AC Compressor

[SHODr1ver]

Ok, this is actually my first post here. I have a 1993 hunter green MTX. Well, I was going to get the car detailed out Wednesday my car made a really funny noise and then one of the belts started to squeal. I turned off my AC and all was well. After they got done with my car, I tunred on the AC and the car just sounded like it was running rough, but it ran fine. I stop and I go shop for a second and come back out try the AC again, no noise, but the AC was blowing hot air.

Ok, so my AC Compressor is shot, no longer usable. I get my car to the mechanic the very next day and he looked at it.

I need a new AC Compressor and other stuff. Total just shy of $1,000. I was wondering if the regular Taurus and the SHO use the same AC Compressor. If that's the case, I can get a used one and still run my little baby. I still will run it no matter what. It's going into storage for when I'm in basic training for the Air Force.

 

[Mr Anonymous]

That mechanic is screwing you. Go to AutoZone.com and look at the pricing on a rebuilt compressor with clutch, drier assy, and orifice tube. Under $350 in parts and should only cost you 2-3 hours labor if you can't do it yourself.

And no, the regular SLO Taurus and SHO use different compressors (FS-10 in SLO's, 10P15F in our SHO's).

<small>[ August 23, 2003, 02:43 PM: Message edited by: SHOooo ]</small>

 

[SHODr1ver]

Ok, I talked to my mechanic in full detail. The reason why it's going to cost so much is because he's converting my R12 to R34 to protect the new compressor when it gets put in. So... there goes!

 

[SW SHO]

Still a rip off. The conversion kit is like max $40.00 bucks and if you buy all the stuff mentioned above and have the system fully evacuated and remove all the old r-12, then replace the parts that ARE needed, I don't see $1000.00 being very accurate.

Shop, shop, shop... even shop for a different mechanic who will do just the labor if you buy the parts.

 

[Mr Anonymous]

SHODr1ver:
Ok, I talked to my mechanic in full detail. The reason why it's going to cost so much is because he's converting my R12 to R34 to protect the new compressor when it gets put in. So... there goes!

Yeah, "so there goes"... a mechanic who is a shameless thief... cuss

Click here to see what ONE place charges for the R12 to R134A retrofit kit. I've seen them as cheap as $19.99 at some of the larger discount department stores.

I've taken a moment to assemble the following information for you:

1. Factory Air P/N 57365, Rebuilt A/C Compressor w/clutch, $215.99 (AutoZone.com)
2. Factory Air P/N 55642, New Accumulator/Drier, $80.99 (AutoZone.com)
3. Factory Air P/N 38639, Orifice/Expansion Tube, $4.99 (AutoZone.com)
4. Factory Air P/N 26242, R12-to-R134A Retrofit Kit (Nippon 10P), $29.88 (PartsAmerica.com)
5. Interdynamics P/N SD134, R134A Refrigerant, 14 oz., $12.48 (PartsAmerica.com)

So, based on the above prices, all of which I just got off of the internet (and some of which, like refrigerant, I know can be found cheaper locally), you're total cost in parts/supplies would be $344.33 (plus any taxes, shipping, etc.) WHICH INCLUDES PARTS/SUPPLIES FOR COMPLETING THE R12 TO R134A CONVERSION.

Now, for the labor, according to Ford 'Service Labor Time Standards' (SLTS), which is the guide Ford uses to determine what to charge for labor, R&R'ing the compressor for a '93 3.2L SHO is 1.7 hours, plus .5 hours to evacuate/flush/recharge the A/C system, plus 1.4 hours to replace the accumulator/drier, plus .3 hours to replace the orifice. That's a total of 3.9 hours labor, which is what a Ford dealer would charge. I still figure 'real time' replacement/recharge, etc. at about 2-3 hours as mentioned above, which is more along the lines of what a private service/mechanic would take to complete the work.

I hope this has helped you come to understand that this 'mechanic' to whom you're been speaking is trying to take advantage of you!

Please take the time to shop around for a better price, armed with the knowledge of what the parts/supplies would cost you at retail (they will obviously be paying less than retail). I would recommend trying to find a place that specializes in automotive A/C systems (they are common down south, but there are usually still one or two near most major cities), or a competent garage which will let you bring your own parts or agree to charge you the same or less for those parts than you would pay at retail.

Good luck, and keep us posted on your progress!

 

[SHO_Driver]

Nice screen name

I'd get a second opinion. Your problem could be a shredded clutch or bad pulley bearing. If so, they can be replaced without losing any precious R12.

 

[Rob94]

He is and is NOT getting ripped. Mechanics charge LIST price for parts.

 

[SHODr1ver]

Rob94:
He is and is NOT getting ripped. Mechanics charge LIST price for parts.

SHE SHE SHE! Oops, I should mention that I'm a she. Hehehe.

My mechanic has outshined other mechanics in the area. I can come up with a bunch of times when he's quoted me less and got the problem fixed.

