: I see some are listed "not for SHO" on ebay and some are. Big Q: Are the SHO specific bearings heavier duty / larger internally? EG: Stronger.
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