Activating the RDU coupler.

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Bluezone

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I've been thinking after my drag racing experience yesterday. What would it take to pre-activate the rear differential coupler on take off. So I have some questions and I'm looking for useful input. The idea is to engage the all-wheel drive system before wheel slip is detected. Hopefully improving the launch by providing four wheels for contact.
First does anyone know if the rear coupler is a direct electromagnetic coupler or is it a electromagnet coupler with a incline ramp and roller system? If it's the ramp and roller style, this would explain the time to activation on take off. You need rotation order for the ramps to lock up. In which case what I'm thinking about will not work.

From what I understand the coupler works on a 12-volt system with a relay sending 12 volts to activate the electromagnet. Pulse width modulation is used to achieve a semi locked condition to transfer torque from the drive shaft to the RDU. Also I read somewhere that maximum torque capacity of the stock clutch pack is something around 780 pounds torque. So you probably only want to apply roughly 75% of Max torque capacity. Now on launch, the engine is only turning around 2000 RPM. From looking at log data and different Dyno charts I would guess the engines only producing roughly a 150 lb torque. This is due to spool up not really taking place at this point. With my engine with the downpipes installed I've only got maybe 2 to 3 lb a boost at that that engine speed. When you go through the gear ratios you end up with roughly 1860 pounds of torque available. It must be remembered that that number is divided by 2 and there are losses going through the PTU and rear drive system. Now front drive system probably has a 15% loss from crank power. Whatever losses are incurred by the rear drive system are derived from what is left over from the front wheel drive system and then its own losses. So I'm guessing roughly 790 pounds of torque at the front differential available to be transferred through the rest of the powertrain to the rear differential. So knock another 10% off that and you end up with something like 712 lb of torque available with rear wheels with full lock up from a standing start at 2000 RPM. No wonder they use pulse width modulation. That's why I figure only a half second of torque loading for the 2 seconds relay run time. One and a half of those seconds is wasted at the lights.
Now what I'm thinking is setting up a system of electrical switches and possibly some sort of electronic black Box that contains a timer and possibly a oscillator to provide a pulsing signal.
The idea is to have an arm / disarm switch, a momentary contact switch mounted at the steering wheel plus the black box wired to a relay to send power to the electromagnet on the rear differential coupler.
The purpose of the timer in the black box is to set length of time for activation.
In operation you would hit the arm switch, pull up to the staging Lanes. When staged press the activation switch. The black box would countdown a time length of 1.5-2 seconds of activation. During this time a static or pulsed signal is be sent to the coupler to lock it up for takeoff. Problem with using a static signal is full torque is sent to all wheels. With a pulse signal the relay would be sending an on/off oscillating signal to prevent total lockup.
The second version of this does not send the pulsed signal to the coupler electromagnet. Instead you're sending a pulse signal to one of the wheel speed sensors to mimic wheel spin. This would be hopefully cause the system to automatically apply torque to the rear coupler Via interpreted wheel slip. The problem with this is that with the CAN bus system this may be interpreted as a system fault.

Anyone have any input or ideas to add to this?
 
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Bluezone

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The RDU already does engage before you spin. Actually it engages before you even start rolling. Actually, it engages before you even get up on the torque converter. Exhibit A - one of my 1/4 mile logs showing AWD command signal (in white):
View attachment 81679
With the ramp and roller it doesn't lock till it moves (speed differential). So while the drivetrain can command the coupler to lock up, it still takes movement for the actual lockup to happen. This is because the roller has to travel up the ramp to lock the clutches together.
 
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stripSHO

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With the ramp and roller it doesn't lock till it moves (speed differential). So while the drivetrain can command the coupler to lock up, it still takes movement for the actual lockup to happen. This is because the roller has to travel up the ramp to lock the clutches together.
roller ramp doesn't seem like an entirely accurate description to me though maybe I'm wrong. https://jtkmarketing.s3.amazonaws.c...-_intelligent_tourque_controlled_coupling.pdf
But let me play along and ask how many revolution(s) you guys think it takes before it's actually transferring torque?
The moral of the story is that RDU design/control/engagement time isn't the reason you can't 60'.
 