The way my mechanic explained it is... he'd have to get the compressor, and there would be filters he'd need to buy and something else, I think it was the accumulator. He'd have to clean the system and rid it of all R12. Plus parts, and plus labor.

Then again, a lot of times his quotes are higher than the actual bill itself. So who knows. I just know I like my mechanic a lot.

 

[rangerj]

SHODr1ver,

If you have a mechanic who is fair with you, you trust him (or her), stands behind his (or her) work, and is honest, stick with him(or her).

The price you were quoted is not unreasonable, and if the mechanic is willing to adjust it downward if the job did not take as long as he anticipated or parts were not as expensive as was anticipated, that is a plus.

Unless you are a "purist" about maintaining your SHO as 100% OEM, then you are best off to convert to R-134-a. Actually some 93 SHOs were R-134-a as produced by the factory.

Your mechanic is right about the parts he intends to replace, that is the compressor, the accumulator/dryer, and the oriface line. He is also correct in that all the R-12 and R-12 oil needs to be cleaned out of the condenser and evaporator core.

In fact, the compressor rebuilder will not warrant the compressor unless this is done!

You also want to make sure that the "O" rings are all replaced, and that the garter springs are replaced where necessary. The new lines should have new garter springs and new "O" rings, so this should not be a problem.

If you are going to put the car in storage you may want to wait till you get back from your basic training to get the job done. This will give you time to gather up the money (food for thought).

Could you do the job yourself and save some money on the parts and labor? Yes. Do you have the time, the skills, the desire, and the tools? If you do want to do it yourself let us know, we'll help you through it. If not, stick with the mechanic you know and trust. rangerj

 

[SHODr1ver]

rangerj:
SHODr1ver,
If you are going to put the car in storage you may want to wait till you get back from your basic training to get the job done. This will give you time to gather up the money (food for thought).

Yeah, I have the money. I'd rather not spend it. But I do have it. I've worked for two years and spent hardly anything on the car because it's been such a strong runner. My parents are going to make sure it gets the mechanic when I'm gone, and when I get back it will be as good as new. And I won't have to worry about it when I'm on leave. Thanks for the advice though.

 

[rangerj]

SHODR1VER,

Ah good ole boot camp, er Basic Training. Three hots and a cot, and no worries. Except for the freaking drill Sgts. But then there is $.05 beer at the e-club when you are not on "fire-watch", or K-P.

When you get to the weapons training remember to hold any shoulder weapon tight into your shoulder, or you will have some unpleasant bruising (and unsightly). Godspeed and best of luck, rangerj

 

[projectSHO89]

rangerj,

You must have done BCT back when the M-14 was still in use! Nickel beer? Man, you are ancient!

The M-16's recoil is negligible. I remember my DI holding the butt against his chin and against his groin to demonstrate that there was nothing to be afraid of from the M-16's recoil. (1976)

Steve

 

[rangerj]

Ah Steve,

I acually went through basic with the M-1, you know the 11 lb, gas powered, clip fed, .30 cal. semi automatic, yadda yadda yadda. Fort Cambell KY., 1967. Geranamo!

The M-16s and M-14s were needed over seas. We got to qualify with M-16s at the end of Basic. If I remember right the Mattel company logo was on the but of the rifle!

Ancient? finger rangerj

 

[Nook]

Pretty steep, sounds like he was just ballparking you. There's a shop here that will completely replace the compressor, hard lines, dryer, coolant, for $699.

N

 

[79pace]

Put the pump in yourself. Took me less than 2 hours to do mine last night and I have never done one on an SHO before. Wasnt too bad at all. Then all you need to do it take it and have it filled by a pro.

 

[93SHO_2]

79pace, how did you evacuate the system?

I'm more concerned with injury and damage than the ozone.

 

[rangerj]

93SHO 2,

To evacuate the A/C system, safely, use a guage set and allow the refrigerant to be vacuumed out.
Legally it should be recovered.

That having been said, you could remove the low pressure switch, and then remove the schrader valve. Or you could release a little at a time by depressing the schrader valve.
Safety is a concern. PROTECT YOUR EYES. rangerj

 

[Hewills]

Would this be the same on a '95?
My air started blowing hot and we took it in they also said it would be close to $1300.
If this is the case, I am going to get my husband to fix it!!

 

[rangerj]

Hewills,

You're going to get your husband to fix it??? What happened to "I am Woman"?

You know they make tools that will fit your hands.
SHO&VETTE, BIZZY, and the rest of you lady SHO drivers that do your own wrenching chime in here.

If YOU and your husband want to fix your A/C let us know, and we'll walk you through it, right Biz?
rangerj

 

[Nook]

If your compressor seized, that is a fine price for what is needed:

compressor, high pressure line, low pressure line and dryer, clean out the evaporator and condensor, replace coolant, installation labor for all the hardware.

N