Bluezone

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roller ramp doesn't seem like an entirely accurate description to me though maybe I'm wrong. https://jtkmarketing.s3.amazonaws.c...-_intelligent_tourque_controlled_coupling.pdf
But let me play along and ask how many revolution(s) you guys think it takes before it's actually transferring torque?
The moral of the story is that RDU design/control/engagement time isn't the reason you can't 60'.
Ain't nobody here playing with that attitude you're showing.
Here's a picture from the document you provided. Circled is the control mechanism label. Notice they call it a control cam. A cam is it inclined ramp or a ramp, notice that there is a ball or a roller in the diagram as well. Thus roller and ramp. Different names same idea.
Moral of the story is roller and ramp takes time to engage. How much depends on the design. It could take anywhere from a half a revolution to a couple of millimetres. Regardless it is not instantaneous. Nearly instantaneously, possibly, but the time it takes to actually still Lock leads to time for the front wheels to start to break away.
Moral of this story is. Nobody here is blaming my bad driving habits on a mechanical deficiency. I am simply looking for a way to help with it. We're blaming the mechanical deficiency on the mechanical deficiency. Pull your head out of that hole you have it stuck in and stop equating two unrelated things to one result. You're making a spurless argument.
Plus my driving deficiency is based exact execution of your suggestions of how to launch.

And congratulations you're the first person I've ever put on an ignore list. Lol
 

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stripSHO

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Ain't nobody here playing with that attitude you're showing.
Here's a picture from the document you provided. Circled is the control mechanism label. Notice they call it a control cam. A cam is it inclined ramp or a ramp, notice that there is a ball or a roller in the diagram as well. Thus roller and ramp. Different names same idea.
Moral of the story is roller and ramp takes time to engage. How much depends on the design. It could take anywhere from a half a revolution to a couple of millimetres. Regardless it is not instantaneous. Near, possibly but the time it takes to actually still Lock leads time for the front wheels to start to break away.
Moral of this story is. Nobody here is blaming my bad driving habits on a mechanical deficiency. I am simply looking for a way to help with it. We're blaming the mechanical deficiency on the mechanical deficiency. Pull your head out of that hole you have it stuck in and stop equating two unrelated things to one result. You're making a spurless argument.
Plus my driving deficiency is based exact execution of your suggestions of how to launch.

And congratulations you're the first person I've ever put on an ignore list. Lol
Ok snowflake. I said I may be wrong and I stand corrected. But you're out of your mind if you think that's an issue. Just trying to save you from yourself. Good luck in your endeavors to engineer a bunch of useless solutions to problems that don't exist. Make sure and block what I showed you on command signal to the AWD from your memory so you can go waste your life developing that custom black box that accomplishes nothing.

Let's see- when you launch, you're brake torquing so long that you push all the way through the beams and red light, playing f*ck f*ck with the gas pedal trying to hit an arbitrary RPM and throwing tons of heat into the torque converter along the way. When I launch, I'm up on the converter literally less than a second and leave at full stall speed and probably twice as much torque. No wheel hop, no traction complaints. Just one momentary screech of agony from my front tires as the weight transfers off of them and I'm gone. If you think what you're doing even remotely resembles anything I've suggested, then maybe you ought to come to Michigan and let me teach you a lesson I call "getting gapped three bus lengths by a stock SHO."

Despite you blocking me, I'll still be rooting for ya Rudy. When you finally realize you have problems that won't be fixed by add-on parts or reinventing the drivetrain, I'll be there for you. Good luck
 

skyshadow07

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I found, at one time a read diff LSD for the same diff we have BUT when asking the manufacture if it would fit into our diff, they said they do not know. It would be a $700ish gamble.
 

Ecoboost_xsport

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yeah I remember that, an Eaton one right? Looked promising but hard to tell if it would fit or not.

Meanwhile, I've got the diff out the front the other day...
20210824 170025
20210824 170039
I found, at one time a read diff LSD for the same diff we have BUT when asking the manufacture if it would fit into our diff, they said they do not know. It would be a $700ish gamble.
 

PaulTAutoX

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Does anybody have actual video of the tires? Might be interesting seeing when power actually gets to the road, front vs. rear.
 

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